Your math is good.
Your math is good.
We all have to start somewhere. The journey is all the more impressive by our humble beginnings.
http://led.linear1.org/1led.wiz for the lazy man's resistor calculator!
http://forums.thecustomsabershop.com...e-to-Ohm-s-Law for getting resistor values the right way!
That was a thought that occurred to me, as I normally do that with single-dice LEDs. I wasn't sure if it applied equally to multi-dice LEDs in the same way. Guess I don't have to wait for resistors to come in, lol.
Thanks again, guys. I appreciate it much more than I can express.
Okay, I hate to doublepost but a new issue has arisen. Now whenever I turn on the saber, the swings start triggering like crazy. What the heck is going on with this saber [other than its incredible need to not work with me]?
Here's a video of it doing its thing.
//Nano Biscotte LYRA V3
vol=4
drive=940
offd=200
deep=15000
resume=0
lc=400
hs=220
ls=50
i=57
shmrd=210
shmrp=6
shmrr=13
swing=200
clash=150
qon=0
qoff=0
flks=5
flkd=20
These settings are what I use in all my sabers (other than Drive changes), so it shouldn't be acting up. Is it because of the LED? Yes, they're wired in parallel so that's...... I have no idea what's going on here.
Low battery, or vibration from the speaker. Those are my top two guesses. Charge the battery to full and see if the problem goes away. If not, you may need to either move the board further from the speaker or adjust the swing sensitivity down. If you adjust the volume down to 1 and the saber stops with the extra swings, then it's probably vibration from the speaker.
Each saber is different, and requires some tweaks to get the actions dialed in properly.
We all have to start somewhere. The journey is all the more impressive by our humble beginnings.
http://led.linear1.org/1led.wiz for the lazy man's resistor calculator!
http://forums.thecustomsabershop.com...e-to-Ohm-s-Law for getting resistor values the right way!
Alright, I'll charge the battery. It's been a while since I've done that anyway. That's likely the problem. If not, I'll post again.
Thanks again, SS!
The NB (and other boards) start exhibiting odd behavior when the voltage drops too low. With a 2A draw for your two GG dice, the voltage from your li-ion is going to drop even faster. It's something to be aware of, and it's why my first recommendation for odd behavior is nearly always "charge the battery" before opening the saber.
We all have to start somewhere. The journey is all the more impressive by our humble beginnings.
http://led.linear1.org/1led.wiz for the lazy man's resistor calculator!
http://forums.thecustomsabershop.com...e-to-Ohm-s-Law for getting resistor values the right way!
I'll definitely keep that in mind. Thankfully I don't do serious trooping or anything. Would the runtimes be better with a setup like this with a PC?
With a PC, 7.4v li-ion pack of similar mAh capacity, and running the two dice in series, yes. You'd get about 2.5 hours per charge vs. 1.5 hours with the current setup.
Of course, if you intend to do serious trooping, you should really build the saber with removable battery packs and carry a spare. For normal saberplay, conventions, etc., 1.5 hours of runtime is usually more than enough.
We all have to start somewhere. The journey is all the more impressive by our humble beginnings.
http://led.linear1.org/1led.wiz for the lazy man's resistor calculator!
http://forums.thecustomsabershop.com...e-to-Ohm-s-Law for getting resistor values the right way!
That's what I thought. Though neither are really anything to scoff at, given what's being run (seriously, tri-rebels are way brighter than I could have possibly imagined).
I personally have no intention on seriously trooping. I plan on dueling with some friends (building a buddy of mine a staff in the next month or two. Both of us are excited), and I'm more than sure that an hour and a half is plenty of time.
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