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Thread: 1st Build - Help and Suggestions Wanted

  1. #11

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    1. Certainly possible. Depending on how you arrange things as to how easy it'll be.
    2. 3.7v source voltage from your li-ion, 3.2v forward voltage for the LED, 1000mA current for the LED. The calculator in my sig will recommend a 1 ohm 2 watt resistor. In practice, you can get by without one for that particular LED and battery combo. It's a little safer with the resistor, but you can go either way.
    3. I don't see anything missing offhand.

    If you intend to paint with anything opaque, then the media blasting is a waste. For clear or translucent paint jobs, it might be worthwhile. If you just want to rough up the surface prior to painting, then going over the pieces with 200 or 400 grit sandpaper is sufficient (and far cheaper). See the following thread for painting and baking parts. It's how I do all my paint jobs, and they're quite durable. http://forums.thecustomsabershop.com...aking-Tutorial
    We all have to start somewhere. The journey is all the more impressive by our humble beginnings.

    http://led.linear1.org/1led.wiz for the lazy man's resistor calculator!
    http://forums.thecustomsabershop.com...e-to-Ohm-s-Law for getting resistor values the right way!

  2. #12

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    Quote Originally Posted by Silver Serpent View Post
    1. Certainly possible. Depending on how you arrange things as to how easy it'll be.
    2. 3.7v source voltage from your li-ion, 3.2v forward voltage for the LED, 1000mA current for the LED. The calculator in my sig will recommend a 1 ohm 2 watt resistor. In practice, you can get by without one for that particular LED and battery combo. It's a little safer with the resistor, but you can go either way.
    3. I don't see anything missing offhand.

    If you intend to paint with anything opaque, then the media blasting is a waste. For clear or translucent paint jobs, it might be worthwhile. If you just want to rough up the surface prior to painting, then going over the pieces with 200 or 400 grit sandpaper is sufficient (and far cheaper). See the following thread for painting and baking parts. It's how I do all my paint jobs, and they're quite durable. http://forums.thecustomsabershop.com...aking-Tutorial
    Thanks for all the help! Sanding sounds like the best option. Halloween 2014 will be sweet!

  3. #13

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    I really do appreciate all this help, Serpent. Just to let you know, this is going to be the tip of the crown on my Star Wars: The Old Republic Jedi Guardian costume.


    Purchases have been made, but waited too long and the sound board is unavailable. So, I will have time to play with the body until the heart is available or I can find it somewhere else.
    Last edited by Echo4Delta; 01-08-2014 at 01:03 PM.

  4. #14

  5. #15

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    The diagram looks pretty good. I didn't check out your resistor values though.

    As an exercise, you should try redo-ing that diagram, laying out the parts as they would roughly be placed within your saber. it will help you get a better idea of what you would need to do wiring wise.
    TCSS MODERATOR
    All n00bs READ these first (PLEASE)!!!:
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    "Yeah, yeah, I've heard it all before... you want blindingly bright, super loud, running 1138 blinkies off of the cheapest sound card you can find AND you want all of it to run on a battery the size of a dime, and run for a very, VERY long time. That one cracks me up every time..."
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  6. #16

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    Luckily I live near Fry's Electronics and can get resistors. So, I already purchased the stuff I need from the store already and some extra connectors just in case for length issues.

    I can do a schematic, but its just a few days until I get the parts and I can lay them out side by side to the body and shoot a pic in here. However, i just purchased the prewired latching (because the Nano is sold out!) AND momentary switch which BOTH come with the variable resistor (because I will want to practice my blade techniques in the dark and scare the ducks), so I should be good right? Oh, and I got the 1ohm 2w resistor for the LED safety feed.

  7. #17

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    Looks like you're in good shape.
    We all have to start somewhere. The journey is all the more impressive by our humble beginnings.

    http://led.linear1.org/1led.wiz for the lazy man's resistor calculator!
    http://forums.thecustomsabershop.com...e-to-Ohm-s-Law for getting resistor values the right way!

  8. #18

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    IMG_20140121_152838_734.jpg

    Lookie what I just got! No light yet cause the latching switch isn't here yet. Praying for the Nano B to come soon though.

  9. #19

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    Ok, another request for help regarding wiring. I've attempted to avoid having to do a lot of soldering (New to it) and decided to go 'pre wire' on what I can. So, the question(s)..

    I've noted the gauges on the wire vary. What do you guys think is the optimal wire to use for the 2W bass speaker?

    Also, I went with the MHS speaker mount V3 for the same speaker and I've did a test fit and it looks like it needs to be forced into place. Is this normal? If so, any recommended techniques?

  10. #20

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    Great thread. I'm about to build my first saber, and this thread has answered a lot of my question.

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