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Thread: What am I doing wrong- can't get blade to light up? (pics)

  1. #11

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    Ha! I figured it out. Now I know the difference between wiring a circuit in parallel and wiring it in series (after spending a while online and doing many Google searches). Hopefully someone will read this some day and learn from my foibles. Now I have to tear everything apart and rewire the battery pack to the rest of the circuit. This time I will connect a positive and negative wire from each pack, and the other positive and negative will feed the rest of the circuit.

    I'll post pictures of what I imagine will be a much brighter lightsaber after it gets the right amount of juice.

  2. #12

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    I have the same exact problem with my first Luxeon Tri-rebel(GGW) saber. My looks just like yours. Very dim. I got the Corbin battle blade with double wrap. It's only bright at the bottom near the LED star. It fades quickly. There's a thin white line in the middle of the blade, that's the "core" I suppose. I don't know what I've done wrong. I have a Spark Mini board. I don't know if I replace the Corbin film with cellophane would make much different.

    I've seen other's Luxeon tri-rebel saber has much fuller blade. I don't if it's the camera over expose the blade or not.


    Quote Originally Posted by Matimeo View Post
    Ha! I figured it out. Now I know the difference between wiring a circuit in parallel and wiring it in series (after spending a while online and doing many Google searches). Hopefully someone will read this some day and learn from my foibles. Now I have to tear everything apart and rewire the battery pack to the rest of the circuit. This time I will connect a positive and negative wire from each pack, and the other positive and negative will feed the rest of the circuit.

    I'll post pictures of what I imagine will be a much brighter lightsaber after it gets the right amount of juice.

  3. #13

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    Show us a picture of your wiring. You may have it wired incorrectly, as Matimeo did. Tri-Rebel GGWs shouldn't be dim with any blade type, if they're being run properly.
    We all have to start somewhere. The journey is all the more impressive by our humble beginnings.

    http://led.linear1.org/1led.wiz for the lazy man's resistor calculator!
    http://forums.thecustomsabershop.com...e-to-Ohm-s-Law for getting resistor values the right way!

  4. #14

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    Here's the wiring pic. The black is ground, green and yellow is positive on the led.

    photo.JPG

  5. #15

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    I don't have any experience with that particular board myself. It looks like it's wired correctly according to the manual. Check the drive settings for each of the LED channels. They may be set too low to fully illuminate the blade.

    Also, check to verify that your batteries are fully charged, and that your LED optics are seated properly.
    We all have to start somewhere. The journey is all the more impressive by our humble beginnings.

    http://led.linear1.org/1led.wiz for the lazy man's resistor calculator!
    http://forums.thecustomsabershop.com...e-to-Ohm-s-Law for getting resistor values the right way!

  6. #16

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    Wait so you have a driver board? Why use a resistor at all? Am I wrong?
    NOMING YOUR POWER CABLES SINCE 2007

    MHS #1 "Coppertop" CFX Neopixel
    MR 616 "Joe Jedi"
    LDM converted Korbanth LS6 (Hero with PC 1.6 and FOC)
    Vintage graflex ANH - probably staying static
    Disney Savi Saber Peace and Justice (experience was worth it)

  7. #17

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    The Spark is direct driven. It shouldn't need a resistor because it runs off a single cell, unless of course you are running a red die.
    Last edited by Ty_Bomber; 01-02-2014 at 12:09 PM.

  8. #18

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    Two different posters, with similar problems. No resistors appear to be used with the NEC board.
    We all have to start somewhere. The journey is all the more impressive by our humble beginnings.

    http://led.linear1.org/1led.wiz for the lazy man's resistor calculator!
    http://forums.thecustomsabershop.com...e-to-Ohm-s-Law for getting resistor values the right way!

  9. #19

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    Ah yes, didn't notice the thread jack lol
    NOMING YOUR POWER CABLES SINCE 2007

    MHS #1 "Coppertop" CFX Neopixel
    MR 616 "Joe Jedi"
    LDM converted Korbanth LS6 (Hero with PC 1.6 and FOC)
    Vintage graflex ANH - probably staying static
    Disney Savi Saber Peace and Justice (experience was worth it)

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