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Thread: Need Wiring Advice to Fix Friends Saber

  1. #1

    Default Need Wiring Advice to Fix Friends Saber

    Hi guys, Long time not chat but ran into an issue and needed some advice. So my friend just got back home from a little whiles away and besides hi the first thing he tells me is that his saber broke (and UltraSaber) and asked if I could fix it. I told him I would try but he asked for a tri-rebel LED _Blue-Blue-Blue. I have not wired one of these before but I now it requires one of the panasonic batteries. I also made this diagram of two options that I am looking at. It is a simple set up... Battery - switch - LED. My questions are
    1) Do I need a resistor or a buck puck?
    2) Can I use a momentary switch or do I need a locking one.
    3) I searched but could not find a soldering diagram for the tri rebel can somebody please point me in the direction of one.
    4) does my Diagram work
    5) What would you recomend... Battery in holder or just a Battery with the MWS Connector?

    Thanks for all the info.saberpic.jpg

  2. #2

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    1. With a single li-ion you'll have to use a resistor. If you use a 7.4 li-ion pack, you can use a buckpuck.
    2. Latching switch is necessary with that setup.
    3. It depends on how you want to wire it up. You can wire each of the dice in parallel, or all of them in series. I'd recommend parallel for a single li-ion setup.
    4. What you have there is more of a layout, and not a wiring diagram.
    5. Depends on your battery charger. If your charger is for individual cells, then use the battery holder so you can remove the batteries easily. If you want to do in-hilt charging, then I'd go with the MWS option.
    We all have to start somewhere. The journey is all the more impressive by our humble beginnings.

    http://led.linear1.org/1led.wiz for the lazy man's resistor calculator!
    http://forums.thecustomsabershop.com...e-to-Ohm-s-Law for getting resistor values the right way!

  3. #3

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    Hi Silver Serpent, Thanks again for always enlightening and educating. I think I made a proper wiring diagram, does this look right to you.

    Wire Diagram.jpg

    My only other question is should I put a dummy cell in there or should I just use two high capacity batteries?
    Thank you again.

  4. #4

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    your diagram says that you are using a 2-AA battery holder for an 18650 cell....those cells are too large to fit in one of those (the AA equivalent would be a 14500 cell), you'd be better off just getting the pre-wired 18650 and skip the 2-AA holder altogether.

    Got a question? Start Here. Have you tried the Thread Index yet? Most questions can be answered there.

  5. #5

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Jay-gon Jinn View Post
    your diagram says that you are using a 2-AA battery holder for an 18650 cell....those cells are too large to fit in one of those (the AA equivalent would be a 14500 cell), you'd be better off just getting the pre-wired 18650 and skip the 2-AA holder altogether.
    Makes sense Jinn my only issue with those is that I only have one charger so I'd only be able to charge one saber at a time but oh well I'll just have to buy another charger or spare battery. But other than that does everything else looks right to you? And two final questions.... 1) what type of resister should I buy and 2) What does a buck puck really do and why / do / should or should not get one.

    Thanks again

  6. #6

    Default

    Diagram looks fine. You can find an appropriate resistor value using the link in my signature.

    A buckpuck will replace the use of a resistor, and it will provide the appropriate amount of power to your LEDs. Buckpucks are more efficient than resistors, but need a minimum of 5v to operate. Using one will give you a longer runtime on a single battery charge. I wouldn't use a buckpuck unless I had a 7.4v li-ion pack.

    Buckpucks have a couple other disadvantages. They're significantly more expensive than resistors, and they also take up more of your precious room inside the hilt.
    We all have to start somewhere. The journey is all the more impressive by our humble beginnings.

    http://led.linear1.org/1led.wiz for the lazy man's resistor calculator!
    http://forums.thecustomsabershop.com...e-to-Ohm-s-Law for getting resistor values the right way!

  7. #7

    Default

    Thanks again Silver and others.
    But Silver is there anything else I should be aware of... I have been reading and getting confused of 1500mA and overdriving it all seems so daunting. I am just looking for a simple bright Tri-Reble lol, so I should be good to go with that set-up. Thanks again for all the help.

    Quote Originally Posted by Silver Serpent View Post
    Diagram looks fine. You can find an appropriate resistor value using the link in my signature.

    A buckpuck will replace the use of a resistor, and it will provide the appropriate amount of power to your LEDs. Buckpucks are more efficient than resistors, but need a minimum of 5v to operate. Using one will give you a longer runtime on a single battery charge. I wouldn't use a buckpuck unless I had a 7.4v li-ion pack.

    Buckpucks have a couple other disadvantages. They're significantly more expensive than resistors, and they also take up more of your precious room inside the hilt.

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