"Frosting the Blade"

[Yoiaholic]

Not to nit pick James, but I think countdown is right for the 3/4 inch blade. The issue is that you lose a ton of light before you get to the tip with the smaller ID. With a 10 degree lens any blades longer than 36 inches are MUCH dimmer at the tip (not the dark spot) of the blade.

I tried a 5 degree lens and had better results with the narrower tube. Its like this count, if you don't want to go out of your way to get a 3 degree lens then the 5 degree is fine. If you can get the 3 degree its the way to go.

[james3]

10 Degree??? When did that come in to play?

Now I'm confused Yoi, I thought we were talking 3's and 5's.

Seriously, sorry if I wasn't clear on that. When I did my 3/4" blade tests a while back I noticed that a 10 degree did have some issues. I figure that 5's are in pretty much everyones toolbox ready to go and I am not sure that 2 degrees difference is going to be noticeable. Sounds like I need to give it a try.

[DACOTA]

Did you not read the very first friggin post?

yes. i did but i asked a question, thank you very much

so should i do this to a mr darth maul or not give your opinion or [whatever]

[Ryma Mara]

What about that window etching stuff.

Thay make a kit where I think its a liquid type thing, what about diping the tube in that?

[james3]

I think that works on glass.

Might be worth a try though.

Anyway, I used it with the 800-1000 sanded on the outside and used just a slight wrap of film inside. That is what you see when the boy has his Jedi costume and yellow blade. It was very nice and even with a tad of Corbin's core.

I am actually working on another blade and will throw that up when I get done. Other things of course have been a priority over that with the group we are going to have here in the next few days.

[987654321a]

jeeze i tried sanding the outside as i dont have a dowel to put sandpaper on it and sand the inside but im such a retard that i could have kept my blade new and just used some cellophane from michaels or something, the diffuser broke just so you know. now my blade is worthless and all scratched up

[james3]

What grit did ya use? It isnt worthless buddy, I have had some great effects with just sanded blades minus the diffuser.

[Firebird21]

(This is the right Topic )

Here's a trick that may help you out a bit...


Disclaimer: I have not tried this myself. I just dreamt it up.



Get a dowel (whatever size will fit inside your power drill)

Take a piece of sand paper and cut it to 2”x4” ish.

Staple one 2” end of the sand paper to one end of the dowel and wrap the rest of it loosely around the dowel.

Put the other side of the dowel into the drill.

Insert the dowel into the PolyC and pull the trigger. The loose end should sand the inside of the tube for you. If it doesn’t seem to provide enough pressure, cut the paper longer. (2x6 or something)

Move the dowel up and down the tube slowly to get an even pattern.


If the dowel seems too long to work with you can always cut it in half and sand half the tube and switch to the other end to finish it.

[Ryma Mara]

I would use body work sand paper that has the stickey adheasive side. that way your not gonna have a staple groving in the blade.

[Dregan]

The staple would be covered by the next layer (or three) of sandpaper, thereby preventing a groove. It's a good idea. I think I might try it.

I would not use adhesive-backer sand paper, as you're most likely going to be sticking this on a dowel rod, it won't adhere that well, and fall off. (not enough smooth surface aread to stick to on the rod)