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Thread: Illuminated AV Momentary switch, Hasbro board and accents

  1. #11

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    The way you wired the LED is correct for the econoboard.
    The LED positive goes to the battery positive and the LED negative goes to the LED output on the board.

    The problem is that the econoboard was engineered to drive 3 or 4 standard LEDs, so it is not giving much current at all.
    To increase the current to the LED we normally use the PNP transistor wired as shown in this thread:

    http://forums.thecustomsabershop.com...ght=econoboard

    The thread is veeery long, but you can stick with the diagrams in the first post, they are correct.

    The transistor you need is a TIP42C or equivalent.
    It can give you all the current you need or, in other words, it can give you all the current your batteries are able to provide

  2. #12

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    Sweet! Thanks! I'll hook it up tonight.
    ROBODOC

    That which does not kill us makes us stronger.
    -Friedrich Wilhelm Nietzsche

  3. #13

    Default Two more questions


    #1: I think my brain is turning to mush. My LED momentary switch is lighting nicely, but my other accent is not. Any ideas (see wiring diagram).




    #2: Except for the accent LED, everything works with 4 AA batteries. In order to save some space, I want to use 2 Li-ion batteries (14500). However, when I hook up the Li-ions, I get sound, but the main LED (Lux III) flickers. In fact, it seems to pulse in time with the hum from the sound card! What the heck?

    Any help is appreciated.
    ROBODOC

    That which does not kill us makes us stronger.
    -Friedrich Wilhelm Nietzsche

  4. #14

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    maybe you are giving so much power to the card. Not an expert but, can it support 7,4 v instead the 6 V you gave with the 4xAA?

  5. #15

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    That's a good point Arsies. I'm not sure that would affect the main LED, but I seem to recall from other forum post that these Hasbro boards can only handle (or is it put out?) so many volts.
    ROBODOC

    That which does not kill us makes us stronger.
    -Friedrich Wilhelm Nietzsche

  6. #16
    Jedi Initiate Vazan Maceu's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Robodoc View Post
    That's a good point Arsies. I'm not sure that would affect the main LED, but I seem to recall from other forum post that these Hasbro boards can only handle (or is it put out?) so many volts.
    3.7 to 6 volts are the safe limits for MR and Hasbro boards, and a 5v voltage regulator must be used beyond that point. Boj-Vaati Mau designed a setup very similar to yours in this post. I hope it works for you.

  7. #17

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    Thanks Vazan! I thought I had seen every diagram on these forums, but I seem to have missed that one. (http://forums.thecustomsabershop.com...rt-Saber/page8) I'm not using a recharge port, so I'm trying to ... interpolate (right word?) ... how to wire it from his diagram. I made a new diagram incorporating both the PNP transistor and the 5V regulator. Incidentally, I'm not sure if it makes a difference, but I'm using a 1000mA Buck Puck. My new schematic leaves me with 3 questions:

    1. (Lime green circle in diagram) it appears as though the 3 LED - wires are going to/coming from the sound card. If so, to what contact are they attached on the board? I thought they might be going to 3 additional accent LED's.
    2. (Hot pink circle in diagram) the original diagram shows a ground going from the Buck Puck to the recharge port. Would I simply wire this directly to the battery (neg)?
    3. (Aqua circle in diagram) I guess this is related to question #1; a dashed red line appears to come from the sound board, labeled "LED+" (Note that I changed its location slightly in my diagram for clarity) What contact is this attached to on the sound board and to where does it connect at the other end?





    Sorry for all the questions. I just want to get this right on my 8th or 9th attempt without frying anything!
    ROBODOC

    That which does not kill us makes us stronger.
    -Friedrich Wilhelm Nietzsche

  8. #18

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    Maybe the first pics of this tread could help you a little with those wires in the board:
    http://forums.thecustomsabershop.com...ube-sabers-Log

    #1 those boards have 3 negatives and 1 positive wired to a small board with 3 accents, maybe your soundboard has the small board of the accents directly soldered to the board. in that case 3 on the left are the negs and you have to wire them and the other one is the unused positive (#3) that we must just ignore.
    I can't say anything about #2

  9. #19

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    Thanks for the link. Unfortunately I didn't quite grasp your description.
    #1 those boards have 3 negatives and 1 positive wired to a small board with 3 accents, maybe your soundboard has the small board of the accents directly soldered to the board. in that case 3 on the left are the negs and you have to wire them and the other one is the unused positive (#3) that we must just ignore.
    It looks like my sound board is different, so that maybe part of my confusion. Here is a picture of my Hasbro board for reference:



    Any ideas? Has anyone used one of these Hasbro sound boards?
    ROBODOC

    That which does not kill us makes us stronger.
    -Friedrich Wilhelm Nietzsche

  10. #20

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    This board doesn't look like one of the Hasbro 2010 econoboards, I guess the wiring suggested so far is not correct for it.

    I guess it's the board coming from the old Hasbro lightsabers equipped with one bulb instead of the LEDs, veeery old; I think I saw one in the past.
    If it is the case you need an NPN transistor, but I'm not 100% sure.

    Anyone can confirm the version of the board ?

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