Page 1 of 2 1 2 LastLast
Results 1 to 10 of 15

Thread: Peace and Justice, A Dual Saber's Build

  1. #1

    Question Peace and Justice, A Dual Saber's Build

    Hi friends! I am beginning my personal dual saber build which I have decided to name Peace and Justice in honor of the main purpose of the Jedi. I will need and would really, really appreciate any help and or input that anyone has to offer, no bit of information is too big or small so please feel free to offer any opinion. I drew my inspiration heavily from all of you other builders and your sabers especially Arklight Arsenals Hatchet and Eastern57's take on Corran Horns saber as well as the trailer sabers from The Force Unleashed 2 done by Sollus Vir on the FX forums. You're all incredible artists and inspire me!

    Mine are going to be run by the nano biscottes which I already ordered from Plecter labs and have been shipped. Also these sabers will both have crystal chambers which are revealed when you slide the grip off. Before I place my order with TCSS at around the end of the week I would like some opinion on the hilt design and some LED advice. These are the two designs I am deciding between:

    SaberBuilder_render1.jpg

    SaberBuilder_render2.jpg

    To get the concept across I put one blade holder on top of another but that shroud will obviously be made from sleeve material. I will post some more accurate sketches later on. Do you think the choke looks better or not? Also do you find the choke serves any practical purpose?

    Seeing as these will be silver blades I wanted to get some opinions on what the best way to get silver would be. I have researched it rather heavily and some suggest using a bbw tri rebel, a plain white rebel star or a fully customized led engine. I also thought of buying a blue-white-white tri rebel from luxeon but that's a bit more expensive so I'd want to know it was worth it first so any opinions on which one to use would be appreciated!

    Later I will be posting a parts list and a wiring diagram which i would also love some suggestions on! Thankyou all in advance for any responses! Cheers

  2. #2

    Default

    I would put in the chokes as they create a very natural and comfortable place to grip the saber. I would, however, shorten the main grip to a seven inch extension. That thing will get uncomfortably long otherwise.

    As for Silver, Madcow (the guy who developed the "silver" blade for the original Corran Horn) uses a tri royal blue/royal blue/white witb the rb and w wired together for silver.

  3. #3
    Jedi Padawan Starwinder's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2012
    Location
    Coruscant (aka Washington, D.C.)
    Posts
    584

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Ty_Bomber View Post
    I would put in the chokes as they create a very natural and comfortable place to grip the saber. I would, however, shorten the main grip to a seven inch extension. That thing will get uncomfortably long otherwise.
    I agree with Ty. If you're planning to dual wield these - one in each hand - then the choke will provide a better one-handed grip. Shortening the hilts will also make them easier to hold and swing around
    --------------------------Cadence--------------------------

  4. #4

    Default

    I'm not sure but it looks like you have a switch box mounted on the emiter. Is it just for looks? If not I think you will have a lot of problems wiring it up.

  5. #5

    Default

    It looks like you have two blade holders overlapping in the drawings. If that's intentional, it won't work. If it was just a rendering mistake, no worries.

  6. #6

    Default

    To get the concept across I put one blade holder on top of another but that shroud will obviously be made from sleeve material.
    The builder doesn't have shrouds.

  7. #7
    Jedi Padawan
    Sith Adept
    Jedi Padawan
    Cire Yeldarb's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2013
    Location
    United States
    Posts
    595

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by dannv View Post
    It looks like you have two blade holders overlapping in the drawings. If that's intentional, it won't work. If it was just a rendering mistake, no worries.
    Quote Originally Posted by Sevinzol View Post
    The builder doesn't have shrouds.
    I believe anon was saying that they put that second blade holder on top of the first one to make it /look/ like the shroud they will be adding later with sleeve material.

  8. #8

    Default

    Hey everyone, thanks for your responses, they're much appreciated! On your advice I have decided to go with the choke design. Also on your advice I decided to go with the tri rebels as i can always change that later if i feel the blade isn't bright enough. Thanks for bringing that to my attention Sevinzol! Yeah the switchbox would be very challenging to mount and I'm questioning the practicality of it anyway. I want the sabers to feel good and easy to ignite and turn off especially since i am holding them one handed. The design which I am planning on at the moment is 12.45 inches (31.6 cm). Do you think that this will be too long? Also Cire is right, i know the builder doesn't have shrouds and you can't mount one blade holder on top of the other but i was just trying to convey what it would look like. Sorry for not being clearer about that lol . This here is my parts list that I have at the moment. I have not included the resistors as I have not finished calculating them. Obviously I am ordering two of most of these parts.

    Hilt:
    MPS Insert style 6
    LED "TCSS style" Battle blade 1" OD (36 inch)
    MPS Pommel style 1.75"
    Male / Female extension
    Screw on LED blade holder style 13
    MHS Sleeve material
    MPS Clip
    Hilt Style 1 (7" Double female threaded connector)
    MHS choke style 1 short
    8-32 x .3" anodized thumb screw
    Drill & Tap Hole- On both 7 inch double female connectors 1.5 inches from the bottom for the covertec clips. On one of them on the right hand side and the left hand side on the other.
    Drill & Tap Hole- On the front of both blade holders for the retention screws, in the middle of the two grooves.
    Black machined button for Covertec clip
    Super Lube Synthetic Grease

    Chassis:
    Acrylic Chassis Disc for NB/18650
    Stainless 4-40 all thread
    Stainless Steel 4-40 Hex nut
    2" Aluminum 3/16" OD spacer
    Chassis Disc style 4
    Chassis Disc style 5

    Electronics:
    Star thermal tape pad
    Luxeon Tri-Rebel Star
    Luxeon 18deg Tri-Rebel Star Lens
    MHS "new style" Heat Sink V3
    2.1mm Power Jack
    2.1mm Power plug
    Kill plug style 2
    Heatshrink tubing
    2w Mini Speaker
    3.7V-14.8V Li-Ion Smart charger

    Already have:
    Quartz Crystals
    Basic Chamber leds
    Momentary switches
    18650 Batteries
    ESD safe soldering iron and helping hands
    2 Nano Biscotte's

    Which all adds up to about $550 before postage to Australia Is that everything? Anything else you recommend that I include? I'd rather have left overs than need to order again Also, do you think that the 36 inch blade will be long enough?

    Thanks everyone so much for your help so far! I hope to be posting a wiring diagram very soon Thanks again!

  9. #9

    Default

    I don't see anything missing. If you're concerned about the 36 inch blade not being long enough, then get the 40 inch blade. You can always cut it down, but you can't stretch it out. If you have to cut it, you'll end up with some extra bits of blade material that can be used to make blade plugs like these: http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/1-...plug-P571.aspx

    When cutting the blades, be sure to plug them with something to keep the plastic dust from going up in the tube.
    We all have to start somewhere. The journey is all the more impressive by our humble beginnings.

    http://led.linear1.org/1led.wiz for the lazy man's resistor calculator!
    http://forums.thecustomsabershop.com...e-to-Ohm-s-Law for getting resistor values the right way!

  10. #10

    Default

    Hey all! Thanks SS for the response and especially the tip on cutting the blade!! I didn't post for a couple of days because I've been wiring up my two nano biscottes. I still haven't placed my order with tcss (funding issues lol) but i will be placing it very soon. I'm using the wiring harness so I set up a test rig up to run the NBs but obviously wasn't able to include all the components. My test rig consists only of battery, test speaker, mom. switch and led so I would really appreciate it some people could take a look at my wiring diagram just to double check if I'm correct. I apologize for the rough sketch and I hope it's clear enough, i had to compress it to upload it.

    NB Wiring.jpg

    All worked beautifully on both boards (a truly awesome moment when you test it for the first time!!!) but then on the first board the speaker suddenly cut out mid hum. I have narrowed down the problem but still am unsure of what to do. It can't be the speaker or any other components because they still work perfectly when you plug them into the other NB and it can't be the SD card because i put the other NB's card in and it still didn't work and it can't be the board itself because i still have the LED working as it should. Therefore I'm thinking that my wiring on the speaker pads in the harness must be at fault. I will try re-soldering these just to make absolutely sure and will post a pic of my soldering job if it will help. I really appreciate all the help and comment so far and any more suggestions or ideas would be much appreciated as well. Thanks everyone!!!

    Hey I didn't want to double post so I thought I'd edit this one. TCSS is currently out of BBW Tri-Rebels and I'm not sure if they're re-stocking. Therefore I've decided to buy straight from Luxeon, something I was thinking of doing anyway. For my silver blade i was thinking of WWB Tri-Rebels with two (6500K cool whites 180 lm) and one (royal blue 840mW). If anyone has any tips on understanding these specs, what array to wire them up in and possibly calculating resistors that would be awesome!! I looked and couldn't find anything specific on the Luxeon site so I went with some information of TCSS one which according to my extremely limited understanding would give me a forward voltage of 3.5 volts and 1000mA which would need a resistor of 2W or greater 1 ohm according to the resistor calculator. Pardon my ignorance on this topic! Any advice would be extremely helpful!
    Last edited by 000anonymous999; 10-24-2013 at 10:01 PM. Reason: Additional Entry

Tags for this Thread

Bookmarks

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •