Page 3 of 13 FirstFirst 1 2 3 4 5 ... LastLast
Results 21 to 30 of 126

Thread: el sound

  1. #21

    Default

    Thanx, i'm sure i will have more questions once i get one

  2. #22

  3. #23

    Default

    <blockquote id="quote"><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote">Originally posted by Strydur

    http://www.radioshack.com/product/in...entPage=search

    [img]../scripts/soundwiring.jpg[/img]


    You still have to wire up the switch correctly but this shows how to run EL at 9v and the sound module at 5v. That is if I figured correctly.

    Tim
    The Custom Saber Shop
    <hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></font id="quote"></blockquote id="quote">
    ok so I understand how everything is wired up but there is a speaker right would you have the speaker placed on the bottom of the hilt so you can hear it?, also how who one go about mounting all of these electronics inside the hilt ie.. securing the sensors to the inside so that they work properly maybe I can design a bracket that slips inside the hilt to attach all the components to I guess should work on it.

  4. #24

    Default

    I bought an electronic saber from walmart it has a motor in it that causes a vibration and attached to the board are three led's I was wondering if I mounted all of these things in my hilt if it would draw too much power from my blade?

    "The probability of successfully navigating an asteroid field is approxamitly 3,720 to 1"...C3PO - ANH

  5. #25

    Default

    In all of my sabers, I put the sound board and the sensors in a film canister, with the speaker secured where the lid of the canister should be. A hole is in the "bottom" of the canister for the wires to pass through. Small, compact and fits inside a saber body nicely. All the sensors function perfectly.

    ...how will you know the light unless you have seen the dark? How will you know the good unless you have flirted with the evil?

  6. #26

    Default

    well the soundboard from the new hasbro sabers are different they come with vibration and LED already attached they would not fit inside a film canister so I took a piece of PVC pipe and cut it out so that I could mount everything to it and just slide it in the hilt with the sound coming from the bottom where I made some holes for the sound to escape the only thing is I had to make a small hole it the side of the hilt so that I could change the battery and this gets covered so you won't even see it

    "The probability of successfully navigating an asteroid field is approxamitly 3,720 to 1"...C3PO - ANH

  7. #27
    Council Member
    Jedi Council Member
    Jedi-Loreen's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2005
    Location
    Not of this Earth
    Posts
    6,077

    Default

    <font size="3"><font color="purple">Wow, that was one of the longest run-on sentences I think I've ever seen! [] Don't you believe in puncuation, man? </font id="purple"> </font id="size3">
    [?]
    In order to see the Light, you must sometimes risk the Dark.

  8. #28

    Default

    not really when I am typing I use the old hunt and peck style of typing so not using any punctuations saves time besides who really cares it's not like I am getting graded on it

    "The probability of successfully navigating an asteroid field is approxamitly 3,720 to 1"...C3PO - ANH

  9. #29

    Default


    Ok I think I have this understood a little bit better now that I reaed could find on soundboards. Just one question- Will this work if you use one of those voltage regulators from Radio Shack in place of the resistor? Thanks.

    -Luke

  10. #30
    Council Member
    Jedi Council Member
    xwingband's Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 2005
    Location
    The training simulators, duh!
    Posts
    5,899

    Default

    Okies, the negative from the inverter comes straight from the battery. I think you have the LED all messed up. The resistance is applied on the negative.

    Here's what I believe it should look like if your resistor is correct for the LED. (If not you could always recalculate it)



    EDIT: Oops forgot to mention the switch too. You're going to have the same problem of the Hasbro being momentary and needing a latching for the inverter. If Tim offers latching relays you'd just need a DPDT and you'd be peachy.[]

    <center>
    www.dewbackwing.com</center>

Bookmarks

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •