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Thread: Making the 10 watt upgrade, but with an ultrasaber.

  1. #1

    Default Making the 10 watt upgrade, but with an ultrasaber.

    Hey guys! So first off, I want to say, that I have read, searched, read again, PMed other people on the net, and read again the things needed to upgrade my saber. I have an Ultra Saber Raven with the first obsidian soundboard, Li-ion setup, in blazing red Seoul P4. I want to upgrade it to a 10Watt deep red LEDengin that is listed on the site. My problem? Im not tech savy. Everything I have read, probably could answer my question for me, but Im not tech savy.... AT ALL...... I emailed ultrasabers about the upgrade, and they said all I would have to do is cut the current LED, and add the new LED and it should work fine. This sounds too good to be true to me. If that is the case, then why don't they do it? They would have the cheapest and brightest pre-made sabers on the market. So, I emailed again, and asked if that was really the case. Would it not be as bright as it could be? Would the battery not last as long? Why don't you guys do it? Their reply was that they specialize in their own sabers, and don't answer technical questions. So, I turned to the Saberforums and asked the same questions. No one has replied. I figure its because everyone on those forums are like me and have no flipping clue what to do when it comes to electronics, so they just buy one that is already made for them, lol.... SOOO.... That being said, here I am now.

    I read about the Seriallel way of doing this. Its confusing to me, but I feel as if it contains the secrets to my success!!! Too bad I don't understand it :/
    What I can do: I can buy the parts I need, and do the work. What I need help in? I have no idea what to buy other than the LED itself. I'm willing to keep reading and such, but when it comes to current, voltage, numbers and letters, I'm lost. Really lost. Like, more lost than Waldo hiding from the Empire on Coruscant. Im the art and music guy, math was hell for me..... lol

    So, If someone can tell me what to buy, and maybe help explain the Seriallel way of wiring things, in English (or as simply as possible, lol) then I will be eternally grateful, and promise to post pictures of me with my beautiful Deep Red saber, and myself in my amazing award winning costume!!!

    ~May the Force grant you power~

  2. #2

    Default

    OK. First off, not many here deal with their products especially their soundcards. And there is a reason for that (which I won't get into in public). This forum is attached to the TCSS store, just like their forum is attached to their site. From what I remember of their cards, trying to seriallel a 10W could be a bit dangerous.

    I'm also willing to bet that the seriallel setups you read about did NOT include that particular soundcard. If you don't see them doing it, there is probably a good reason why. And it isn't necessarily as easy as they make it sound.

    Now, onto my questions...

    Why would you want to upgrade to a 10W Deep Red anyway? Deep Red's are darker by nature, so it won't necessarily be that much "brighter" in the end.

    Have you done any electronics work (soldering, etc) before?

    What batteries are you using now to run the saber?

    There are alternatives, and potential solutions for you, but I'm going to go there just yet. I want to hear a little more from you first.
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    "Yeah, yeah, I've heard it all before... you want blindingly bright, super loud, running 1138 blinkies off of the cheapest sound card you can find AND you want all of it to run on a battery the size of a dime, and run for a very, VERY long time. That one cracks me up every time..."
    My email: fjk_tcss@yahoo.com

  3. #3

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    From comments I've read here in several threads, more wattage isn't necessarily a good thing. LEDengins are hotter, chew up batteries faster and aren't noticably brighter. This is not my personal experience so take for what its worth. If you have no tech skill (as you say) and the saber is working what do you hope to accomplish. If it ain't broke don't fix it.

  4. #4

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    You cannot run a LEDengin 10W at it's best capacity on an Obsidian. The board cannot take the 7.4V needed to do so.

    My advice: Gut the saber, trash the board and buy a Petit Crouton. That can run your 10W just fine. However I would suggest the Tri-Rebel over a LEDengin any day for the reasons stated above.

    LED Saber Combat Master Instructor
    Co-Founder of Caine and Novastar's Saber Combat System (NCSCS)
    Life's short...saberplay HARD!

  5. #5

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    It might also be worth noting that forum member Darth Alice (or Darth Cooper, I don't remember which name is for this forum ) had a 10 watt GGGG LedEngine in a saber and said he sold it because it was too bright... I had a tri-rebel GGW with the greens in serial...it was a tad on the bright side.
    "We don't have to win. We only have to fight." - Mace Windu (Shatterpoint)

  6. #6

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    Too bright?! lol
    That's almost as funny as too loud.

    There is a simple math formula for Saber names.-----------------------To check out the sound fonts I've made:
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  7. #7
    Council Member
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    Agreed. No such thing as too bright IMO. However, I have done many Full Powah LEDengin installs, and except for a few occasions have been underwhelmed. LEDengin's aren't very impressive for green. IF you want the brightest green saber (but still want features like FoC), a Tri-Rebel or Quad Rebel is your best bet. If you just want 'green' with no FoC, and you have the ability to give it 2A-6A, an SR90 LED can just about be classified as a real saber.

    If you're new, please take the time we all consider just as precious as you and READ!

    GET LATHED!

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  8. #8

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    Quote Originally Posted by forgetful jedi knight View Post
    OK. First off, not many here deal with their products especially their soundcards. And there is a reason for that (which I won't get into in public). This forum is attached to the TCSS store, just like their forum is attached to their site. From what I remember of their cards, trying to seriallel a 10W could be a bit dangerous.

    I'm also willing to bet that the seriallel setups you read about did NOT include that particular soundcard. If you don't see them doing it, there is probably a good reason why. And it isn't necessarily as easy as they make it sound.

    Now, onto my questions...

    Why would you want to upgrade to a 10W Deep Red anyway? Deep Red's are darker by nature, so it won't necessarily be that much "brighter" in the end.

    Have you done any electronics work (soldering, etc) before?

    What batteries are you using now to run the saber?

    There are alternatives, and potential solutions for you, but I'm going to go there just yet. I want to hear a little more from you first.
    I actually don't like the color of the Seoul P4 red. Its too orange/pink to me. A deeper red is what Im going for. As for my other goals, obviously brightness. From everywhere online, I hear 10 Watts is flipping bright, and LEDengin is the respected brand.

    I have done soldering work before.

    Im using 2 of these batteries: http://www.ultrasabers.com/product-p...4500li-ion.htm

    As for the other options below, I don't have enough to spend on a PC right now, so Ill have to use the current sound board I have. If there is another way around its possible lack of whatever to run a 10 watt, then I'm listening.

  9. #9
    Council Member
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    Tri-Rebel. The Rebels have a nice red, are REALLY bright, and use less power and generate less heat than a LEDengin. LEDengins were the hot thing 3 years ago, but there are better/more efficient LEDs being used now.

    If you're new, please take the time we all consider just as precious as you and READ!

    GET LATHED!

    Official BMF and LORD OF THE STRINGS

  10. #10

    Default

    Listen to Fender. He's built more sabers than most of us will see in our lifetime.
    We all have to start somewhere. The journey is all the more impressive by our humble beginnings.

    http://led.linear1.org/1led.wiz for the lazy man's resistor calculator!
    http://forums.thecustomsabershop.com...e-to-Ohm-s-Law for getting resistor values the right way!

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