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Thread: Parts list - Did I get everything?

  1. #11

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    *cries in corner* Ok, so acrylic disks to help keep the NB safe. I assume that the battery chassis/chassis rig isn't strictly necessary, but useful to keep everything neat and tidy inside the hilt? would there be any danger of the NB getting damaged if it is next to the speaker?
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  2. #12

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    Quote Originally Posted by Commander View Post
    *cries in corner* Ok, so acrylic disks to help keep the NB safe. I assume that the battery chassis/chassis rig isn't strictly necessary, but useful to keep everything neat and tidy inside the hilt? would there be any danger of the NB getting damaged if it is next to the speaker?
    Yes, it does prevent things from rattling around. It also makes the difference as to "how much" dueling a saber can withstand, a well constructed chassis in a saber mean you should have a very durable saber.

    As for your question about the NB, it won't hurt it per se, but if you have some space between the two, it will be less susceptible to false swing sounds caused by speaker vibration.
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  3. #13

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    The acrylic chassis discs are nice, but they're not the only way to do it. They're probably the easiest way though. You can certainly build your own chassis with pvc pipe or something else nonconductive. You just want to hold the electronics in place, keep them from banging around, and prevent short circuits if the board touches the inside of the hilt.
    We all have to start somewhere. The journey is all the more impressive by our humble beginnings.

    http://led.linear1.org/1led.wiz for the lazy man's resistor calculator!
    http://forums.thecustomsabershop.com...e-to-Ohm-s-Law for getting resistor values the right way!

  4. #14

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    I think I'll try and build by own chassis for this. What kind of wire should I get, the 24 or 26 gauge?
    Questions lead to answers.
    Answers lead to knowledge.
    Knowledge is power, ULTIMATE POWER!!!

  5. #15

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    Both are perfectly acceptable. Make sure you have a good set of wire strippers though. It's really easy to cut through those thin gauge wires.
    We all have to start somewhere. The journey is all the more impressive by our humble beginnings.

    http://led.linear1.org/1led.wiz for the lazy man's resistor calculator!
    http://forums.thecustomsabershop.com...e-to-Ohm-s-Law for getting resistor values the right way!

  6. #16

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    Will have a look for a soldering iron and some wire strippers next time I make it to a hardware store. As for soldering wire, thin and lead-free seems to be the way to go. I'll also need some "helping hands", but I should be able to borrow those from a friend.

    When I'm soldering the wires to the board, should I just tin the wires, then re-melt the flux (that's what it's called right?) when the wire is in place?
    Questions lead to answers.
    Answers lead to knowledge.
    Knowledge is power, ULTIMATE POWER!!!

  7. #17

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    http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AOdnGUMi7lQ is the tutorial I used for learning to solder. Personally, I prefer the leaded solder. It melts at a lower temperature and is generally easier to work with. Don't eat the leftover scraps of solder.

    Don't get cheap wire strippers. Get a good set. I use Klein myself, and they work great.

    Flux is a mixture of chemicals that you either apply manually, or is included in the solder itself. It aids in cleaning oxidation off parts, and improves the melting and wetability of the solder. The solder is the metal portion.

    ALWAYS tin your wires first. Trust me, it helps a ton.
    We all have to start somewhere. The journey is all the more impressive by our humble beginnings.

    http://led.linear1.org/1led.wiz for the lazy man's resistor calculator!
    http://forums.thecustomsabershop.com...e-to-Ohm-s-Law for getting resistor values the right way!

  8. #18

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    Quote Originally Posted by Silver Serpent View Post
    http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AOdnGUMi7lQ is the tutorial I used for learning to solder. Personally, I prefer the leaded solder. It melts at a lower temperature and is generally easier to work with. Don't eat the leftover scraps of solder.

    Don't get cheap wire strippers. Get a good set. I use Klein myself, and they work great.

    Flux is a mixture of chemicals that you either apply manually, or is included in the solder itself. It aids in cleaning oxidation off parts, and improves the melting and wetability of the solder. The solder is the metal portion.

    ALWAYS tin your wires first. Trust me, it helps a ton.
    That's an awesome tutorial, thanks for pointing it out.
    Questions lead to answers.
    Answers lead to knowledge.
    Knowledge is power, ULTIMATE POWER!!!

  9. #19

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    http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/Vi...shlistId=32545 here is my final shopping(wish) list. Does this look like everything? If the 8-32 drill and tap isn't in stock I'll get the 10-32 with appropriate screws instead. The thumb screw and button head screw(for covertech clip) should work fine.
    Questions lead to answers.
    Answers lead to knowledge.
    Knowledge is power, ULTIMATE POWER!!!

  10. #20

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    Nothing strikes me as missing.

    Just as an fyi, the button that comes with the covertec clip is plastic. If you want a metal one, you'll have to order that separately. The plastic one will work, it's mostly an aesthetic difference.
    We all have to start somewhere. The journey is all the more impressive by our humble beginnings.

    http://led.linear1.org/1led.wiz for the lazy man's resistor calculator!
    http://forums.thecustomsabershop.com...e-to-Ohm-s-Law for getting resistor values the right way!

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