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Thread: Parts list - Did I get everything?

  1. #1

    Question Parts list - Did I get everything?

    Ok, so I know the noob list says start simple, but I decided to add a bunch of extras, since shipping is pricey to South Africa. I will hopefully be placing my order around January.

    Saber basics:
    Blade holder 11
    with "new style" heat sink V2
    Recommended 8-32 thumb screw
    Hilt style 3 with standard switch hole
    Pommel style 8, MPS clip and pommel insert style 3 Changing pommel insert style to 6
    Star thermal tape pad
    Build your own Seoul P4 Electronics kit:
    4AA battery holder I will be using 4x AA NiMH batteries here
    Seoul P4 (red)
    5(degree) lens
    4.7ohm 5w resistor
    (swithc02) Push on/Push off switch
    P4 lens holder

    Corbin style 36" show blade 1"OD
    1/8" heatshrink
    Tap Handle
    (The 8-32 drill bit, tap set in out of stock, hoping it will be in when I order, otherwise ill go for another size)

    Extras:
    Covertec clip,
    1" hilt safety plug
    8-32 x 1/4" socket head screw
    MHS choke style 3

    Sound electronics:
    16mm Anti Vandal Momentary Nickel plated switch -- Will this fit on the handle I have chosen, or will it require drilling?
    Alternatively, should i just take the momentary switch with the LED kit? swapping this for the standard momentary switch with red button
    2.1mm Power jack -- Will greatly appreciate a diagram of how this should be wired in
    Kill plug style 5
    Premium Speaker
    Nano Biscotte Sound Module V1 with Light meat sound
    2.7 ohm 10w resistor
    24 gauge wire; 3 feet both red and black, 2 feet blue and green
    Adding the 2.1mm plug adapter for smart charger. By some luck I already have a smart charger.

    Did I get everything, or what should be added?
    I suspect that ill need extra wire. Which would be best to get?
    With regards to the blade retention screw, do I drill the hole at a 90(degree) angle to the blade holder?

    That's all for now. Will ask more as questions come up.

    Thanks in advance everyone.

    I will update this post as I get more info, and maybe swap parts
    Last edited by Commander; 08-28-2013 at 12:50 PM. Reason: parts update

  2. #2

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    About the pommel insert, will that one be fine, or is there one of the vented inserts that can fit the power jack? I'm thinking of providing the sound with a bit of space to escape the hilt here. Pommel changed, thanks Silver Serpent
    Last edited by Commander; 08-26-2013 at 11:24 PM.

  3. #3

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    Hooking up a recharge port is detailed in the sound board manuals. It's also in this post: http://forums.thecustomsabershop.com...1391#post51391

    Pommel insert style 6 (in aluminum or brass) is vented and has a threaded hole for the recharge port.

    The AV switches will not fit in the standard hole. You can select the AV switch hole service from the store to make it the appropriate size.

    Yes, you will drill at a 90 degree angle for your blade retention screw.

    Now for some other news: If you're running the Nano Biscotte, you can't use the 4AA battery holder. Or at least, you can't use 4 AA alkalines. 6v of power is too much for the sound board. It is better to use a single li-ion battery for that board. They can't be shipped internationally from the US right now, so you'll have to find some locally. You could also use 4 AA NiMH batteries instead, if those are easier to find. You will need to recalculate the resistor for your LED based off of your new power source. There is a link in my sig for the resistor calculator I use.
    We all have to start somewhere. The journey is all the more impressive by our humble beginnings.

    http://led.linear1.org/1led.wiz for the lazy man's resistor calculator!
    http://forums.thecustomsabershop.com...e-to-Ohm-s-Law for getting resistor values the right way!

  4. #4

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    Can't he use the 4xAA holder, or even a 2xAA holder and dummy cells, and get some 14500's locally? As long as the batteries are not paired up in series in the holder, it will spit out 3.7v won't it?

  5. #5

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    Yes, a single 14500 and 3 dummy cells would work fine. Or modify the holder so all the cells are wired parallel and get 4x the runtime. There's a few different ways to do it. Popping in 4 AA NiMH is the simplest solution.
    We all have to start somewhere. The journey is all the more impressive by our humble beginnings.

    http://led.linear1.org/1led.wiz for the lazy man's resistor calculator!
    http://forums.thecustomsabershop.com...e-to-Ohm-s-Law for getting resistor values the right way!

  6. #6

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    I had a nice reply typed out and when I posted I wasn't logged in, copied the reply...and didn't *sigh*

    NiMH batteries seems to be the easiest to find.

    I had a look at the Nano's wiring guide, and will do my own diagram when I have time, just to make sure I understand what it explains.

    Will a guarded switch fit on an unguarded style hilt and look ugly, or not fit at all. I will probably get a guarded style hilt and switch if there is stock when I order.

    for the resistor: NiMH batteries give 1.2V each so 4.8V collectively. for the P4 red LED, source will be 4.8V, forward voltage will be 3V, forward current 800mA, so a 1.7W capable or greater 2.7ohm resistor so this? http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/27...istor-P14.aspx the wattage is probably to high?
    alternatively with one of the other P4 LED's: 4.8V source, 4V forward voltage and 1000mA forward current. So a 2W capable or greater 1ohm resistor, thus http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/1o...istor-P21.aspx

  7. #7

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    Wattage is a minimum. You can always go larger. The resistor just takes up more room in the hilt.

    Guarded switches don't fit in standard holes (and vice versa).
    We all have to start somewhere. The journey is all the more impressive by our humble beginnings.

    http://led.linear1.org/1led.wiz for the lazy man's resistor calculator!
    http://forums.thecustomsabershop.com...e-to-Ohm-s-Law for getting resistor values the right way!

  8. #8

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    Will the higher wattage have an impact on battery life?
    Is it necessary to isolate the Nano board after soldering on the wires, and what would I use to do this?
    Will I need to add something for the battery pack to not move around inside the hilt, or will it fit fine?

    Thanks for all your help Silver Serpent, I greatly appreciate it.
    Questions lead to answers.
    Answers lead to knowledge.
    Knowledge is power, ULTIMATE POWER!!!

  9. #9

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    NB wiring guide2.jpg

    *diagram copied from the Nano Biscotte user manual and edited to add a recharge port

    I did a quick edit of the existing diagram to add the recharge port. Is this correct? the recharge port and diagram can be found on page 8 + 9 http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/im...%20v1.0-GB.pdf
    Questions lead to answers.
    Answers lead to knowledge.
    Knowledge is power, ULTIMATE POWER!!!

  10. #10

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    Wattage of the resistor won't have any impact other than the room it takes up. Your wiring diagram looks correct.

    You will probably want something to help hold your battery pack in place. You'll definitely want a chassis of some sort for the Nano Biscotte. There are some nice acrylic discs in the store specifically for that purpose and will work well with the NB.

    With the battery pack and battery holder, you may be able to get by with some foam mounting tape. Or possibly use some PVC pipe and cut out a holder that will fit your pack. There are quite a few decent ways to do it.
    We all have to start somewhere. The journey is all the more impressive by our humble beginnings.

    http://led.linear1.org/1led.wiz for the lazy man's resistor calculator!
    http://forums.thecustomsabershop.com...e-to-Ohm-s-Law for getting resistor values the right way!

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