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Thread: simplified blue saber parts list

  1. #1

    Default simplified blue saber parts list

    Okay, another revision. This is it. I can feel it.

    -Rebel Star LED & MHS Heatsink Module (blue)
    -LED "TCSS style" Battle blade 1" OD (32 inches)
    -Li-Ion 18650 3.7V 2600mAh PCB Protected Rechargeable Battery Module + charger
    -Screw on LED blade holder style 20
    -MHS Extension Blank Style 3
    -1-1/2" x 12" Chrome sink tube
    -MHS to 1.5" sink tube adapter
    -1-3/8" Chrome end cap
    -Premium Speaker
    -MR soundboard (cause some of us are on a budget)
    -16mm Anti Vandal Latching Blue Ring Switch (or a red one. I haven't decided yet)
    -20mA DynaOhm™ Variable Resistor
    -Bezel for illuminated switch
    -1ohm 2w resistor
    -26 gauge wire (sold by the foot) (Black) + heatshrink

  2. #2

    Default

    Getting better... this plan is fairly realistic.

    You need to get a blade retaining screw (and the hole drilled and tapped if you're not going to do it yourself).
    Also when you get wiring get multiple colors (not just black), it'll help you figure out which wire is which later on in life.
    How do you plan on securing your speaker (and everything else in the hilt, for that matter)?
    TCSS MODERATOR
    All n00bs READ these first (PLEASE)!!!:
    1. Forum Guidelines
    2. FJK’s “Down and Dirty” guide to Ohm’s Law

    "Yeah, yeah, I've heard it all before... you want blindingly bright, super loud, running 1138 blinkies off of the cheapest sound card you can find AND you want all of it to run on a battery the size of a dime, and run for a very, VERY long time. That one cracks me up every time..."
    My email: fjk_tcss@yahoo.com

  3. #3

    Default

    This is just a thought. I'm considering the tri-rebel still and just worrying about the two blue dice. I feel confident enough about that and also have enough info to do it. That way, if I want to do something with the white in the future when I know enough, I'll have it.
    As for the other stuff, I'll think of something.

  4. #4

    Default

    The 1.5" sink tube doesn't seem to have a nut for the flared end like the 1.25" tube does (according to the picture). If thats the case you may want a screw of some kind to hold the 1-3/8" chrome cap in place, otherwise its just a tension fit and you run the risk of it popping of and stuff sliding out.

  5. #5

    Default

    Alas, my final parts list. Did I pick the right Li-Ion 18650 3.7v batt?


    -Li-Ion 18650 3.7V 2600mAh PCB Protected Rechargeable Battery Module
    -Single 18650 Li-Ion charger
    -LED "TCSS style" Show blade 1" OD (32 inches)
    -Rebel Star LED & MHS Heatsink Module (blue)
    -Screw on LED blade holder style 20
    -1-1/2" x 12" Chrome sink tube
    -MHS to 1.5" sink tube adapter
    -1-3/8" Chrome end cap
    -MR soundboard (from ebay)
    -Premium Speaker
    -16mm Anti Vandal Latching Red Ring Switch
    -20mA DynaOhm™ Variable Resistor
    -26 g wire (red & black)
    -Bezel for illuminated switches
    -8-32 x .3" Gold thumb screw

  6. #6

    Default

    Yes, that would work fine.
    TCSS MODERATOR
    All n00bs READ these first (PLEASE)!!!:
    1. Forum Guidelines
    2. FJK’s “Down and Dirty” guide to Ohm’s Law

    "Yeah, yeah, I've heard it all before... you want blindingly bright, super loud, running 1138 blinkies off of the cheapest sound card you can find AND you want all of it to run on a battery the size of a dime, and run for a very, VERY long time. That one cracks me up every time..."
    My email: fjk_tcss@yahoo.com

  7. #7

    Default

    Your battery and charger selections are a little confusing. The only "loose" 18650 batteries in the store are TrustFire 2400mAh 2-packs or the Panasonic 3400mAh single packs (protected or unprotected) that work with the single charger. There is no "loose" 18650 2600mAh batteries that will work with that charger.

    Otherwise there is the MWS compatible 3.7v 2600mAh protected battery module (with JST connector, im assuming you mean this one), or the MWS Panasonic 3.7v 3400mAh protected pack with JST connector. These 2 options are intended for internal use with a recharge port and the smart charger, and not compatible with the single charger.

    If you are intending to use a loose battery cell with that single charger, please keep in mind the ones with the JST connector will not be compatible. Also, you will need to source a 18650 battery holder with leads to incorporate into your electronics. Keep in mind that "protected" cells are slightly longer than unprotected ones due to the PCB that is located at the end of the cell, and not all 18650 battery holders are made the same, some are a tighter fit than others, and placing a protected cell in one of those holders, it may be nearly impossible to remove without damaging something.

  8. #8

    Default

    One more thing. The setup of this battery looks confusing to me. There aren't any holders for it on sale here. I assume I wire it directly to the MR board I'll use. How do I go about charging this particular battery so it won't explode, melt, light my house on fire, etc? Is it safe to charge it even though its apparently wired directly to the board?? O_o
    Cause it sure doesn't seem so. xP

  9. #9

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by GFJedi View Post
    Your battery and charger selections are a little confusing. The only "loose" 18650 batteries in the store are TrustFire 2400mAh 2-packs or the Panasonic 3400mAh single packs (protected or unprotected) that work with the single charger. There is no "loose" 18650 2600mAh batteries that will work with that charger.

    Otherwise there is the MWS compatible 3.7v 2600mAh protected battery module (with JST connector, im assuming you mean this one), or the MWS Panasonic 3.7v 3400mAh protected pack with JST connector. These 2 options are intended for internal use with a recharge port and the smart charger, and not compatible with the single charger.

    If you are intending to use a loose battery cell with that single charger, please keep in mind the ones with the JST connector will not be compatible. Also, you will need to source a 18650 battery holder with leads to incorporate into your electronics. Keep in mind that "protected" cells are slightly longer than unprotected ones due to the PCB that is located at the end of the cell, and not all 18650 battery holders are made the same, some are a tighter fit than others, and placing a protected cell in one of those holders, it may be nearly impossible to remove without damaging something.
    Oh, haha. THAT is good to know. Do you have a suggestion for a good 3.7v battery to go with the rest of my list? I do not want one that I have to charge internally. And I do already have this universal battery charger. http://www.ebay.com/itm/130887528304...84.m1439.l2649

  10. #10

    Default

    Alas, my final parts list. Did I pick the right Li-Ion 18650 3.7v batt? Rather, is it the best one for those who want a rechargable li-ion that goes in a holder?


    -Tenergy Li-Ion 18650 Cylindrical 3.7V 2600mAh Flat Top Rechargeable Battery??? + holder
    -LED "TCSS style" Show blade 1" OD (32 inches)
    -Rebel Star LED & MHS Heatsink Module (blue)
    -Screw on LED blade holder style 20
    -1-1/2" x 12" Chrome sink tube
    -MHS to 1.5" sink tube adapter
    -1-3/8" Chrome end cap
    -MR soundboard (from ebay)
    -Premium Speaker
    -16mm Anti Vandal Latching Red Ring Switch
    -20mA DynaOhm™ Variable Resistor
    -26 g wire (red & black)
    -Bezel for illuminated switches
    -8-32 x .3" Gold thumb screw

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