Parts list for Luxeon tri-rebel saber.. halp. :0

[GFJedi]

You'll need two 2w 1ohms resistors so you can run the 2 blue die parallel with the 3.7v battery.

Also, since you will be running 2 main LED's, you should opt for the 3400mAh Panasonic instead of the 2600mAh pack, for a few bucks more it'll be worth it for the extra runtime between charging.

Your guarded switch should be momentary type, not latching, if i understand your potential upgrade path correctly.

If you intend to have a 32" long blade, order it to 34" long, as a few inches will be set into the blade holder.

You need to add a pommel insert and retaining ring to hold it into the pommel.

Now here is the "trick" you will need to learn. Do NOT order a standard main body piece when using a special blade holder like style 20. Order the blank 7" f/f extension with flutes, and have Tim dry fit the hilt and locate the 2 holes you need so they align properly where you want them located (aligned top/bottom/side of blade holder) This is more a cosmetic thing to make the saber look cleaner, and the price difference will be minimal. Since you already have other special work being done, this will not delay your order any more than it already will be waiting for your turn in the shop.

[Forgetful Jedi Knight]

You'll need two 2w 1ohms resistors so you can run the 2 blue die parallel with the 3.7v battery.
Your guarded switch should be momentary type, not latching, if i understand your potential upgrade path correctly.

His "upgrade path" is irrelevant here. IF he is not going to use a sound card, he needs a latching switch, unless he wants to get use to holding down a switch all the time while playing with his saber.

Also note there might be a small delay (past the usual time it takes) in custom work. Just a small heads up, so you don't get too impatient.

[GFJedi]

His "upgrade path" is irrelevant here. IF he is not going to use a sound card, he needs a latching switch, unless he wants to get use to holding down a switch all the time while playing with his saber.

Also note there might be a small delay (past the usual time it takes) in custom work. Just a small heads up, so you don't get too impatient.

He already has a 16mm "latching" a/v switch listed, the guarded one was for future use. He will need the guarded one to be momentary, not both of them latching type.

[Forgetful Jedi Knight]

OK, I missed the first AV switch.

[darkeyedkid]

I guess I'll need 3 of the 2w 1ohms resistors since I want to run all of them at the same time?? I just want them all working together at the same time. No FoC. I'm also wanting to be able to turn the sound and the led independently of each other too. So I will need two latching buttons. And if I need more hilt space, can always add an extension to the bottom. This is what I got so far. SaberBuilder_render.jpg

[Forgetful Jedi Knight]

I guess I'll need 3 of the 2w 1ohms resistors since I want to run all of them at the same time?? I just want them all working together at the same time. No FoC. I'm also wanting to be able to turn the sound and the led independently of each other too. So I will need two latching buttons. And if I need more hilt space, can always add an extension to the bottom. This is what I got so far. SaberBuilder_render.jpg

With a 3.7V battery? Nice try. You would be better off with the 2 blues in parallel.

[darkeyedkid]

K then. With each diodes voltage at 3.5 and 1000mA, what battery V might I need then to power all 3? I'd of course still need a resistor for each led. Would it still be three of the 2w 1ohms?

Another progress list. x)

Electronics

Luxeon Tri-Rebel Star (Blue/Blue/White)

Star thermal tape pad

Luxeon 18deg Tri-Rebel Star Lens

1ohm 2w resistor (3 of 'em?)

16mm Anti Vandal Latching Blue ring Switch

20mA DynaOhm™ Variable Resistor

to be announced battery (one that'll power all 3 led's simulaneously)

28-26 g wire + shrinkwrap

hilt + blade

LED "TCSS style" Battle blade 1" OD (32 inches)

MHS Extension Blank Style 3

7" Fluted with guarded style switch hole

Screw on LED blade holder style 20

MHS "new style" Heat Sink V2

SPST Latching Guarded switch with red button (for a maybe/future sound)

8-32 x .3" Gold thumb screw

MPS Pommel style 4 + inserts

Machine AV switch hole (location: On the same side of the main body as the guarded switch hole. In between the guarded switch hole and the fluted grooves.)

Bezel for illuminated switches

I think that's everything. *looks again*

[GFJedi]

Quite honestly, it sounds to me like you are trying to build an advanced saber, but trying to cut corners left and right. Why would you run separate electronics for LED only, and sound only, when you can get a nice little soundboard built to handle all of that jazz for you? If you are looking for super bright BLUE blade color, you are going to be disappointed in the color you get out of a B/B/W tri-rebel with all 3 die lit up full time. Expect more of a very cool white with a splash of blue, and depending on the binning of the actual diodes you end up with, may even be a hint of cyan/green color. This is just my own opinion, but I would suggest doing your build the right way from the start. Save up to afford a Petit Crouton, and get a power extender. Get a high mAh rating 7.4v battery pack. Learn how to wire a recharge port. Run your two blue die in parallel at 2A off the main soundboard LED connection (and use a resistor as cheap insurance). Run the white die off the power extender as a flash on clash. Those 2 blue will still be ridiculously bright even without the white on all the time, plus you get the added feature of power flicker if you want, or you can turn it off if you just want a static lit blade. The sound will be WORLDS better than what you would get off a MR/FFX board as well, plus the ability to change out your sound font package to something that is more suited to your taste. You want lights but no sound, the PC board does that too. Just hold the aux switch down when pressing the activation switch, and voila, no sound just light! The list goes on and on. Believe me when i say, you'll be glad you took it up a notch and did it the right way from the start.

[darkeyedkid]

I guess I have a lot of things to think about. I really just need to go with an MR soundboard. High quality sound and the ability to change it really isn't what I'm after honestly. I'm quite alright with an MR board. But you're right. Having one switch to do it all is better. And I think I'll do it with one switch no matter.
I do want some kind of accent light though. I can't decide if I want an a/v switch or a guarded switch and one of the little blinkies somewhere. But I can't find where the service is to drill a hole for one of those little cheap accent lights.
And I'd be very happy with even just a splash of blue if it meant brighter. > But if it will just complicate things too much I'd be happy with just the two diodes I suppose. I can't seem to find any sufficient diagrams that are similar to what I'm doing..
What do you suggest?

[Ty_Bomber]

I agree with GFjedi, darkeye. I don't want to tell you how to build your saber, but I feel obligated to tell you cutting corners doesnt work. (Trust me). Everything you want can be done, if you just invest in the right parts, have a plan, and are willing to be patient.

I understand wanting to cut costs, I do. But you will be wasting money on the path you're currently on. Improvising your way around things (like the pommel and the mute feature) usually means it isn't going to go the way you planned, which will cost you $$$.

Don't be hasty. Read a lot. Come up with a look for your saber, and make a parts list. Read a lot. If we see something and make a recommendation, consider it. Read a lot. If you are looking for a cheaper alternative, ask for one, someone here likely has a tried and tested method. Read a lot. If you have a question, use the search key. Read a lot.

You are overflowing with enthusiasm, which is awesome. Don`t blow it by cutting corners and wasting your own time and money. Your saber is going to be worth the wait.

To answer your question, I would opt for a lit av switch. They just look so much nicer and with an MR board you're not really going to get a "blinkie" effect no matter what kind of accent led you use. It will just come on and stay on once you pull the kill key.