Parts list for Luxeon tri-rebel saber.. halp. :0

[darkeyedkid]

SaberBuilder_render.jpgWelp, I've reconsidered my original plan of a 10w blue saber. Here's what I've come up with so far. I plan to bridge all the diodes together so I can just turn them all on with one switch to be as bright as can be. btw, is there much of a brightness difference between Rblue/Rblue/White and Blue/Blue/White?

I'm also not giving up on the idea of an RGB saber. If I did that I might get two more a/v ring switches, one for each color. And of course an extension to fit all those buttons and batteries and future sound boards. xP I may op out of that though due to cost. Besides, brightness is of paramount importance for this saber.


Modular

Hilt style 1 with guarded style switch hole

Screw on LED blade holder style 20

MHS "new style" Heat Sink V2

MHS Extension Blank Style 3

LED "TCSS style" Battle blade 1" OD (34 inches)

Electronics

Luxeon Tri-Rebel Star (Blue/Blue/White)

Star thermal tape pad

16mm Anti Vandal Latching Blue Ring Switch

20mA DynaOhm™ Variable Resistor

SPST Latching Guarded switch with silver button (for future sound)

28-26 g wire

Unsure of what battery pack to get. :/

[Silver Serpent]

You're missing a pommel, pommel insert, and MPS clip.

Be sure to get the drill and tap service for your AV switch. It will not fit in the guarded switch hole.

If you want to use the guarded switch for future sound, swap it for a momentary guarded switch. The aux switch on PC needs to be a momentary switch. If you go with the NB, it will only need a single momentary. None of the current sound boards use two latching switches.

If you're planning on getting a NB board in the future, go with a 3.7v li-ion pack. If you're planning on the PC, get a 7.4v li-ion pack. You'll need to calculate resistor values for your main LED accordingly. Check the link in my sig for the resistor calculator I use.

[darkeyedkid]

Thanks a heap for the advice. There are some things that I purposefully didn't put on the list, like a pommel and my a/v drill service. I actually know of a place to get some master replica soundboards for cheap. All the other boards on here are way too expensive. And I'm already getting up there in $$ for what I have. Won't a 1000 mA buckpack be good as the resistor and to make it good and bright as can be? I don't have that on my list because TCSS is out of stock. :/

[Ty_Bomber]

The buckpuck will drive your blade at an amp, but with the proper resistor or the proper soundboard, you can overdrive it up to 2amps which of course results in a brighter blade.

Still, MR and econo boards are a great way to start, buckpucks save you from hunting down the right resistor, and you can always upgrade later.

But you need a pommel dude.

[darkeyedkid]

good to know. But what resistor would overdrive it to that point? Maybe a little less than 2amps? Is overdriving it to that point going to burn it out that much faster? And I don't need to use a buckpack if I get the right resistor right?
I think I may look around for a cheaper alternative to the pommels here. :/ I may just cap it with something from ebay or home depot. x)

[Ty_Bomber]

The resistor would replace the puck yes. The extra current wouldn't noticeably decrease the life of that led, as the blues love current. As for which resistor would give you 2 amps, I'll let you figure that out for yourself. I can't spoonfeed everything for you

Lastly, how are you planning on securing your alternative pommel? Your hilt piece is already threaded, and you won't find a more secure solution, especially if you want to get access to your electronics again down the line. Tim's parts may add up in cost, butthe quality cant be beat.

If your budget is so tight that it has you constantly looking for cheaper alternatives, maybe consider a sinktube for your main body piece and get the adapters for your blade holder and pommel. It would be more durable and affordable than replacing the pommel with something else, and would likely look a lot better in the end too. Just some food for thought.

[Silver Serpent]

PVC works well for sabers as well. Properly sanded and painted, a PVC saber can look just as good as a metal saber, at a fraction of the price.

This is not a cheap hobby, but the parts in the TCSS store are worth every penny.

[darkeyedkid]

thanks for the info people. haha, bomber, I wouldn't expect you to.
I may end up just getting the cheapest pommel on here.

[mikec]

Unsure of what battery pack to get. :/

What is your target current draw for each die?

What is the forward voltage of each of your led die at this current?

How much space do you have in your hilt, after subtracting the real estate for the heatsink and AV switch?

The answers to these questions will help you determine your battery pack, and maybe even re-plan your hilt requirements.

Also, if you are running an AV style switch: a short bezel is strongly recommended for securing the nut inside the hilt by providing a flat mating surface (two if you don't get a recessed mount switch hole milled)

[darkeyedkid]

Another progress list. x)

Electronics

Luxeon Tri-Rebel Star (Blue/Blue/White)

Star thermal tape pad

Luxeon 18deg Tri-Rebel Star Lens

1ohm 2w resistor

16mm Anti Vandal Latching Blue ring Switch

20mA DynaOhm™ Variable Resistor

Li-Ion 18650 3.7V 2600mAh PCB Protected Rechargeable Battery Module + Single 18650 Li-Ion charger

28-26 g wire + shrinkwrap

hilt + blade

LED "TCSS style" Battle blade 1" OD (32 inches)

MHS Extension Blank Style 3

7" Fluted with guarded style switch hole

Screw on LED blade holder style 20

MHS "new style" Heat Sink V2

SPST Latching Guarded switch with red button (for a maybe/future sound)

8-32 x .3" Gold thumb screw

MPS Pommel style 4

Machine AV switch hole (location: On the same side of the main body as the guarded switch hole. In between the guarded switch hole and the fluted grooves.)

Bezel for illuminated switches

I think that's everything. *looks again*