Page 1 of 2 1 2 LastLast
Results 1 to 10 of 15

Thread: first lightsaber

  1. #1

    Default first lightsaber

    Hi, I am making my first lightsaber/ electronic project. At the moment, I am just getting the electronics down, so If I can get some feedback on the wiring portion, that would be great. I was told because I am using Master Replicas Luke Skywalker Sound Board that I dont need a resistor for the main Seoul4 green led because of build in resistors, but the issue is now that I kinda want to put in a 16mm Anti Vandal Latching Green Ring Switch. I got a variable resistor for this connection, however I just dont know where to link it. From my research I think it gets connected from the pos and neg leads on the led. If you can correct me, that would be fantastic. just for reference, I have a few pics of the soundcard and a slefmade diagram what the wires are currently are. also got these electronic components
    Seoul P4 Lens Holder
    Collimator Lens 5 deg viewing angle
    Seoul P4 (Green)
    MHS speaker mount V3
    16mm Anti Vandal Latching Green Ring Switch
    Star thermal tape pad
    20mA DynaOhm™ Variable Resistor
    4AA Battery holder
    http://s119.photobucket.com/user/Jay...187-1.jpg.html
    http://i1316.photobucket.com/albums/...ps8bdd4a1e.png

  2. #2
    Youngling madmaxx's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2012
    Location
    Dagobah Brisbane
    Posts
    205

    Default

    welcome aboard. the only thing that i could see being a problem is the 4aa battery holder. unless it's a long 2 x2 it won't fit in the hilt. try a 3 aaa holder you can get them in a cylinder form and they will fit nicely. short of that use 2 aa li-ions
    ....Don't fear the Reaper....
    ....He's just a Sith Lord that has lost his lightsaber....


  3. #3

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by madmaxx View Post
    welcome aboard. the only thing that i could see being a problem is the 4aa battery holder. unless it's a long 2 x2 it won't fit in the hilt. try a 3 aaa holder you can get them in a cylinder form and they will fit nicely. short of that use 2 aa li-ions
    Yea I got the 2x2 in order to fit the MHS speaker mount V3 so all the electronics fit nicely together. But am I correct with connecting the 16mm Anti Vandal Latching Green Ring Switch to the Seoul P4 using the extra outputs? I just want to be reassured on this one aspect so I make sure I dont fry everything... :P

  4. #4
    Youngling madmaxx's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2012
    Location
    Dagobah Brisbane
    Posts
    205

    Default

    from what i know the resistor should be before the positive connection on the actual green led otherwise it is useless .you want the resistor to resist some of the forward voltage to the led so it doesn't blow it.
    ....Don't fear the Reaper....
    ....He's just a Sith Lord that has lost his lightsaber....


  5. #5

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by madmaxx View Post
    from what i know the resistor should be before the positive connection on the actual green led otherwise it is useless .you want the resistor to resist some of the forward voltage to the led so it doesn't blow it.
    Thing is I asked someone before about how everything will connect together, and they said the board already has resistors for the main led so the correct flow goes into it, so I am guessing that I could just go like this then Bored-purple wire (pos for clash and led)- variable resistor- swith- neg leads to bored? sorry and thanks for responding

  6. #6
    Youngling madmaxx's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2012
    Location
    Dagobah Brisbane
    Posts
    205

    Default

    ok i see what you are getting at. that part i'm not too sure about. i don't have any experience with master replica boards but i don't think you can do that. i would try running the led in the switch off of the actual ignition switch wiring with the resistor instead of from the main led. don't quote me on it though... sorry that i can't help you on this.
    ....Don't fear the Reaper....
    ....He's just a Sith Lord that has lost his lightsaber....


  7. #7

    Default

    Oh its totally fine, thank you for responding though! I just thought since the wiring on this board were straight forward so there wouldnt be a problem/snag getting the result I wanted... lel. In your suggestion though, do you think there will be enough power in splitting the pos activation wire to power the led and actual switch? Again, thank you for just responding and helping me out

  8. #8
    Youngling madmaxx's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2012
    Location
    Dagobah Brisbane
    Posts
    205

    Default

    i reckon if you went switch resistor led it should work...if you have a multi meter then check the forward voltage to the switch and go from there. the resistor will protect the board in any case so at the very least it will just not work i suppose
    ....Don't fear the Reaper....
    ....He's just a Sith Lord that has lost his lightsaber....


  9. #9

    Default

    You can use the resistor on the switch then wire it up with the main led from the board......hope that helps to clarify

  10. #10

    Default

    yea i just got an image from another thread saying this is a good way to go.... idk if this is what you guys mean, but i just figure ill put it up here to just spread awareness, just in case
    100_5109.jpg if it is not going up right, idk why its acting up a little myself here is the link to the thread that has the photo
    http://forums.thecustomsabershop.com...agram&p=224918

    thank you all for writing and your help

Bookmarks

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •