So, then we start. "Elesett" or "The Fallen".

[KnightMoritz]

Hello guys

I spent few last days trying to get That vision of my very first own lightsaber, some first ideas are Here.

A few hours ago it just came up to me. Simple, one-handed, full MHS design with some personalisation.



So, at first it was like...
qOlGDdc (1).jpg

but then, after some graphics:


Part list:
-Pommel style 3
-4inch 2x fluted 2xfemale connector
-Ribbed choke combo
-LED blade holder style 1
-Rebel Star LED & MHS Heatsink Module (Amber)
-1x 16mm Anti Vandal Latching Amber Ring Short Switch
-1x 16mm Anti Vandal Momentary Orange Ring Short Switch
-Nano Biscotte
-2W Bass Speaker
-7,4v Li-Ion battery
-8-32 x .3" black thumb screw
-Custom D-ring
-MAYBE 40" x 1" dueling blade, but not shorter than 36"
-Custom chassis, but that will be designed after all the parts I need are in my hands.

I'm thinking also about killswitch and a recharge port- maybe all in line with aux and power buttons.

That's about it for the moment, i'm going to update when I got the parts.

[amwolf]

If you're going with the Nano, you'll need a 3.7v battery, not the 7.4 pack; also you wouldn't need the latching switch unless you were wiring it in as a kill switch since the Nano runs off a solo momentary. Your forward "button" (I assume it's a switch) is sitting right in the thread zone, which may be problematic... I like the basic design, and look forward to seeing your weathering/painting process.

[KnightMoritz]

Thanks for the reply.

Yes, I meant 3,7v but in my country it's now 4AM, and i'm quite tired

Yes, that's the switch and it's in the thread zone- I placed it in there on purpose. It will block that 2 parts solid. I know it's weird solution, but I think it'll do...

Hmmm, I missed that part about switches in pdf file of Nano, the second one could be a killswitch. I like it when there are more than one button to press :>

On monday i'm going to my local electronic temple to see how many parts I can get in my country (money, money, money).

[GFJedi]

If you like buttons to push, theres nothing that says you cant just slap a bunch of dummy switches on your hilt and leave them disconnected. Make others guess what they are all supposed to do...

[Yoshi-Taka]

That would get super confusing if they were all the exact same style switch.
"I know one of these switches will turn it.... on. There we go!"

[Forgetful Jedi Knight]

Thanks for the reply.

Yes, that's the switch and it's in the thread zone- I placed it in there on purpose. It will block that 2 parts solid. I know it's weird solution, but I think it'll do...

Yeah, it'll also make it very easy for you to mess up two parts and have to replace them. Cross-threading and other "problems" can and have occurred by those who have tried that in the past. There is a reason why Tim, and many other senior people like us don't recommend what you are thinking. I'd hate for you to find out about that the hard way.

Also, by doing that, you will be making your installation considerably harder, and considering you've never built one before, I really have to question why you would make your life harder right out of the gate.

[KnightMoritz]

Laughed so hard GFJedi, Yoshi-Taka, really! But it's the point about the switches doing something. Making coffee? Lunch? Calling 911? Sure, that's nice idea

Anyway, maybe you're right about that, forgetful jedi knight. Well, i'll think of it when it comes to drill the holes. If all electronics fit with the switches in standard position, than i'll make my life easier :>

[Crystal Chambers]

The short swith might not even make it through the MHS to have thread to fasten the nut,

[Forgetful Jedi Knight]

The short swith might not even make it through the MHS to have thread to fasten the nut,

Which is another good point.

[KnightMoritz]

I did my research, but never found any answers.

What is the difference between the NBSD-L and the NBSD-D?