First saber

[Wardarth]

Tim sells blade plugs in the TCSS Store. They are kinda obscure to find, so here is the link...

http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/1-...plug-P571.aspx

Ah cool thanks

[Wardarth]

Final checklist before i order it:

7" Fluted with guarded style switch hole

Screw on LED blade holder style 20

MPS Pommel style 7

Main Body Powder Coating (Wet Black) (DFS2)

Blade Holder Powder Coating (Extreme Chrome) (B201)

Pommel Powder Coating (Extreme Chrome) (PM71)

Rebel Star LED & MHS Heatsink Module

LED "Corbin style" Show blade 1" OD (36 inches)

8-32 x 1/2" thumb screw

Drill & Tap Hole (8-32)

MPS Insert style 6

1/8" Adhesive lined heatshrink tubing

MPS Clip

20mA DynaOhm™ Variable Resistor

Super Lube Synthetic Grease

1" Hilt safety plug (Clear)

16mm Anti Vandal Latching Red Ring Switch

Activation box style 19

Box 19 Mounting holes service

Grand total of $230.02 which is WAY less that what i was expecting.

[GFJedi]

You need a battery holder, or a rechargeable battery pack if you plan to power up your saber. And a recharger of some sort if you go with a rechargeable pack.

You need a something to regulate power to your main led (resistor, buckpuck, driver board, etc...). My suggesting if you are using regular batteries is to go with the buckpuck, but thats just my opinion.

Also, which AV switch are you using, the long or the short model? The long model may be a tight squeeze in the hilt with box 19.

I assume you are using box 19 for future upgrading, if so, you should add one of the small switches, and a recharge port to your parts list now, this will keep the box from looking unfinished without anything in those 2 spaces. For the extra $5 or so your saber will look more complete, even if they don't really do anything at this time. You also need a 4-40 button head screw to mount the box on the main body.

One idea for you, is as you build your checklist, build it like you would be building your saber. Say something like this:

.Main body - 7" fluted
....Blade Holder 20
....Pommel 7
.......Pommel insert 6
.......Pommel clip
....Activation Box 19
.......AV switch - latching - red led
..........DynaOhm 20mA
.......Momentary Switch 20 or 21
.......Recharge Port
.......4-40 button head screw

As you can see if you outline the build, makes it easier to catch all the items you will need, like on the activation box where it needs multiple items placed in it.

I hope I didn't just confuse you more.

[Wardarth]

Ohkay. One day I will understand all of this but until then I apologise for leaving out such obviously necessary components like batteries to power the thing.

Firstly i've chosen the
2.4V-7.2V Nimh Smart charger
AA 2600mAh NiMH Rechargeable battery
4AA Battery Holder with JST connector
for my battery system.

The combined voltage with all 4 batteries is 4.8v and from what i've read that JST connection of the battery pack is designed to work with the Rebel Star LED & MHS Heatsink Module. The charger works with any NIMH batteries so that's no problem.

The only thing i'm unsure of is how much voltage the Rebel Star module is designed for.

For regulating the power, I was going to add the buckpuck that i mentioned before however it is out of stock atm so thanks for reminding me i'd forgotten. Noticing what you said that if I am using regular batteries then i should go with the buckpuck, is there any electronic reason for saying regular batteries? By that I mean does the buckpuck work with rechargeable ones?

About your comment on which AV switch i'm using(which until you asked i wasn't aware there was more than one type lol), it's stated on the AV switches that the long version is the only one that can work with box 19 so even if it will be a tight fit i want to stick with that one.

Yet another great idea that I didn't think of about getting the other components now for the box. I had a look at the picture of the box and I saw what looked like a Switchcraft 2.1mm Power Jack at the bottom? I've added one of the Black momentary switches aswell.
I've also added the 4-40 screw to the cart.

Following your idea this is the checklist reorganised minus the buckpuck which is out of stock.

HILT COMPONENTS

7" Fluted with guarded style switch hole

Box 19 Mounting holes service

Activation box style 19

4-40 Button Head

16mm Anti Vandal Latching Red Ring Switch

Black momentary switch

Switchcraft 2.1mm Power Jack

Main Body Powder Coating (Wet Black) (DFS2)



BLADE HOLDER COMPONENTS

Screw on LED blade holder style 20

Drill & Tap Hole (8-32)

8-32 x 1/2" thumb screw

Blade Holder Powder Coating (Extreme Chrome) (B201)

1" Hilt safety plug (Clear)

LED "Corbin style" Show blade 1" OD (36 inches)


POMMEL COMPONENTS

MPS Pommel style 7

MPS Insert style 6

MPS Clip

Pommel Powder Coating (Extreme Chrome) (PM71)


ELECTRONIC COMPONENTS

Rebel Star LED & MHS Heatsink Module

20mA DynaOhm™ Variable Resistor

AA 2600mAh NiMH Rechargeable battery

4AA Battery Holder with JST connector

2.4V-7.2V Nimh Smart charger


MISC

Super Lube Synthetic Grease

1/8" Adhesive lined heatshrink tubing

[GFJedi]

The buckpuck wouldn't be very reliable with the 4.8v NiMh, it prefers to be fed 5v+ to operate properly (which 4xAA or 4xAAA would provide, hence my comment about regular batteries). The Rebels all require less than 4.8v to operate, so you shouldn't be concerned with that, but you DO need to use a properly sized resistor to limit the current thru the LED so it doesn't just go POOF. There are many very simple resistor calculators online you can use to determine which one you need. All you have to do is input your supply voltage, led voltage and led mA rating. The LED information is available right on the store page with the loose rebel stars.

You can easily substitute the 6 wire version buckpuck for the 4 wire version, you just simply leave the potentiometer leads disconnected, or clip them off near the module and pretend they don't exist, problem solved.

I am fairly certain that the short AV switch WILL fit box 19, as they have the same thread pitch and diameter of the long ones, and will just thread into the box the same. There is no comment on the product page saying only the long ones fit it. It says the box will only fit onto a 3" or longer un-threaded section of hilt, and that is just because the activation box is so long to accommodate so much stuff, and a screw to hold it in place.

Both the generic recharge port, and the switchcraft are pretty much the same, the switchcraft some will say is slightly higher quality, but its up to you, both work fine.


Otherwise, your list is nicely organized, but you should move the dynaohm up and keep it with the illuminated switch since they go together, and place the buckpuck or resistor with your main LED. If you plan to use the NiMh batteries, you probably should just stick with the simple resistor for now, but if you want to bump up to a battery supply over 5v then the buckpuck would be a good choice, will regulate the output of your blade LED to hold a more consistent brightness, and potentially extend battery life.

[Wardarth]

The simplest fix for the voltage seems to be to switch to the 6 AA holder with a total of 7.2v. I'm not sure if it would fit in the saber with everything else though.

If I do get the 6 holder, i'll need to get a 9V connector.

I'd rather get the buckpuck now for the better brightness and longer battery life rather than buying it later which I know i would.

This is my first attempt at electronic logic so please be kind. The 7.2v goes from the batteries to the buckpuck first since it needs 5v minimum to function correctly, and then the buckpuck distributes it throughout the module? If that's correct then all that leaves is the AV switch. That takes 2.1 volts so do i need a resistor or is .3v within an acceptable margin?

Thanks for letting me know I can use the 6 wire buckpuck, ill just grab that then.

The reason i was worried about the switches is because out of the 3 different versions only one of them says Box style's 2-6,9-14,17-19, and Bezel for illuminated switches. The other two only say Box style's 2-6 and Bezel for illuminated switches. Although it did seem odd to me that they are compatible on 5 of the boxes but not the others so thanks.

[GFJedi]

You are thinking of voltage the wrong way. The buckpuck is not just consuming 5v of you supply leaving you 2v to use elsewhere. You want to supply adequate voltage to power EACH of the components (not all of them collectively added together) and the mAh rating of the power supply is what will determine how long everything can stay powered on, but you need to use resistors to limit the current flowing thru the components. The DynaOhm makes it easy because its designed to allow 20mA to the illuminated av switch, it doesn't matter if you give it 2.2 or 7.2 volts. When you get into fixed resistors with a set value is when you need to calculate which one you need. Same with the buckpuck for the blade led, it's fixed to 700mA or 1000mA depending which one you buy, perfect for the single color rebel stars, just be sure of the mA rating of the color led you are using and buy the correct buckpuck.

[Silver Serpent]

The simplest fix for the voltage is actually to switch over to a pair of li-ion batteries. Two li-ions give you 7.2v by themselves, along with a great runtime. You will need to get a li-ion charger if you go that route, since li-ion technology is not compatible with NiMH chargers.

Sadly, li-ions can't be shipped overseas right now due to some restrictions from the USPS. You'll have to source them yourself if you choose to go that route.

[Wardarth]

The simplest fix for the voltage is actually to switch over to a pair of li-ion batteries. Two li-ions give you 7.2v by themselves, along with a great runtime. You will need to get a li-ion charger if you go that route, since li-ion technology is not compatible with NiMH chargers.

Sadly, li-ions can't be shipped overseas right now due to some restrictions from the USPS. You'll have to source them yourself if you choose to go that route.

I was originally thinking using the Li-Ions would be easiest, but the fact I can't import em over here is why I didn't mention them. Since I don't know a thing about electronics i'd rather buy off of this site rather than risk getting the wrong batteries and blowing the saber to pieces.

[Wardarth]

You are thinking of voltage the wrong way. The buckpuck is not just consuming 5v of you supply leaving you 2v to use elsewhere. You want to supply adequate voltage to power EACH of the components (not all of them collectively added together) and the mAh rating of the power supply is what will determine how long everything can stay powered on, but you need to use resistors to limit the current flowing thru the components. The DynaOhm makes it easy because its designed to allow 20mA to the illuminated av switch, it doesn't matter if you give it 2.2 or 7.2 volts. When you get into fixed resistors with a set value is when you need to calculate which one you need. Same with the buckpuck for the blade led, it's fixed to 700mA or 1000mA depending which one you buy, perfect for the single color rebel stars, just be sure of the mA rating of the color led you are using and buy the correct buckpuck.

Heh I don't think i wrote it out correctly but I meant to say what you said. The components don't drain the power as they go, the current simply passes through them powering them and then continues along the circuit. The only way to reduce it is with a resistor or a component designed to limit the mA like the buckpuck.

So from what you're saying, the 700 buckpuck and the DynaOhm are all i need then? I don't need to worry about calculating any resistors because the buckpuck limits it for the LED and the DynaOhm limits it for the switch?