First saber

[GFJedi]

Yes the 700mA is correct for the reds, orange, amber LEDs. The rest of the rebel singles use the 1000mA.

I would give it the weekend now to see if anyone else chimes in, your order probably won't ship until early next week anyways now that's Friday. Gives you a little time to be sure you have everything you "want"

[Silver Serpent]

I don't see any issues here. There should be more than enough room in that saber to allow a sound upgrade in the future.

[Wardarth]

good idea. Again thankyou so much for the help, i really appreciate it.

[madmaxx]

where abouts in australia are you? im in brisbane if it helps

[Wardarth]

where abouts in australia are you? im in brisbane if it helps

about 40 mins west of melbourne

[madmaxx]

well thats a lot closer than america..the only problem i have with this hobby is that most of the parts have to be sourced from overseas.Li-ion batteries you can get on ebay for a decent price but if you want to make battery packs then you need to order the PCB from Tim here because his PCBs are different tolerances to the ones i've found online elsewhere.Wiring is fine just go to a Jaycar store and buy it there along with alot of the switches that i see on this site.The sound boards if you want one can only be found online.Ebay for hasbro econo boards or novasound boards( both cheap and you get what you pay for) or high end boards from plecterlabs or even Niagon or now from this site also.The rest unless you have access to a metal lathe must be ordered on this site or other similar sites worldwide.There are plenty of tutorials on here so if you have ever put together a flatpack cupboard then its simply a matter of follow the instructions and then turn it on and see if it goes woosh.
Dont't try to make the first one too complex because inside hilt space fills up real quick if your not careful and remember that batteries take up alot of space.Make sure you keep the wire colouring uniform(red +, black -) or it will get very confusing very quickly and last but not least DONT look into the LED because it can severely damage your retina..it is a type 2 class laser emitting diode so please be careful with it.
Other than that dont cut off your fingers,dont get it wet and never feed it after nidnight....errr that sounds about right

[Onli-Won Kanomi]

One thing I'd recommend adding to your list is the small tube of thread grease in the TCSS store:
http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/Su...ease-P426.aspx

You only need to apply a small amount on the threads but trust me if you don't use it and bare threaded parts get 'stuck' [uh...not that that has ever happened to me... it certainly didn't happen on a one of a kind custom hilt from one of the hobby's most eminent sabersmiths...nope... ] you'll definitely wish you'd spent the 40 cents the grease costs and vow to always use thread grease from now on...so better imo to just learn to use it from the start eh?

[Wardarth]

One thing I'd recommend adding to your list is the small tube of thread grease in the TCSS store:
http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/Su...ease-P426.aspx

You only need to apply a small amount on the threads but trust me if you don't use it and bare threaded parts get 'stuck' [uh...not that that has ever happened to me... it certainly didn't happen on a one of a kind custom hilt from one of the hobby's most eminent sabersmiths...nope... ] you'll definitely wish you'd spent the 40 cents the grease costs and vow to always use thread grease from now on...so better imo to just learn to use it from the start eh?

If in doubt, lube! Thanks mate.

[Wardarth]

well thats a lot closer than america..the only problem i have with this hobby is that most of the parts have to be sourced from overseas.Li-ion batteries you can get on ebay for a decent price but if you want to make battery packs then you need to order the PCB from Tim here because his PCBs are different tolerances to the ones i've found online elsewhere.Wiring is fine just go to a Jaycar store and buy it there along with alot of the switches that i see on this site.The sound boards if you want one can only be found online.Ebay for hasbro econo boards or novasound boards( both cheap and you get what you pay for) or high end boards from plecterlabs or even Niagon or now from this site also.The rest unless you have access to a metal lathe must be ordered on this site or other similar sites worldwide.There are plenty of tutorials on here so if you have ever put together a flatpack cupboard then its simply a matter of follow the instructions and then turn it on and see if it goes woosh.
Dont't try to make the first one too complex because inside hilt space fills up real quick if your not careful and remember that batteries take up alot of space.Make sure you keep the wire colouring uniform(red +, black -) or it will get very confusing very quickly and last but not least DONT look into the LED because it can severely damage your retina..it is a type 2 class laser emitting diode so please be careful with it.
Other than that dont cut off your fingers,dont get it wet and never feed it after nidnight....errr that sounds about right

Lol thanks for the info mate, hopefully I will eventually add a soundboard to this one or even my second one should I ever make it. Is there something i can put on the end of the saber when the blade isn't in so that I don't blind myself? Although explaining that I was blinded by a lightsaber sounds pretty awesome.

(Edit) I found blade plugs that are sold by Ultrasabers, are they compatable with these sabers?

[GFJedi]

Tim sells blade plugs in the TCSS Store. They are kinda obscure to find, so here is the link...

http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/1-...plug-P571.aspx