First saber

[Wardarth]

I used another thread as a base for the items i need, I have no clue if this is even close so any help is HUGELY appreciated.

x1: 8-32 x 1/2" thumb screw

x1: LED "Corbin style" Show blade 1" OD (36 inches)
Quad Wrap
Bullet Shaped

x1: 8-32 Tap & drill set

x1: Tap handle

x1: 7" Fluted with guarded style switch hole

x1: Screw on LED blade holder style 20

x1: MHS "new style" Heat Sink V2

x1: MPS Pommel style 7

x1: Main Body Powder Coating (Wet Black) (DFS2)

x1: Blade Holder Powder Coating (Extreme Chrome) (B201)

x1: Pommel Powder Coating (Extreme Chrome) (PM71)

x1: Build Your Own Seoul P4 Electronics Kit
4AAA Battery Holder with JST connector
Seoul P4 (Red)
Collimator Lens 5° viewing angle
4.7ohm 5w resistor
(Switch07) SPST Push on/off - Mom switch with black button
Seoul P4 Lens Holder

x1: 16mm Anti Vandal Latching Red Ring Switch

x1: Red momentary switch

x1: MPS Clip

x1: MPS Insert style 6

x1: Black machined button for Covertec clip

x1: MHS speaker and 4x AAA battery holder

x1: Petit Crouton Sound Module V2.0
Light Meat

x1: 8-32 x 1/4" socket head

x1: Activation box style 19

x1: Box 19 Mounting holes service
location: Where the existing design hole goes if possible.

x1: Seoul P4 (Red)

x1: Collimator Lens 8.7 deg viewing angle

x1: Seoul P4 Lens Holder

x2: 26 gauge wire (sold by the foot) (Black)

x2: 26 gauge wire (sold by the foot) (Blue)

x2: 26 gauge wire (sold by the foot) (Brown)

x2: 26 gauge wire (sold by the foot) (Green)

x2: 26 gauge wire (sold by the foot) (Grey)

x2: 26 gauge wire (sold by the foot) (Orange)

x2: 26 gauge wire (sold by the foot) (Purple)

x2: 26 gauge wire (sold by the foot) (Red)

x2: 26 gauge wire (sold by the foot) (White)

x2: 26 gauge wire (sold by the foot) (Yellow)

saber diagram.jpg


Anything i've done wrong ie: something i do or dont need please let me know.
I have no clue whatsoever about electronics so small words are appreciated.

[GFJedi]

Whoa there, thats an awful long list of conflicting stuff. My very first suggestion looking at the list is that you are overwhelming yourself, probably due to your self admitted lack of experience. Here is a very helpful thread, that will get you going in the right direction for building your first very basic saber hilt, and give you a taste of what to expect. Go really basic like this thread outlines, and you can always upgrade the stuff you already have from that build, or start with a clean slate on the next one if you decide going custom is your thing. Along with this link, you probably want to just take some time to browse this site, and the FX forums and absorb as much info as you can.

http://forums.thecustomsabershop.com...-MHS-saber-huh

[Wardarth]

I've already had a peruse through the site and looked at a few different posts including the one you linked. I was originally just going to follow that post however as i continued looking i found the post i'm basing this selection off of.
http://forums.thecustomsabershop.com...of-help-please
After reading that i thought i could simply duplicate what he was advised to get and simply swap out the hilt, pommel and blade holder for the ones i wanted.
Thinking more about it though i think u are right, i should start small and work up.
Thanks mate.

[MrCafe]

there is a hole drilled where you can put your clip, however you will need to shorten your screw to let your blade fit.

[Wardarth]

Ok new order list working off of that post GFJedi linked. Roughly half the price!

7" Fluted with guarded style switch hole

Screw on LED blade holder style 20

MHS "new style" Heat Sink V2

MPS Pommel style 7

Main Body Powder Coating (Wet Black) (DFS2)

Blade Holder Powder Coating (Extreme Chrome) (B201)

Pommel Powder Coating (Extreme Chrome) (PM71)

Star thermal tape pad

Rebel Star LED & MHS Heatsink Module

LED "Corbin style" Show blade 1" OD (36 inches)

8-32 x 1/2" thumb screw

Drill & Tap Hole (8-32)

MPS Insert style 6

1/8" Adhesive lined heatshrink tubing

8-32 Tap & drill set

Tap handle

[Wardarth]

there is a hole drilled where you can put your clip, however you will need to shorten your screw to let your blade fit.

Fantastic thanks for the info mate.

[GFJedi]

Ok new order list working off of that post GFJedi linked. Roughly half the price!

7" Fluted with guarded style switch hole

Screw on LED blade holder style 20

MHS "new style" Heat Sink V2 - YOU CAN REMOVE THIS ITEM

MPS Pommel style 7

Main Body Powder Coating (Wet Black) (DFS2)

Blade Holder Powder Coating (Extreme Chrome) (B201)

Pommel Powder Coating (Extreme Chrome) (PM71)

Star thermal tape pad - YOU CAN REMOVE THIS ITEM

Rebel Star LED & MHS Heatsink Module

LED "Corbin style" Show blade 1" OD (36 inches)

8-32 x 1/2" thumb screw

Drill & Tap Hole (8-32)

MPS Insert style 6 - YOU NEED TO ADD A RETAINING CLIP FOR THIS

1/8" Adhesive lined heatshrink tubing

8-32 Tap & drill set

Tap handle

If you are buying a Rebel star module, it is completely pre-assembled ready to plug in. You can eliminate the extra heatsink and thermal pad.

You will need to get a retaining clip as well for the pommel insert.

You need to add a guarded latching switch and battery pack (capable of supplying more than 3v) to your parts list for the "basic" hilt.

You will need to either add a resistor for your blade LED to prevent a burnout, or a buckpuck of the proper mA rating to drive the LED.
If you choose to use the buckpuck, you need to supply a minimum of 5v for it to operate properly, but it will provide a more consistent light output and better battery life.

I'm sure more will chime in with what they see.

[Wardarth]

If you are buying a Rebel star module, it is completely pre-assembled ready to plug in. You can eliminate the extra heatsink and thermal pad.

You will need to get a retaining clip as well for the pommel insert.

You need to add a guarded latching switch and battery pack (capable of supplying more than 3v) to your parts list for the "basic" hilt.

You will need to either add a resistor for your blade LED to prevent a burnout, or a buckpuck of the proper mA rating to drive the LED.
If you choose to use the buckpuck, you need to supply a minimum of 5v for it to operate properly, but it will provide a more consistent light output and better battery life.

I'm sure more will chime in with what they see.

Is the BuckPuck 700mA 4-wire the right one for a red saber? I remember seeing that red and orange need 700 whereas the other colours are 1000. I've chosen the 7.4v Li-ion 800mAh 14500 Battery Pack to go along with the BuckPuck, again no idea if it's the right thing but at 7.4v it seems to fit the bill.

With what you said about the guarded latching switch, would i need any extra equipment to run the 16mm Anti Vandal Latching Red Ring Switch? I know i'd require a different type of drill site and either the Bezel for illuminated switches or a box to mount it but i'm not sure if i'd need any more electronic components. Looking at the info about the switch something that worries me is that it says The LED has a forward voltage of 2.1V and runs at 20mA. Does that mean those figures are the maximum i can pump through it?

As for the retaining clip i've added it and deleted the extra heatsink and thermal pad, thankyou so much for all of your help so far, i'd be doomed otherwise.

[Onli-Won Kanomi]

Yes if using an illuminated switch you will also need a separate resistor on the switch LED...you can use a resistor calculator to get the proper resistor value for the colour of LED in your switch or simply use the new 20mA Dynaohm variable resistor which is ideal for the illuminated AV switches.

[Wardarth]

aside from getting that extra resistor does the setup look ready to go?