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Thread: Wiring a NanoBiscotte

  1. #1

    Default Wiring a NanoBiscotte

    Hey guys.
    I just have a few questions and if I get the answers, I'll finally be able to complete my order on TCSS.

    1) I'm gonna run my NanoBiscotte with 4xAA 1.2v rechargeable batteries. (For a total of 4.8v) with a Green Seoul P4 (4.1V - 1000mA) and a 2w speaker. But I'm not sure about the resistor I should use. With my calculations (I followed the calculations example on the NanoBiscotte manual) I should need a 0.7W resistor but i don't think such a resistor exist. (and my calculations might be wrong)

    2) I' m gonna use a Kill Switch but I'm not sure about the way i should wire it. I'm not gonna use it as a recharge port, just as a kill switch. Should i wire it differently??

    I made this diagram but i'm not sure it is really clear. :
    http://i83.servimg.com/u/f83/11/05/33/37/diagra10.jpg

    So if someone has some hints for me, that would be nice because i'm kinda lost...
    See you.

  2. #2

    Default

    Yeah, that should work out nicely. You would need something like the 1.2 Ohm 3W resistor for your LED. The voltage you were using was the "MAX Vf", not the "typical Vf" - there is a big difference.
    TCSS MODERATOR
    All n00bs READ these first (PLEASE)!!!:
    1. Forum Guidelines
    2. FJK’s “Down and Dirty” guide to Ohm’s Law

    "Yeah, yeah, I've heard it all before... you want blindingly bright, super loud, running 1138 blinkies off of the cheapest sound card you can find AND you want all of it to run on a battery the size of a dime, and run for a very, VERY long time. That one cracks me up every time..."
    My email: fjk_tcss@yahoo.com

  3. #3

    Default

    1. Typical Vf for the green P4 is 3.25v. A 1.8Ohm resistor is recommended, though you can use the 1.2 Ohm 3W resistor recommended by FJK, and it'll overdrive the LED a bit. The P4 is fairly durable.

    2. If you only want a kill switch and don't want to use the recharge port, you can always use a latching switch on the negative wire from the battery instead. Any latching switch will work.
    We all have to start somewhere. The journey is all the more impressive by our humble beginnings.

    http://led.linear1.org/1led.wiz for the lazy man's resistor calculator!
    http://forums.thecustomsabershop.com...e-to-Ohm-s-Law for getting resistor values the right way!

  4. #4

    Default

    Thanks for the answers guys.
    So here is my new diagram :

    diagra12.jpg

    Is the resistor position ok?

    So if i get this right : I press the latching switch in "On" position ans i hear the boot sound of the NanoBiscotte. Then i press the momentary switch and this lights up the saber (with sound and everything). i press the momentary switch again : this shut down the sound and Led. I press the latching switch on "Off" position and it cuts the power to the soundboard right?
    The force is with me on the road, but I think the force ignores me when i'm doing math!

  5. #5

    Default

    That is correct.
    TCSS MODERATOR
    All n00bs READ these first (PLEASE)!!!:
    1. Forum Guidelines
    2. FJK’s “Down and Dirty” guide to Ohm’s Law

    "Yeah, yeah, I've heard it all before... you want blindingly bright, super loud, running 1138 blinkies off of the cheapest sound card you can find AND you want all of it to run on a battery the size of a dime, and run for a very, VERY long time. That one cracks me up every time..."
    My email: fjk_tcss@yahoo.com

  6. #6

    Default

    Looks right to me.
    We all have to start somewhere. The journey is all the more impressive by our humble beginnings.

    http://led.linear1.org/1led.wiz for the lazy man's resistor calculator!
    http://forums.thecustomsabershop.com...e-to-Ohm-s-Law for getting resistor values the right way!

  7. #7

    Default

    Yes that should work out very nicely with using a latching kill switch that way. And don't worry about slightly overdriving the P4...it will actually make the LED a bit brighter [you may not notice] at the cost of shortening its service lifespan [which with typical saber usage would be several decades] a tiny bit so the reduction will never be noticed...its a well proven tradeoff many of us make routinely in this hobby so either of the resistor values mentioned will be fine.

    Oh and please don't forget to post a PIC [or several] of your build when completed...we saberfans always love to see those!
    Last edited by Onli-Won Kanomi; 06-27-2013 at 03:01 AM.

  8. #8

    Default

    Ok thansk to all of you

    @ Onli-Won : Thanks for the hint. I think the P4 will hold because i'm not gonna use the saber a lot. (mainly 1 or twice a month top).
    The force is with me on the road, but I think the force ignores me when i'm doing math!

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