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Thread: Graflex No Nonsense - ANH Build - Noob Oriented

  1. #11

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    Silver-

    I think I've got this figured out. Per an online source, Voltage drop on the Seoul P4 is 3.3V. Max current is 1000 mA. Also, I measured 4V on the output of on the LEDs of the MR board. If I plug these into your calculator and using 900 mA for current (giving myself some safety factor) I show that I need a 1 ohm, 2 watt resistor.

    So, I'll put a 1 ohm resistor in line with the output on the MR board and we should be good to go.

    I wired this up tonight and everything looked good, but not sure if this was as bright as when I tested my blade straight without the MR board, but we'll see, I know my batteries are half dead.

    Here's where I got the Seoul P4 specs: http://www.led-tech.de/en/High-Power...80_121_78.html
    Last edited by engineer3.14; 06-22-2013 at 11:32 PM.
    Amateurs built the Ark, professionals built the Titanic

  2. #12

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    Some good progress tonight. Ok fellow Noobs, listen up:

    Blade assembly:

    This is not rocket science!

    1. I got the cheap clear 1" blade from TCSS - http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/1-...long-P151.aspx Also got the bullet tip with reflector.

    2. Next I went down to Micheals and got a roll of clear celophane wrap. Tim also has similar stuff in the store

    3. I took a lint free dust rag and cleaned out the inside of my blade tube and dusted off my work surface. (lint in a blade looks bad)

    4 I unrolled length of tube and wrapped it around a spare curtain rod I had sitting around. Things to remember:

    *use good scissors to cut the celophane, you want very clean cuts
    *wrap the celophane as evenly around your "ram rod" as you can.
    *you'll want 4-6 layers of the celophane on the inside of the tube for the proper effect

    5. After that I just slid the celophane into the tube with it wrapped around the rod then tapped and adjust the end.

    Here's how she looks!

    IMG_3928.jpg

    If I've missed anything, I'll leave it to the masters to correct me...
    Amateurs built the Ark, professionals built the Titanic

  3. #13

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    Seoul P4 Assembly with Graflex Blade Holder:

    So, I'm doing a Luke ANH build, so I got Tim's blade holder: http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/LE...ter--P221.aspx

    Also, not knowing how to figure out all the different LED stuff, I just went ahead and ordered the Seoul P4 kit: http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/Bu...-Kit-P469.aspx

    Here's how this little beauty goes together:

    1. Solder a ground and hot wire to the face of the LED. Make sure these can be positions to pass through two opposite holes in the LED board

    2. With that done, you can slide the heat sink from the base of the graflex blade adapter over the wires

    3. The lens that comes in the kit slides inside the little holder. It looks like it is supposed to snap into place, but I had to sand mine a bit to get everything to fit

    Here's how it looks at this point

    IMG_2533.jpg

    4. The lens and holder position over the LED with the feet that go into notches on the LED board like where the wires passed through. ***NOTE: the lens holder can only fit one way over the LED, be aware that your wires are not where the lens holder feet need to go***

    Here's how things looks:

    IMG_2534.jpg

    5. I loose fit my stuff together, then use the adhesive pad from TCSS to stick the LED to the heat sink. I left the lens holder loose, as when you screw the heat sink and LED/lens assembly in, you can tighten everything down. Plus, by not mounting the lens permanently, i can swap for a different lens in the future if needed.

    IMG_2535.jpg
    Amateurs built the Ark, professionals built the Titanic

  4. #14

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    Ok, last post for the night then I'm clocking out.

    Basic layout:

    Here's my saber guts (I have my 2 cell bottom end in the pic for reference. 3 cell end should be coming Monday):

    IMG_2538.jpg

    -holder at the front
    -battery holder with piggy backed MR board in the middle
    -extra space in the end for speaker that I have on order: http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/Pr...eaker-P77.aspx

    It will be a tight fit, but should work. I hope my pololu board is not too big, cause I'm strapped for space as it is.

    I'm open to ideas if someone knows a better way to do this!
    Amateurs built the Ark, professionals built the Titanic

  5. #15

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    Got my new speaker last night from TCSS. Sounds great!

    Have been going back and forth as to what I should do for the power supply. I've read where other guys have run these MR boards off of 6v; which is what I'd like to due such that I have max power potential for my LED, at the same time, I don't want to burn up my board by overdriving it.

    Has anyone worked with a MR 2007 Luke ANH board running it off of 6v?
    Amateurs built the Ark, professionals built the Titanic

  6. #16

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    Made lots of progress over the weekend. Including fabricating my own Graflex 3 cell bottom end. Here's the process:

    1. Start with piece of 4.6"L, 1.5" OD (.06" ID) stainless steel tube

    20130630_110006[1].jpg

    2. Had this caped with a piece of .125" thick stainless steel. (.125" is thick enough to cut threads to hold the D ring)

    3. Next I measured the old 2 cell end for the vertical portions of the slots and marked off the areas with masking tape

    20130630_110651[1].jpg

    3. Cut the vertical slot with my angle grinder (using cutoff wheel)

    20130630_111638[1].jpg

    4. Measured and cut horizontal portion of the slot. Since this is not a dueling saber, I simplied the slot. The original graflex design has an added step. My saber went together fine without using this. (sorry, missed getting a picture of this step)

    Finished end matches up very well.

    20130630_151243[1].jpg

    This was alot easier than I thought it would be. I would recommed an angle grinder for this over a dremel. The larger cutoff wheel really helped me get a smooth cut.

    p.s. You will need to do a slot on both sides of the tube.
    Last edited by engineer3.14; 07-02-2013 at 11:11 AM.
    Amateurs built the Ark, professionals built the Titanic

  7. #17

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    trying to find if anyone else is running a Luke ANH MR board off a 6v battery pack...
    Amateurs built the Ark, professionals built the Titanic

  8. #18

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    After having no luck finding a good authority to tell me if I can run my Luke ANH MR board at 6v I went ahead and wired in a voltage regulator that knocks it down to 5v.

    Things coming together...
    Amateurs built the Ark, professionals built the Titanic

  9. #19

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    I have run over fifty MR FX boards on 6volt battery packs over the years, your be fine without the regulator, it it certainly won't hurt anything.

    Got a question? Start Here. Have you tried the Thread Index yet? Most questions can be answered there.

  10. #20

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    Jay-gon-

    Thanks so much! I kinda figured, but those boards aren't cheap and I didn't want to burn mine up. Really appreciate it!
    Amateurs built the Ark, professionals built the Titanic

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