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Thread: Graflex No Nonsense - ANH Build - Noob Oriented

  1. #1

    Default Graflex No Nonsense - ANH Build - Noob Oriented

    Guys-

    Starting my build thread. This is my first, so I'm going to try and put a lot of basic info in here to help other Noobs like myself.

    Plan is to do a straight up Graflex ANH build. No crazy fancy crystals or high end fancy pants sound boards. That stuff is wicked cool, but I don't have the time or $$ for that.

    Here's my Graflex 2 cell. First order of business will be disassembly and fabrication of a 3 cell bottom end. If you've looked on ebay, a clean 3 cell Graflex will easily go for $200, I got this little beauty for half that.

    IMG_3906.jpg

    It looks like these are stainless steel. The OD on the body is 1.5", ID on the pipe is 1.370". So I've got some 1.5" stainless steel pipe coming that I'm going to cut to length and have capped by a local welding shop. If all goes well I'll have a few spare 3 cell ends.

    My research tells me the 3 cell end needs to be 4.6" long. (t-track grip is 3.6" plus 1" to go inside the clamp)

    Here's a shot of the graflex disassembled. You can see the channels I'll need to cut in the open end of the bottom portion so that it fits in the clamp.

    IMG_3907.jpg

    I've got LEDs, blade holder and other parts coming from CSS. Will post info on those when they arrived. Hope to have them over the weekend then you other Noobs can learn basic LED wiring right along with me!
    Last edited by engineer3.14; 06-20-2013 at 10:24 PM.

  2. #2

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    Real quick update.

    -Luke ANH MR soundboard is on order and should be in next week
    -Got my materials to build the 3 cell bottom end, hope to have that started before the weekend is out
    -Saw a big box on my porch that looks like its from CSS, won't know 'till tomorrow as my wife is holding it hostage as a father's day present...
    Amateurs built the Ark, professionals built the Titanic

  3. #3

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    Keep us updated.
    Are you going with a TCSS blade holder? Who are you getting the exterior greebles from?
    I have a 2-cell that I cheaply converted (static, no blade holder yet) but I've never been satisfied with the bottom end (or my adequate but rough dremeling of the slot pattern). It's "capped" but not solidly. There's no way to use a d-ring without the saber dropping. If you end up with an extra capped end, I might be interested.

  4. #4

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    Hey there Jedi Hound-

    Thanks for the interest in this project.

    Yes, I'm using the TCSS blade holder. This one:

    http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/LE...ter--P221.aspx

    As for exterior greebles, I've got grips and D-ring coming from TCSS as well. Not sure on the activation box, saving that one for later. Will try and use the red button and lens from the graflex.

    For the bottom end, my plan is to have the cap welded on so there should be no issue with it coming off when using the D-ring. Will keep you posted on that. I should have enough pipe to do 3 bottom ends.

    Got the graflex disassembled tonight. Here's pic of all the parts:

    IMG_2526.jpg

    Couple things I learned on the disassembly:

    1. You don't have to completely remove the red button, just unscrew it and let it hang
    2. You don't have to completely remove the small toggle switch on the side
    3. Regular finish nail will work to punch out the pin on the bunny ear clamp, but you have to drive it all the way through before it will come out
    4. The plastic assembly is wedged in pretty good, I smacked it out with the handle end of my screwdriver, took some pretty good jabs to get it out

    I may try and retain the big spring on the bottom end as a means to help hold everything tightly together, but we'll see. Got to figure out how to get my speaker down there and located correctly.

    Hopefully, more to come tomorrow...
    Amateurs built the Ark, professionals built the Titanic

  5. #5

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    Just dropped off stainless steel at the fabricators. Should have the 3 cell bottom end blanks done by next week.

    Will now turn my attention to the electronics. Bench tested the LED this a.m. In my excitement to see how bright it was, I forgot to hook up the resistor, lucky for me I only had it on for a moment so the LED did survive. I'm using this for my LED (Seoul P$)

    http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/Bu...-Kit-P469.aspx

    Very impressed with how bright it is. Can't wait to see it illuminating my blade.
    Last edited by engineer3.14; 06-18-2013 at 05:55 AM.
    Amateurs built the Ark, professionals built the Titanic

  6. #6

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    Ooo. Enjoying what I am reading so far. I can not wait for your next update.
    _____________,.~-{o}-~.,____________


  7. #7

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    Got my MR Luke ANH board tested last night. Wiring it up and getting sound was easier than I thought. I reviewed wiring diagrams and that along with the labels on the pcb itself made everything pretty straight forward.

    IMG_2527_zpsdce1d616.jpg

    Here's where I got my wiring help:

    http://forums.thecustomsabershop.com...iring-Diagrams


    I found this lens from a cheap LED worklight that I had. I should be able to cut the bubble off for my activation box.

    IMG_2528_zpsd30ba955.jpg

    After trying (with no success) to find a push on push off switch to go under my red button, I went ahead and ordered this guy:

    http://www.pololu.com/catalog/product/751

    Should work pretty good.

    So my MR board needs 4.5V, and my Seoul LED needs 6 volts, anyone have a good circuit to get these two guys to play nice? Don't want to wreck my pololu switch either...
    Last edited by engineer3.14; 06-20-2013 at 10:26 PM.
    Amateurs built the Ark, professionals built the Titanic

  8. #8

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    What Seoul LED do you have? I don't know of any that need 6v. If you got one of the P4 LEDs from TCSS, then they'll hook right into the MR board. The board does a fine job driving the LED by itself.
    We all have to start somewhere. The journey is all the more impressive by our humble beginnings.

    http://led.linear1.org/1led.wiz for the lazy man's resistor calculator!
    http://forums.thecustomsabershop.com...e-to-Ohm-s-Law for getting resistor values the right way!

  9. #9

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    Silver-

    thanks for the note!

    I got this kit from tcss:

    http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/Bu...-Kit-P469.aspx

    It comes with a holder for 4 AA cells. With the resistor, I measured 5.6V out on my meter. The MR board takes a 4.5V input (3 AA cells), not sure I wanted to loose the brightness going from 5.6V down to 4.5V but maybe I'm splitting hairs?
    Amateurs built the Ark, professionals built the Titanic

  10. #10

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    The P4 blues and greens have a typical Vf of 3.25, with a maximum rating of 4v. Measure the voltage drop across the LED alone, and you can find the exact Vf of your LED.

    As I recall, when working with the MR boards, you don't typically need a resistor for the main LED. You can check the LED output lines on the board to be sure its in a safe range.

    The resistor you are using has been calculated assuming that there is no sound board involved, and that the LED will be receiving the full 6v of the battery pack. When you are using the sound board, this is no longer the case.
    We all have to start somewhere. The journey is all the more impressive by our humble beginnings.

    http://led.linear1.org/1led.wiz for the lazy man's resistor calculator!
    http://forums.thecustomsabershop.com...e-to-Ohm-s-Law for getting resistor values the right way!

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