Wiring Diagram Check (& related questions)

**Cire Yeldarb** · 05-30-2013, 11:39 PM

Hello all!
So for my first saber, I went simple: led, switch, buckpuck, AAA batteries.
For this one, I want to get more fancy and add sound because what is a saber without it. SO basically I decided to with the pre-wired PC board, pre-wired guarded style latching switch, pre-wired Red-Orange LED (trying to make things simple here haha), premium speaker, black momentary aux switch, a li-ion battery pack, and accompanying power jack. And a few JST extension cables to put the rest together.

Can you please double check and make sure I have this setup right though? I want to make sure I am getting this right, cause it all seems like it should be pretty simple with the pre-wiring and all... (Green Circles are supposed to be JST connections to be made, Blue Circles are meant to be places I must solder). Also, I opted out of an Accent LED so that JST extension is X-ed out
Wiring Map Connections.jpg

My main question though is which battery pack should I buy? Cause the PC manual said either an 18650 or a 14500, but I don't know which one is better for the setup I have?

so 1) Is the General setup mostly correct?
2) Should I buy the 7.4v Li-ion 2600mAh 18650 Battery Pack, 7.4v Li-ion 1600mAh 14500 Battery Pack, or 7.4v Li-ion 800mAh 14500 Battery Pack (or one I overlooked)?
3) If I understand correctly, I do not need a resistor for the LED with the PC board, right?
4) If I did want an accent LED, I would just have to connect it and the appropriate Resistor to a JST connector and plug it in to the X-ed out connector, correct?

Thank you so much for all your help!

**Silver Serpent** · 05-31-2013, 05:11 AM

1. Almost. You have the left and right "arms" on your recharge port reversed. The positive lines go on the right, and the negative to your board goes on the left.

2. Any of those packs will work. Think of the mAh value as the size of your gas tank. The larger the number, the longer you can go without needing to fill up. I recommend getting the largest one that will fit inside your saber. Just as an fyi, 18650s are BIG. A 2x 18650 stick pack takes up a lot of room.

3. Correct. You set the desired current value in your PC settings on the SD card (or with R.I.C.E.).

4. Correct.

**Cire Yeldarb** · 05-31-2013, 10:47 AM

1) Oh okay, I see what happened there, I mirror-imaged the "battery setup" part to get it to fit in nicely in the empty space of the main map, and forgot that would swap the wire locations, thanks for the Correction!

2) Ohhhhhh, I get it now, thanks! And wow, yeah the 18650 is really big, looked at the dimensions and I don't think that'll fit in with the speaker and everything the way I want to set it up, at least not nicely anyway... guess I'll be going with the "7.4v Li-ion 1600mAh 14500 Battery Pack" then

3) Awesome, thanks!

4) And cool. One more question about that then (probably for my next saber) : Picking out the resistor seems easy with one of the calculators I found perusing the boards here, but for the source voltage on it, do I use the 7.4 of the battery pack, or do I use 3.3 because of the PC (I thought I read somewhere on here that the PC brings the voltage down to 3.3 for the accent LED, but can't find the post anymore) ?

**Silver Serpent** · 05-31-2013, 11:03 AM

The accent LED pads are 3.3v, so plug that into the "Source Voltage" value.

There are other ways of wiring in accent LEDs, and some of them will use the voltage of the battery pack. But if you're using the prewired accent LED pads, then 3.3v is the number you want to use.

**Cire Yeldarb** · 05-31-2013, 11:43 AM

Awesome sauce, thank you so much SS!

**Cire Yeldarb** · 07-03-2013, 08:50 AM

So due to me switching from the Petit Crouton to the Nano Biscotte, I redid my wiring diagram yesterday while at work using Paint.

Still going with the "Rebel Star LED & MHS Heatsink Module (Red-Orange)", "Premium Speaker", and "2.1mm PowerJack" in my setup, but Battery is now the "Panasonic Li-Ion 18650 3.7V 3400mAh PCB Protected Rechargeable Battery", the switch is now "MWS Momentary Guarded switch with silver button Switch09"and LED resistor is the "2.2ohm 5w resistor".

I realize the Cables on the battery are wired to the wrong "arms" of the recharge port/kill switch still, as they were in my last diagram, I will switch that when I have more time.

Besides that, anything else you notice?

NB - Wiring Map Connections.jpg

and random question so I do not have to start a new thread: I had some powder coating in my cart that was taken out yesterday because the "part became out of stock" Do I just have to check back everyday until I see it is back in stock again, or is there any way for me to be able to tell when it might be back in stock and available for me to place my order?

Thanks again in advance!