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Thread: My first build for a Revan Saber.

  1. #1

    Default My first build for a Revan Saber.

    Well here is my first build. Am I missing anything? In case I am what do I need?

    MWS Pre-Wired Nano Biscotte Sound Module

    MHS speaker and 2x AA battery holder x1

    JST Extension x2

    JST connectors

    Tenergy Li-Ion 14500 Rechargeable AA size 3.7V 800mAh x4

    Dual 24 gauge wire x4

    Pommel Powder Coating (PM31)

    Hilt style 1 with standard style switch hole

    Screw on LED blade holder style 18

    MHS ribbed extension

    MPS Pommel style 3 v1

    MPS Insert style 6

    16mm Anti Vandal Momentary Nickel Plated Switch

    8-32 x 1/4" Set screw

    Machine recessed AV switch hole
    Price: $10.00
    location: Same location for switch hole on Hilt style 1.

    Drill & Tap Hole (8-32)
    Price: $7.50
    location: Centered in main groove area.

    Blade Holder Powder Coating (B181)

    Extension Powder Coating (RIB3)

    Seoul P4 LED & MHS Heatsink Module

  2. #2
    Jedi Padawan Starwinder's Avatar
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    Default

    Looks pretty solid. If you're using Li-Ions in a 2x AA battery setup though, you'll want to get a dummy cell since the NB only needs the 3.7V of one battery to run.
    Also do you want a covertech wheel or D-ring for attaching to your belt? Completely optional of course.
    --------------------------Cadence--------------------------

  3. #3

    Default

    MPS clip for holding your pommel insert in place.

    Also a li-ion charger, if you don't already have one.
    We all have to start somewhere. The journey is all the more impressive by our humble beginnings.

    http://led.linear1.org/1led.wiz for the lazy man's resistor calculator!
    http://forums.thecustomsabershop.com...e-to-Ohm-s-Law for getting resistor values the right way!

  4. #4

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    Charger check!

    I just realized I need a buck puck. The P4 says 800mAh but the puck only has 1000 and 700. Which one should I get? And what is overdriving an led and why is that good or bad?
    Last edited by DarthBrute; 05-23-2013 at 10:49 AM.

  5. #5
    Youngling Jordandau's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2009
    Location
    North Hollywood, CA
    Posts
    220

    Default

    You don't need a driver with the nano, just the correct resistor. It's far cheaper and smaller that way.

  6. #6

    Default

    You actually can't run a buckpuck with the Nano (without some crazy wiring at least) because the Nano uses 3.7v and the puck needs a minimum of 5v. Resistors are the way to go with a Nano-based build.

    Overdriving an LED is when you run it at a higher current than it is rated for. For instance: running a 700mA LED at 1000mA, or running a 1000mA LED at 1200mA (or more). This will usually increase the brightness of the LED, at the expense of a shortened LED lifespan. You also get increased heat and a reduced runtime. Some LEDs are more tolerant than others. I know the Rebel reds used to be very intolerant of overdriving, and would actually dim or burn out if you tried.
    We all have to start somewhere. The journey is all the more impressive by our humble beginnings.

    http://led.linear1.org/1led.wiz for the lazy man's resistor calculator!
    http://forums.thecustomsabershop.com...e-to-Ohm-s-Law for getting resistor values the right way!

  7. #7

    Default

    Is that why the Ultrasabers don't hold a charge on the batteries? I have an ultra that uses the buckpuck w/ Li-Ion setup. If I leave the batteries in then they discharge over a day. I looked for wiring diagrams but I can't find anything that is really recent or I know what it is (Corbin saber?). Can you help me out? This is also my first attempt at building anything electronic.

    Ok fwd voltage is 2.5 so would I use the 2.2 ohm: http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/22...istor-P11.aspx

    or use the resistor chart? It says to use the 1.5 ohm 2 watt resistor. But has no sound card listed in the diagram. I am so confused right now. I have no idea what I am doing. But I do want to build my own.
    Last edited by DarthBrute; 05-23-2013 at 09:19 PM.

  8. #8

    Default

    The Nano doesn't have a current regulator on board, so you have to use something to regulate power. Whether you use a resistor, buckpuck, LED driver, or something else is up to you. Unfortunately, since the Nano uses a single li-ion, you can't use a buckpuck. The buckpucks won't run on less than 5v, so you'd need a minimum of 2 li-ions to power it.

    Resistors are the least expensive, and smallest solution for regulating power, and are ideal for use with a Nano-based saber build.

    I don't know why your Ultrasaber doesn't hold a charge. If it has a 2 li-ion pack and a buckpuck, it should run just fine. It may be an issue with poor quality batteries.
    We all have to start somewhere. The journey is all the more impressive by our humble beginnings.

    http://led.linear1.org/1led.wiz for the lazy man's resistor calculator!
    http://forums.thecustomsabershop.com...e-to-Ohm-s-Law for getting resistor values the right way!

  9. #9

    Default

    But how do I know what resistor to go with?

  10. #10

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by DarthBrute View Post
    But how do I know what resistor to go with?
    Sounds to me like it is time for you to get familiar with Ohm's law... Do the calculations, you must and get your answer, you will.
    TCSS MODERATOR
    All n00bs READ these first (PLEASE)!!!:
    1. Forum Guidelines
    2. FJK’s “Down and Dirty” guide to Ohm’s Law

    "Yeah, yeah, I've heard it all before... you want blindingly bright, super loud, running 1138 blinkies off of the cheapest sound card you can find AND you want all of it to run on a battery the size of a dime, and run for a very, VERY long time. That one cracks me up every time..."
    My email: fjk_tcss@yahoo.com

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