Results 1 to 7 of 7

Thread: Please help with Anti-Vandal Latching Switch.

  1. #1

    Default Please help with Anti-Vandal Latching Switch.

    I can't figure out which post on the back of the Anti-Vandal is photo (1).jpg for what.

    I am trying to use the Anti-Vandal for the first time. I am using a 4AA battery pack to a BuckPuck (1000mA) and a Rebel Star LED.

    How do I wire the Anti-Vandal into this system?

  2. #2

    Default

    The silver pins are for the LED - or you could just plug a JST connector onto them. The gold tabs are for the main switch.

    You may have to parallel wire the led part to the LED wires of the buck puck. You will need a resistor for that.
    Last edited by Forgetful Jedi Knight; 05-16-2013 at 09:32 PM.
    TCSS MODERATOR
    All n00bs READ these first (PLEASE)!!!:
    1. Forum Guidelines
    2. FJK’s “Down and Dirty” guide to Ohm’s Law

    "Yeah, yeah, I've heard it all before... you want blindingly bright, super loud, running 1138 blinkies off of the cheapest sound card you can find AND you want all of it to run on a battery the size of a dime, and run for a very, VERY long time. That one cracks me up every time..."
    My email: fjk_tcss@yahoo.com

  3. #3

    Default

    Thank you Forgetful! I got the switch to work but can not get the switch to light itself up. When you say parallel....

    The power is coming into the switch on one gold tab(in) and leaving on the other gold tab(out). Should I hook a red wire from the in to one of the pins or from the out to one of the pins? (Yes I do have a 20mA DynaOhm™ Variable Resistor)

    Sorry for the "hand holding" I need. Thank you in advance...

  4. #4

    Default

    Let me see if I can provide help with the wiring.

    If you want the switch illuminated whenever the saber has power, run a positive from battery to dynaohm, to positive lead on switch led. From there ground other pin of switch led as usual.

    If you want the switch illuminated when the blade is ignited, run a positive from the buckpuck led positive, to a dynaohm then to the positive of your switch led, then ground the switch led to the led negative on the buckpuck.

    Hope that helps!

  5. #5
    Jedi Padawan
    Sith Adept
    Jedi Padawan
    Cire Yeldarb's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2013
    Location
    United States
    Posts
    595

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by GFJedi View Post
    If you want the switch illuminated whenever the saber has power, run a positive from battery to dynaohm, to positive lead on switch led. From there ground other pin of switch led as usual.
    Hello, question about this: when you ground the other pin do you do it to the LED negative on the buckpuck or to battery negative? I would assume Battery Negative, but I just want to be sure I am understanding things correctly as I am new to all this...

    Thanks!

  6. #6

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Cire Yeldarb View Post
    Hello, question about this: when you ground the other pin do you do it to the LED negative on the buckpuck or to battery negative? I would assume Battery Negative, but I just want to be sure I am understanding things correctly as I am new to all this...

    Thanks!
    Yes, back to battery negative, so the loop stays closed when power is applied. Only the blade LED would use the buckpuck connections.

  7. #7

    Default

    One other thing, since it sounds like you are not using a recharge port, you might want to consider wiring in a manual toggle switch to open the circuit to the indicator led if you want it always on, otherwise you will constantly have to remove your batteries if you do not want the indicator light to drain them when the saber is not being used.

Bookmarks

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •