Need a little help with a blaster core project.

[morpheus1977]

So I am finally am upgrading my GOW replica lancer with a blaster core. I figured since a lot of people here use Crystal Focus boards, and they are the same concept. I was hoping somebody would be able to help me.

Ok lets see if I can explain this without my head exploding. LOL

1.The first picture shows two switches inside the clip receiver those are the two switches that currently powering the two sound cards I currently have in the lancer. I plan on using only one of those for the clip sound effects.

2. Trigger (not pictured) Kinda self speaks for it's self LOL

3.Toggle switch (currently used to go from auto to silenced mode) Will be used to go from auto to single shot.

4. Momentary button. This will be my Aux button.


To wire this thing up (if I am reading the manual correctly. For each "switch" the positive will be soldered to the respective spot on the board. Then all of the negatives will be brought together and soldered to the ground terminal.

I don't plan on adding a recharging port. This will simply use rechargeable batteries (will have access to the compartment) Will be powered with a micro on and off switch. The Blue Led's will be set up between the switch and the board so when I turn it on, the lights come on and the Blaster Core receives power.
I think for wiring I am good to go. For the sound fonts do I simply have to drag and drop them to the SD card.
I have been thinking about this all day. I hope I am right.

comments and constructive crit are always welcome.

[madmaxx]

ok firstly i know nothing that can help you out...secondly THATS A SWEETASS GUN!

[morpheus1977]

Firstly no worries, secondly thanks. I have had it for a while I do have some lighting and sound effects. I have been wanting to upgrade to a blaster core for a while. I just ordered it now I just have to wait for it to get here.

[Silver Serpent]

Sounds like you have it correct. Keep in mind that switches don't have polarity, so you don't have to figure out which end is positive or negative.

Your micro on/off switch that kills power to the whole assembly will need to be a latching switch. Feel free to put together a wiring diagram if you'd like us to doublecheck it for you.

[morpheus1977]

Sounds like you have it correct. Keep in mind that switches don't have polarity, so you don't have to figure out which end is positive or negative.

Your micro on/off switch that kills power to the whole assembly will need to be a latching switch. Feel free to put together a wiring diagram if you'd like us to doublecheck it for you.

actually since you mentioned it. I do have one I threw together. Its very crude mind you. The only thing I wasnt sure about was wiring up the bank of blue LED's

[Silver Serpent]

Looks like you're wiring up all those blue LEDs in parallel. You're going to need a resistor on each one. The resistor calculator in my sig has a version that works with multiple LEDs and will help you figure out appropriate resistors for each of them. I don't see anything wrong with the diagram.

[morpheus1977]

Looks like you're wiring up all those blue LEDs in parallel. You're going to need a resistor on each one. The resistor calculator in my sig has a version that works with multiple LEDs and will help you figure out appropriate resistors for each of them. I don't see anything wrong with the diagram.

With the electronics I have in it right now I do not have any resistors and I have not had any issues at all and I think I have it wired up the same way. Now when you say I have it wired up in Parallel that was not a Consensus decision.( I didnt say to my self i am going to wireup the blue LED's in Parallel) Could there be a better way to wire them up?

[Silver Serpent]

Parallel is fine. You could wire them up in series instead, but the voltage required to light them up will increase.

You say you have 3 AA sized rechargeable batteries in your pack. What type of batteries? NiMH, Li-ion, rechargeable alkalines? And do you know the specs on your LEDs? Forward voltage and current are needed to get the proper calculations.

[morpheus1977]

Now that I am looking at the max voltage of some of these. If I were actually using 3AA I am sure I would be burning out my LED's I might be just using 2AA. I have to open up the lancer when I get home (Hate doing that LOL)
The Blaster Core can take up to 11 volts max so I think I still will use the 3 AA rechargable batteries and just use resistors. (That is a pain in the @$$ and alot of soldering LOL) let me ask this instead of soldering a resistor to each led could I do it after the switch right before it splits off to each LED?
Ok I plan on using Energizer Rechargeable (pictured) The three types of LEDs I use

RadioShack® 4-Pin High-Brightness Power LED (Blue)
FW current (IF) (mA): 20mA
FW Supply (V)(typ.) (max.): 3.5V (typ)/4.0V(max)

Rectangular High-Brightness Blue LED Lamp
FW current (IF) (mA): 20 mA
FW Supply (V)(typical) 3.1V; maximum 3.5V

NTE30043 Blue Super-bright LED Indicator
Reverse voltage: 5V
Continuous forward current: 30mA
Peak forward current: 100mA
Power dissipation: 120mW
Operating temperature range: -25°C to 85°C
Storage temperature range: -25°C to 100°C
Lead temperature: 260°C
Forward voltage: 3.5V
Reverse current: 60 μA
Luminous intensity: 3500 mcd
Peak emission wavelength: 465 nm
Spectral line half width: 35 nm
Viewing angle: 12°

[Silver Serpent]

Ok, I'm finally able to check out the BC manual. Plecterlabs is blocked at work for some reason.

It looks like the board is designed to run on a pair of li-ions. Power range is from 5.5v to 11v. Using 1.2v NiMH cells like the ones in your pic, you'd need a minimum of 5 to run the board properly. 6 would be better. Or a 7.4v li-ion pack. I'm not sure how much room is in your weapon, so you'll have to take that into consideration. The board will run on less than 5.5 volts, but the audio amplifier won't be as happy.

Personally, I'd connect all those little LEDs onto the accent LED pads on the Blaster Core itself, and then you could have them do animated sequences. It's a little more work, but you'll have a much more impressive result when you're done.

If you'd prefer to wire them all up as they are in your diagram, you may certainly use a single resistor for all of them. Provided that all the LEDs are identical, you will calculate the resistor based off your battery pack voltage, the forward voltage of a single LED, and the combined current of all your LEDs. So if you have a 3.6v pack, 3.1v Vf, and 240mA (12 LEDs @ 20mA), you'd need a single 2.2 ohm, 1/4 watt resistor.

With parallel wiring you add current, but voltage remains the same. With series wiring you add voltages, but current remains the same.