2 New Sabers Parts List (Noob as well)

[Silver Serpent]

As far as internals go, with the PC 2.0 you'll need two switches (at least one must be momentary), your main LED, a speaker, and preferably a 7.4v li-ion pack.

The PC drives your main LED by itself, so you won't need a resistor or buckpuck on the main LED. If you want accent LEDs, illuminated AV switches, etc., then you'll need resistors for those.

The aux switch on the PC must be momentary. The main switch can be either momentary or latching, and you configure it in the settings on the PC's SD card.

Read through the PC manual a couple times, if you haven't already. You can find it here: http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/Pe...-V20-P612.aspx

[SilverLiquid]

Thanks for the info. I've been reading through it and still can't make up my mind between the NB and the PC. The cost is almost double and I'm not sure Ill be using all the features of the PC. But I would love FOC!!! I don't have a tri led, but the effect is still desirable. Hmmmm...

[Silver Serpent]

Do you *really* think you'll only be building a single saber?

Start with the NB if you're not sure. You can always upgrade to a PC later, and then use the NB in another saber. Or keep your NB saber and build a new one with a PC. Either way is fine. You'll need a multi-die LED like the Tri-Rebel or LEDEngin to get FoC, but you still get great flickering effects with a single die LED.

[SilverLiquid]

Haha, I already have two working at the same time, hahaha.

That's what I was thinking. Just keep moving the NB around. I thought that FoC was possible with a single LED though. Something about diminishing the output at the regularly on time and when it goes into FoC you can increase the output to 100% therefore looking like its flashing. No?

[Silver Serpent]

There is a flickering effect with single die LEDs on clash events. It works by decreasing the light output while flickering. The blade normally runs at full power. FoC works by activating additional LED die(dice) during a clash event, and it increases the brightness of the blade.

It looks cool in either case. One of the great features of FoC is that you can use multicolored LEDs to have the blade change color during a clash event.

[SilverLiquid]

So I decided to go with NB for now. My question is, can I use a buck puck since ill be using 4 nimh's? I've read that a resistor has to be used because the voltage is normally not high enough to run the buck puck, that it needs 5v. But I'll be running 4.8v. Or do I also have to subtract the accent led voltage and the speaker voltage?

Also, does anyone have the height of the 2.1mm power jack?

[Silver Serpent]

4 NiMH is not enough for a buckpuck. Trust me, buckpucks get really flaky once they drop below the 5v mark.

Resistors are easy enough to use, and simpler to install than the puck. I have a link in my sig to the resistor calculator that I use.

[SilverLiquid]

The setup I have now does use 4.8v and the buck puck. No problems yet. That's why this wasn't making sense to me. But then again i have nothing else connected. I could see that adding the sound board and speaker and additional led would drop the volts going to the buck puck though.

I did already calculate the resistors for my setup with the calculator you've used. Thanks!

[SilverLiquid]

These are the resistor that were calculated. Does it look correct?

Using a blue lux rebel
Blue ring momentary switch

image.jpg
image.jpg

Reeeealy don't want to kill my LEDs!

[Silver Serpent]

Looks right to me.