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Thread: PC wiring diagram

  1. #1

    Default PC wiring diagram

    OK, I've floated around the threads and read through the PC Manual a few times, and I've put together a not-so-pretty wiring diagram.
    Two questions, other then the obvious 'does this look right' question.

    1-Can I wire the LED on the illuminated switch the way I did in the diagram (off the switch itself). I only want the LED on the switch on when the saber is powered up.

    2- Can the FoC be wired for more then one affect? One for clash and one for blaster blocking?
    Basically, I would like to have the Engin LZ4 with 2 Green LEDS on as the main blade, Blue flash for clash, and Red flash for blaster blocking. (< is that even possible?!?)

    So, here it be . . .
    {It is gone}
    I said it was not-so-pretty.

    Ok, here is the updated diagram.


    That's better.

    Comments, concerns?


    -The YIn
    Last edited by The Yin; 11-09-2012 at 12:06 AM. Reason: new picture

  2. #2

    Default

    1. No, that won't work. You could wire it as a progressive power on LED (p 18 of the PC 2.0 manual), but with the way you have the switch wired now it won't light up at all.

    2. Not currently possible. It might be available on later generations of the PC.

    I'll check the rest of your wiring diagram after I've had more coffee.

    Edit: I've had my coffee now. Your recharge port is wired incorrectly. See the following post for the correct method: http://forums.thecustomsabershop.com...1391#post51391

    Alternatively, you can also see the correct diagram in the PC 2.0 manual on page 10.
    Last edited by Silver Serpent; 11-07-2012 at 08:15 AM.
    We all have to start somewhere. The journey is all the more impressive by our humble beginnings.

    http://led.linear1.org/1led.wiz for the lazy man's resistor calculator!
    http://forums.thecustomsabershop.com...e-to-Ohm-s-Law for getting resistor values the right way!

  3. #3

    Default

    Haha, wow, looking back at the picture in the manual, I put everything in the wrong place for the recharge port. I was following the written instructions, but I don't actually have the recharge port yet, so I was misreading what was what.
    I can fix that part.

    For the switch LED I could run it as a progressive power on LED, or i could (I think) use the 3.3v pad.
    Here's what I'm thinking: 3.3v pad to C2(on switch); NO2 (on switch) to +LED; -LED to PC -battery.

    I'll have to redraw this when I get home. Maybe, if there is time, I'll make it a little less not-so-pretty.

    -The Yin

  4. #4

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    That should work since your switch is DPDT, provided you have a latching switch. If it's momentary, it'll only illuminate when the switch is held down.
    We all have to start somewhere. The journey is all the more impressive by our humble beginnings.

    http://led.linear1.org/1led.wiz for the lazy man's resistor calculator!
    http://forums.thecustomsabershop.com...e-to-Ohm-s-Law for getting resistor values the right way!

  5. #5

    Default

    Your Power Extender (in the diagram) shows an external resistor on the + leading to the LED module, which is fine, so long as you bridge the two + pads on the PEX. Most of the time, I see the resistor being placed directly on the PEX between the 2 + pads. It saves quite a bit of space.

  6. #6

    Default

    Thanks for the tip Shef.
    I will most likely have the resister on the board, but I haven't decided how swappable I'll want parts to be. I may put the resister inline on the cable, depends on how easy it may be to replace the resister on the board if I ever put in a different LED.

    Also, I've got a much better wire diagram for the PC I'm working on. But it might be a few days before I get time to finish and post it.

    -The Yin

  7. #7

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    K, just updated my first post with the new diagram.
    Much prettier, if I may say so myself.

    -The Yin

  8. #8

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    New diagram looks correct to me.
    We all have to start somewhere. The journey is all the more impressive by our humble beginnings.

    http://led.linear1.org/1led.wiz for the lazy man's resistor calculator!
    http://forums.thecustomsabershop.com...e-to-Ohm-s-Law for getting resistor values the right way!

  9. #9

    Default

    Okay, I'm bring this thread back to life (back to reality), looking for some input on a power source.

    Here's what I'll have:
    PC, with PEX
    2w speaker
    2 LEDs for chamber (5mm - 20mA, 5VDC Max reverse Voltage. 2VDC (typ) Forward voltage drop)
    1 switch LED (3.3V and runs at 20mA)
    Blade LED - Engin LZ4 10W Multi Color

    I was originally thinking of using a 7.4v 2600mAh 18650 pack, just to have the best power option.
    But, to save space and lower the hilts total weight, I am eyeing the 7.4v 1600mAh 14500 pack or the 7.4 1400mAh 18500 pack.


    My inquiry is rather or not the 2600mAh is more then I'll need to keep this saber alive all day at a convention?

    My first set of sabers (all stunt, single blade LED w\ switch and accent LED), all had 800mAh and they barely made it through the day.

    Any input is much appreciated.
    ~ The Yin ~

    “Yeah I’m pack’n heat! It’s to prevent anyone from making me cold.”

    For the saber building Younglings and Padawans: Basic Saber Building and The Saber Building Dictionary!

  10. #10

    Default

    It really depends on how much you use the saber. It might last all day for some people, not so much for others.

    For a rough calculation, divide the mAh of your pack by the total mA of all your components.

    2600mAh / (~350mA for PC + 60mA for 3 accent LEDs + your main LED) = approximate runtime in hours. Keep in mind that the listed battery pack mAh is usually higher than you'll see in practice.

    Another option is to build the saber so that the battery pack is easily swappable. Then just carry an extra battery pack with you.
    We all have to start somewhere. The journey is all the more impressive by our humble beginnings.

    http://led.linear1.org/1led.wiz for the lazy man's resistor calculator!
    http://forums.thecustomsabershop.com...e-to-Ohm-s-Law for getting resistor values the right way!

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