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Thread: Nano Biscotte First Wiring Diagram

  1. #1

    Default Nano Biscotte First Wiring Diagram

    Hey everyone,

    I'm Xonos, brand new to the forum. I read everything I could get my hands on regarding building and wiring sabers on this forum and out of that I cooked up a wiring diagram for the Nano Biscotte board. It's my first diagram and saber build but I think I have everything right. Does anyone see anything glaringly wrong/something that could fry any of my components that I overlooked? I should probably mention I'm brand-new to electronics as well.

    About the switch-I decided to try and wire a red-illuminated momentary AV switch although the NB board doesn't explicitly say it's wired for it. I'm running it straight off the battery (with a resistor of course) because I don't want to wire the LED leads to the dedicated LED spot on the board and have it be permanently activated and run down the battery. Is this a good idea?
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  2. #2

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    If you wire the switch LED directly to the battery, it *will* be permanently activated and run down the battery.

    You can attach it to the dedicated LED pad on the board, but just install a recharge port and use a kill-key to cut off the switch LED when it's not in use.
    We all have to start somewhere. The journey is all the more impressive by our humble beginnings.

    http://led.linear1.org/1led.wiz for the lazy man's resistor calculator!
    http://forums.thecustomsabershop.com...e-to-Ohm-s-Law for getting resistor values the right way!

  3. #3

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    I was afraid of that. So there's no way I could wire the LED in the switch to only illuminate when the switch activates the circuit? If not it's really no skin off my back to just have a bland AV switch.

    I want to stay away from a recharge port for this build mainly because I think it's a little too complex for my first build (again, brand new to electronics) and I don't have a problem with taking apart the saber to charge the battery. I'm thinking of after this one upgrading to a PC board and maybe including one there, but for right now I want to not include it if possible.

    What I really need/want to know is if the resistor values I currently have will work. The whole "NB drives at 2A yet the LED runs off 1A" yet requires comparatively little resistance (The NB manual says to just alter the drive parameters which I plan on doing and calculated in the diagram) doesn't sit right with me for some reason.
    Last edited by Xonos; 04-12-2013 at 07:57 PM.

  4. #4

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    You could wire it off of the main LED, you would just have to resistor it properly.
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    "Yeah, yeah, I've heard it all before... you want blindingly bright, super loud, running 1138 blinkies off of the cheapest sound card you can find AND you want all of it to run on a battery the size of a dime, and run for a very, VERY long time. That one cracks me up every time..."
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  5. #5

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    Huh..I didn't think of that. Thanks for the idea. Should I wire it in series or parallel?
    Last edited by Xonos; 04-12-2013 at 08:50 PM.

  6. #6

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    Accent LEDs (like switch LEDs) need to be wired parallel to the main blade LED.

    For resistors, the 82ohm you have for the accent LED is correct. You can also use a 1ohm, 2W resistor for the main LED as opposed to tweaking the drive setting on the NB.
    Last edited by Silver Serpent; 04-13-2013 at 08:25 AM.
    We all have to start somewhere. The journey is all the more impressive by our humble beginnings.

    http://led.linear1.org/1led.wiz for the lazy man's resistor calculator!
    http://forums.thecustomsabershop.com...e-to-Ohm-s-Law for getting resistor values the right way!

  7. #7

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    And if I were to wire them in parallel the resistor values(I plan on using a DynaOhm if it changes) for the switch LED as well as the Luxeon would remain the same? I would assume because each segment of that parallel circuit would have its own resistor they wouldn't change.
    Last edited by Xonos; 04-13-2013 at 12:42 PM.

  8. #8

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    Quote Originally Posted by Xonos View Post
    And if I were to wire them in parallel the resistor values(I plan on using a DynaOhm if it changes) for the switch LED as well as the Luxeon would remain the same? I would assume because each segment of that parallel circuit would have its own resistor they wouldn't change.
    You can use the DynaOhm for the switch, but it wouldn't work for the main LED. The 1 Ohm 2W would be for main LED - I'll take SS's word for the resistor math for that - I'm not going to check it out for myself.
    TCSS MODERATOR
    All n00bs READ these first (PLEASE)!!!:
    1. Forum Guidelines
    2. FJK’s “Down and Dirty” guide to Ohm’s Law

    "Yeah, yeah, I've heard it all before... you want blindingly bright, super loud, running 1138 blinkies off of the cheapest sound card you can find AND you want all of it to run on a battery the size of a dime, and run for a very, VERY long time. That one cracks me up every time..."
    My email: fjk_tcss@yahoo.com

  9. #9

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    I got .3 Ohms and .3W for the mainline resistor (seeing as the RBlue Lux runs on 1A of current, 3.7V of battery and 3.4 forward volts for the LED), so instead of trying to find the exact resistor for something that small or wiring them in parallel to make one I would just tweak the drive and make my life simple with the DynaOhm. Not trying to be spoonfed-I just don't want to risk frying any of my components, especially a $65 soundboard, an uncommon switch and/or an uncommon powerful LED for which I would have to wait for a replacement to get shipped to me.

  10. #10

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    The DynaOhm is fine for accent LEDs. It's great if you decide later on to swap out your accent LED for one with a different forward voltage. Say, going from green to red. It's just more expensive than a basic resistor.
    We all have to start somewhere. The journey is all the more impressive by our humble beginnings.

    http://led.linear1.org/1led.wiz for the lazy man's resistor calculator!
    http://forums.thecustomsabershop.com...e-to-Ohm-s-Law for getting resistor values the right way!

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