Technically, the Obi was a li-ion.
The Luke ROTJ? GASP! NiMH 4xAAA pack.
Hehe. All we need now is for Sunrider to come wandering by this thread and discuss his ideas of brightness.
We all have to start somewhere. The journey is all the more impressive by our humble beginnings.
http://led.linear1.org/1led.wiz for the lazy man's resistor calculator!
http://forums.thecustomsabershop.com...e-to-Ohm-s-Law for getting resistor values the right way!
Mike:
Are you still planning to use the NB for this saber? Or will running it silent but with 'blade pulse' be enough for your purposes?
I ask because the BuckPuck dimming and the BuckBlock dimming are (annoyingly) quite different. The BuckPuck is current limited to 20ma and works in 0-5 volts. The BuckBlock is not current limited, but the input can never be more than 10ma; it also works in 0-10 volts.
The exact circuit will be a bit different depending on what you choose to do. Running the NB just means a change in the resistor for the BuckBlock, while using the flashing LED to run 'blade pulse' a slightly bigger design change for the BuckBlock.
Marc...
Hi HH,
I am still intending to run this with an NB. Having looked at the datasheet for the Buckblock I see it doesn't require a resistor if I'm just running the LED from it without dimming. The NB features 'blade flickering' (presumably using duty cycles as we've discussed) so presumably doesn't require a resistor for the BuckBlock, or am I missing something?
BW,
Mike
Mike,
Actually, I think you are right. You will not need a pull-up resistor - so a straight connection should work fine.
Forge ahead!
Marc..
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