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Thread: What's wrong in this Pic?

  1. #11

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    Quote Originally Posted by Keman View Post
    I'm wondering is this setup using a Kill Key? is it advised to always use a kill key set up for safety reason?

    Edit: never mind I wired it up and found it. Kill Key :/ but it does work! I guess I could make another thread but if anyone sees this and has any info on the non kill key recharge port safety/wiring wise that would be great.

    Oh and THANK YOU ALL so much I swear my solders have got alot better and it almost feels like I know what I am doing.

    Triple and Last Edit: I found out how to wire it without a kill Key, looks like I just move the Negitive wire coming from the buckbuck to the same contact on the recharge port that the battery negitive is connected too. I am just curious about any safety concerns I should have.
    Normally recharge ports and "kill keys" are used when using sound boards. It allows for easy recharge of the saber, without having to take them apart to change batteries, and also will prevent the draining of a battery pack when not in use.
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    "Yeah, yeah, I've heard it all before... you want blindingly bright, super loud, running 1138 blinkies off of the cheapest sound card you can find AND you want all of it to run on a battery the size of a dime, and run for a very, VERY long time. That one cracks me up every time..."
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  2. #12

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    well I wired it up to not use a kill key, I am mainly worried about somthing happening and burning down the house if it is left pluged in, as a show piece on the wall. >< Let me know if I really should just throw that idea away and redo the wiring.(I dont even want to think about redoing that at the moment)

    When I went to put it all together I just noticed that the battery pack with the batteries in it would not slide into the grenade grip I had >< (I had only tested it with an empty pack) I tried to dremmel it and hollow it out enough but that was a no go, it did work a little but not enough. So yeah I had to add a few extentions I had for another saber to it. so it is a little longer then planed and it might not look right with the short blade.

    IMG_2413.jpgIMG_2419.jpgIMG_2421.jpgIMG_2423.jpgIMG_2427.jpg - Wiring

  3. #13

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    IMG_2403.jpgIMG_2411.jpgIMG_2417.jpgIMG_2429.jpg - More Shots

    PS: >< >< >< >< >< I droped the saber right before I made these posts........ looks like it broke the switch becuase it wont stay pressed in now >< >< ><
    Attached Images Attached Images
    Last edited by Keman; 03-09-2013 at 11:19 PM.

  4. #14

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    and not really worth another thread I doubt but here are some shots of some weathering practice on a hilt that the threads got messed up on. gonna weather my next project somehow.

    IMG_2226.jpgIMG_2231.jpgIMG_2241.jpgIMG_2295.jpgIMG_2303.jpg - Weathering

  5. #15

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    Kenan,

    If you plan to have to always plugged in for show, do you even need the batteries at all? Just thinking out loud on this.

    If you do need/want the batteries, you will find the pre-made Li-Ion pack is a little smaller: http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/74...Pack-P698.aspx. I just tested this in a grenade extension, and it does fit. So this as an option.

  6. #16

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    Quote Originally Posted by Keman View Post
    and not really worth another thread I doubt but here are some shots of some weathering practice on a hilt that the threads got messed up on. gonna weather my next project somehow.

    IMG_2226.jpgIMG_2231.jpgIMG_2241.jpgIMG_2295.jpgIMG_2303.jpg - Weathering
    My very first car as a teen had that same paint job. Ahhh, the memories... And the break downs...

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