Switching to NiMH from alkaline drops your battery pack voltage from 4.5v to 3.6v. I highly recommend getting a 4xAAA or 4xAA holder, and using 4 NiMH for a 4.8v pack. You're very close to the cutoff point for the NB, and it'll exhibit odd behavior as your batteries run down.
You can also tweak the settings on the SD card to adjust swing and clash sensitivity.
We all have to start somewhere. The journey is all the more impressive by our humble beginnings.
http://led.linear1.org/1led.wiz for the lazy man's resistor calculator!
http://forums.thecustomsabershop.com...e-to-Ohm-s-Law for getting resistor values the right way!
Tape = Bad. You should use heatshrink on the wires and remove the tape from the board. Its needs to breath cause it gets hot. This has been known to cause failure.Originally Posted by jcook1023
Hokey religions and ancient weapons are no match for a good blaster at your side, kid.
Really? Weird...I was advised by my brother in law, who does electronic wiring for a living, to avoid heat shrink tubing saying the same thing!
Related by unrelated - one of my assistant instructors at the dojo asked me to make him a saber using a Luke skywalker soundboard, but when I bought it I'm confused by something; the switch has 4 or 5 wires running to it, and is a slide switch. Have any of you encountered that before? I haven't opened up the asking yet to examine it further and see if its like the mace windu soundboard I used before, but figured before I do I'd see if anyone else has encountered that (for what it's worth I'll be using the push on/off switch that came with the Seoul p4 kit...)
"See first with your mind, then with your eyes, and finally with your body."
photo 1.jpgphoto 2.jpg this is what i'm working with here...
"See first with your mind, then with your eyes, and finally with your body."
Lightsabers tend to get warm inside, from the LEDs and soundboards and battery packs. That heat tends to cause electrical tape to come loose, especially considering you're swinging it around and banging it on things. Heat shrink is a much better solution. A properly heatshrunk connection isn't going to come loose on its own.
Electrical tape has its uses, but inside a lightsaber isn't one of them.
As for your Luke sound board, I don't recognize that one. Is it one of the old EL wire sabers?
Last edited by Silver Serpent; 02-22-2013 at 01:24 PM.
We all have to start somewhere. The journey is all the more impressive by our humble beginnings.
http://led.linear1.org/1led.wiz for the lazy man's resistor calculator!
http://forums.thecustomsabershop.com...e-to-Ohm-s-Law for getting resistor values the right way!
I am having a similar issue , I have wired mine as the diagram showed , and there is no boot sound or anything when I press the switch, help?
i have no idea if its an old EL one or what...
"See first with your mind, then with your eyes, and finally with your body."
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