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Thread: Soundboard doesn't fit...help!

  1. #11
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    WD-40. Spray it in, let it sit. Repeat. Let it run through the threads. Give it time. Strap wrenches...go back and forth. Take it slow. I have never met a seized part that I could not get apart...and I have had a "little" experience with MHS parts
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  2. #12

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    LDM, you're one of Tim's biggest customers (if not THE biggest).

    Trust LDM, he knows his stuff.
    We all have to start somewhere. The journey is all the more impressive by our humble beginnings.

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  3. #13
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    Will that work even if there's a bit of wire or something else stuck in the threads?

    Also unrelated but if I use 2x14500 batteries in place of 4xAA, will a 3.3 ohm 5 watt resistor be sufficient to not blow an led with soundboard?
    "See first with your mind, then with your eyes, and finally with your body."

  4. #14

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    Depends on the LED, soundboard, and how you have it all wired up. You're going from 6v to 7.4v, so some adjustments may be required.
    We all have to start somewhere. The journey is all the more impressive by our humble beginnings.

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  5. #15
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    Yeah that's where I get a bit lost. Ill be using the Seoul p4 (if I can get it out), otherwise ill be using a single led rebel in blue using a push on/off switch and mace windu soundboard. My brother in law also suggested not using the 2x14500 but a 4xAAA setup... Any thoughts?
    "See first with your mind, then with your eyes, and finally with your body."

  6. #16
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    Quote Originally Posted by Lord Dottore Matto View Post
    WD-40. Spray it in, let it sit. Repeat. Let it run through the threads. Give it time. Strap wrenches...go back and forth. Take it slow. I have never met a seized part that I could not get apart...and I have had a "little" experience with MHS parts
    that did the trick! it appears as though something about the threads on the top of the hilt were sticking up the blade holder...nothing was stuck in there. i had wiped everything down with wd40 before i test fit and still i had that happen...i tried an extension piece and a pommel as well, with the same results, while i tried screwing the blade holder into the extension and that worked together perfectly! even after cleaning everything out with a wire brush, toothbrush and recoating with wd40 to get the same results, the question is what do i do?
    "See first with your mind, then with your eyes, and finally with your body."

  7. #17

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    Get a piece of tissue, or a cotton ball, and gently run it along the threads of the pieces that are sticking. If you have a burr, you'll find it pretty fast. Be sure to check the female as well as the male threads. A wire brush can easily do damage to the soft aluminum threads, so you may want to find something else to use. A small piece of fine grit sandpaper usually does the trick for me.

    I usually wash my parts with soap and water, clean the threads thoroughly with a toothbrush, dry the parts, and then apply a little lithium grease to keep them from seizing. WD-40 is good for getting stuck parts loose, but it evaporates too quickly to be used as a longterm solution. I have also used teflon tape on the threads to keep them from seizing.
    We all have to start somewhere. The journey is all the more impressive by our humble beginnings.

    http://led.linear1.org/1led.wiz for the lazy man's resistor calculator!
    http://forums.thecustomsabershop.com...e-to-Ohm-s-Law for getting resistor values the right way!

  8. #18

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    Quote Originally Posted by jcook1023 View Post
    that did the trick! it appears as though something about the threads on the top of the hilt were sticking up the blade holder...nothing was stuck in there. i had wiped everything down with wd40 before i test fit and still i had that happen...i tried an extension piece and a pommel as well, with the same results, while i tried screwing the blade holder into the extension and that worked together perfectly! even after cleaning everything out with a wire brush, toothbrush and recoating with wd40 to get the same results, the question is what do i do?
    Graphite type anti seize is the best type to use. No offense Tim but MHS parts have a sliver of thread when it ends on the inner most thread. This sliver can sometimes deform and bind the parts together. I carefully use a dremel & files to remove the sliver until it becomes the full thread.

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