First MHS Build, after a long hiatus

[Blade-Rave]

Been ages since I've been here but Back nevertheless to make a saber. Aiming to work with the NB soundboard, though before I got this all done up (along with making sure I'm all set to buy the parts, I just wanted to run my list here in case I have anything unnessessary in the list, or if I'm missing anything at all that should be included:

- MPS Pommel style 10
-Hilt style 3 with guarded style switch hole
-MHS choke style 1 short
-Screw on LED blade holder style 20
MHS "new style" Heat Sink V3 (Tri-Rebels)
-16mm Anti Vandal Momentary Nickel Plated Switch
-Activation box style 9
-Machined button for Covertec clip
-Luxeon Tri-Rebel Star (Green/Green/White)
-Luxeon 18deg Tri-Rebel Star Lens
-8-32 x .3" anodized thumb screw
-2-56 Button Head Screw
-MWS Pre-Wired Nano Biscotte Sound Module(Light Meat)
-Li-Ion 18650 3.7V 2600mAh PCB Protected Rechargeable Battery Module
-Constant current LED driver (1000mA, Momentary)
-MHS speaker mount V2
-Premium Speaker
-2X JST female connectors with shared ground x4
-JST Connectors x6
-LED "Corbin style" Battle blade 1" OD (32 inches)
** Double Wrap
** Standard

Been going over this for a total of 8 hours and despite my best efforts I get a nagging feeling something isn't quite right, like something is missing. Hoping I can get pointed in the right direction if possible

[Silver Serpent]

A few things stick out at me: You don't have a recharge port to fit in Box9 and you're missing a socket head screw for the covertec knob.

Also, you're getting the constant current driver with the NB? It's going to be tricky getting the two of those to work together. You could save a lot of space by either switching to the PC2.0 or just using a resistor.

Personally I'd swap out the CCD for a resistor.

[TrypWyr]

Also, and maybe I'm looking at this wrong, but you have an AV switch and a hilt with a hole for a guarded switch. Looks like you need a hilt without the guarded switch hole, and then add the box 9 mounting holes service.

And don't forget the 4-40 screw to mount the box... I did that once and it was a total pain to find a local source for one that looked good.

[Blade-Rave]

Reworked what was needed and made a few changes, though when I checked for my shipping rates, it says (No Li-Ion Batteries), and I'm at a loss as to what I can do about this...

[Silver Serpent]

You've run into the issue that all non-US residents are experiencing. The US postal service isn't allowing li-ion batteries to be shipped internationally (for now). You'll have to find some locally.

[Blade-Rave]

there's a Clear Power Solutions in my city I can call to BUILD me a battery to meet the right specifications, but as for the wire leads would I have to have the JST Connectors needed for them to make it fit with my build? Was contemplating a button like battery with a paired dummy battery in a 2AA holder if not, but I'm getting the impression those holders don't take kindly to recharge ports.

[Silver Serpent]

If the battery pack they build for you has wire leads, then you should be able to solder a JST onto the end of the leads.

It's not usually recommended to recharge li-ion batteries in one of those battery holders. The batteries do get warm while recharging, and if they've been jostled loose during a lightsaber duel, they can cause safety issues.

[Blade-Rave]

It's not usually recommended to recharge li-ion batteries in one of those battery holders. The batteries do get warm while recharging, and if they've been jostled loose during a lightsaber duel, they can cause safety issues.

Mhm, point taken, given my handhelds like the PSP and 3DS and even my smartphones have heated up during charging. Though if I have a battery built for what I need and say it comes with a Positve/Negative/Ground wire, wondering what to do about the ground.

Also on a side note, what's the best way to protect the NB from shorting inside the hilts? a friend suggested I coat it in that spray on rubber though that idea terrifies me greatly.

[Silver Serpent]

I've never seen a battery pack with a ground wire. Not saying they don't exist, but I've never seen them. It should be safe to ignore the ground if it does exist.

The best way to keep the NB from shorting out is to use the acrylic chassis discs. http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/Ch...Parts-C74.aspx There are some made just for the NB.

[Blade-Rave]

Bleh, about ready to order most of my parts but decided on not running the Tri-Rebel and using a P4. for the moment it's out of stock and now that I'm trying to get a Lux Rebel instead (going with Blue this time, like when I modified my Anakin ROTS a while back), I can't find a resistor I need for the thing...