Purple!

[dgregory]

The PC's regulation you're referring to is the Drive setting in the Config, right? The NB has a Drive setting as well. Wouldn't such a setup (with the 3.7v battery instead of the 7.4v, obviously) be just as plausible? Meaning the RBG LED could forego resistors and use the Drive setting to regulate the dice? I would think that wiring them in parallel and using the Drive setting to maintain it without overdriving the dice would be safe but I haven't been able to try it yet and I don't wanna screw up a LEDengin or Tri-Rebel without being sure.

I ask [besides the relevance] because I'm trying to get the multi-die LEDs figured out for myself as well. I personally don't mind dealing with pink [I'd rather have pink than purple anyway] if that's the price for not using resistors.

Yes, I've done exactly that. I used the drive adjust on the NB to lower the output for a Tri-Rebel R/Rb/G. I had to put a resistor on the red die, but not on the blue or green. Both were pretty close to the 3.7 V anyway, so the adjustment wasn't much. I lowered it to about 3.45 V and haven't had any problems. The red will definitely need a resistor though, as it's rating is much lower than the other two. 3.45 V was still quite a bit high for the red die.

[Defcon4]

Okay, when it comes to saber building I'm still in Kindergarten, So I don't want to comes across as trying to give advice to anyone.

Everything I have learned thus far has been from the guys here. I have made a few purple blades using the tri rebel and wiring the red and blue LED's together to get a nice Amethyst color.

A while back I ordered a Tri rebel to update my first project. The colors on the tri rebel were Red Orange/ Amber/ Royal blue. I wanted a very vivid Amber or orange, the plan was to wire the Red orange and Amber together and use the Royal blue for clash.

I never use the tri rebel for that project .. and not even sure I would have gotten the color I wanted if I had.

Anyhoo, I got this tri rebel out last night and wired it like I've been wiring RGB sabers(not sure if that's the most efficient way) All the negative pads together and an individual lead coming off of the positive of each led.

This gave me a very vivid purple. Almost like a Fuschia. I did not expect it but was very happy with the color.

6 volt power source.

Red orange ..resistor with 5.6 ohm 3 watt

Amber ..resistor 5.6 ohm 3 watt

Royal blue ..resistor 2.7 ohm 3 watt

The camera doesn't do a great job of capturing the color, the blade is kind of washed out. but, the reflective colors on the wall and chair are a good representation of the blade in person.

[Forgetful Jedi Knight]

I don't think the NB regulates current. I haven't paid much attention to it because I'm not in the market for a board, but I was pretty sure that it requires resistors to the LED.

This is correct. The NB DOES NOT have a current regulator. You would need to use resistors to get purple.

[Jester 1]

This is correct. The NB DOES NOT have a current regulator. You would need to use resistors to get purple.

I asked before, and may be it was too stupid a question. I'm doing the Master Replica mod that is discussed in the Sticky on this forum. I'm planning on using a Luxeon Tri Rebel Rblue, Red, Green
http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/Lu...Star-P777.aspx

I will be mixing the Rblue and Red to get the purple. For this type application I am not changing out the card to a NB, or PC, so just utilizing the Master Replica board for power. I took a reading and the voltage out is 3.6v but the current is not a stable reading. I am assuming it puts out a max current depending on what the draw is? It's been a while since I took electronics, just looking to be spoon fed. Any help is appreciated. Anyone know what the amp rating of the MR card is?

[Jester 1]

It was too stupid of a questions, turns out I had my multimeter set up wrong. The Master Replica board puts out about 565ma.