Sith saber build

[Ty_Bomber]

Thanks for the compliments. The design was was a collaboration between me and friend of mine (it will be his saber). He really liked the "Inferno" by randomsabers, so that is the chief inspiration. I wasn't sure how I could get the shrouds done though so I took inspiration from Vader's Vault in their "Aggressive Negotiations" line. The straight lines of that shroud should be easier to pull off with the tools I have available. This will be the second lightsaber I build, and again, it won't be for me.

[Silver Serpent]

The resistor pads on the board are pre-bridged. If you want to solder SMD resistors on them, you will have to un-bridge the pads first.

Most people just wire normal resistors in-line with the accent LEDs. Surface mount component soldering is tricky if you're not familiar with it.

[Arryck Corso]

The resistor pads on the board are pre-bridged. If you want to solder SMD resistors on them, you will have to un-bridge the pads first.

Most people just wire normal resistors in-line with the accent LEDs. Surface mount component soldering is tricky if you're not familiar with it.

That's what I did. Those pre-bridged pads are tiny!! I also agree with underdriving your accent LED's. Especially if you're planning on using a green or white LED. Even the 3mm ones can be insanely bright. So don't be afraid to throw a decent size resistor on them.

[Ty_Bomber]

That's what I did. Those pre-bridged pads are tiny!! I also agree with underdriving your accent LED's. Especially if you're planning on using a green or white LED. Even the 3mm ones can be insanely bright. So don't be afraid to throw a decent size resistor on them.

That seems much easier.

Also Arryck, I am re-reading through your thread on Aethon for inspiration, since this is my first full MHS build. I was curious to know what size PVC you decided to get. I know it was a 4" length, but was a bit more curious as to it's OD. I want to measure everything I can before ordering.

[Darth Ryo]

Dunno about Arryck (who has a perfect PVC chassis indeed), but you can use "1-1/4" x 12" Slip Joint Tail Piece One End" which fit pretty well into MHS parts after a bit of sanding (and they are easy to cut and work with).

[Ty_Bomber]

Good idea Ruo, thabks for the tip. I think I will go that route.

[Ty_Bomber]

Got my parts last week, everything seems to be in order.

I started work on the chassis after a test fit of the electronics. My hope is that I can get the 1&1/4" to fit in the blank extension and extend into the rear grip "Madcow" style as a single piece. Unfortunately I can't get enough material off with the lathe without cutting through the piece entirely, so... if I can, I plan to cut a long slit down the half of the chassis that sits in the extension to give it enough flex to press fit. Once that is set, I will make the cuts into the shroud and place the holes for my accent leds, switches, and recharge port.

[Ty_Bomber]

I have a couple questions before I start pre-tinning everything, if you guys have a sec.

First off, if I remember correctly, both the 2w high bass speaker and the small momentary switches I am using from TCSS (http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/SP...itch-P285.aspx) don't have a designated + or -.

The switches have four prongs, but I only need two, and the activation and auxiliary switches share a common ground, so I just need to be sure that I wire the - leads from both switches to that pad. The speaker just needs two wires running to each of the speaker pads. Am I on the right track?

[Kevin Starwaster]

I have a couple questions before I start pre-tinning everything, if you guys have a sec.

First off, if I remember correctly, both the 2w high bass speaker and the small momentary switches I am using from TCSS (http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/SP...itch-P285.aspx) don't have a designated + or -.

The switches have four prongs, but I only need two, and the activation and auxiliary switches share a common ground, so I just need to be sure that I wire the - leads from both switches to that pad. The speaker just needs two wires running to each of the speaker pads. Am I on the right track?

The switches themselves are not electrically polarized; they only close circuits. (or if normally closed, open them)

My contention on speakers is that polarity doesn't matter but it's been pointed out here that polarity can be an issue if you're dealing with multiple speakers. I've also seen that subject discussed on other forums that deal with audio issues more extensively and the consensus is more or less that it matters when dealing with a multiple speaker setup and audio interference can result if both speakers aren't wired the same way to the source.

So short answer is no, -+ doesn't matter for the speaker.

[Ty_Bomber]

Looks like I fixed the foc.