What?!? NOOO!! Oh, ok. wait a sec?

[The Yin]

Yep, that's what I was thinking in the last few minutes.

So here is my situation.
I just finished doing 99% of the wiring for my PC (just haven't added the PEX resistor). Did a test run of Cram-fu to see how hard this saber will be to assemble and disassemble.

Then I went to test it out again to make sure everything is still working. Well it didn't (*stay calm*). The saber made some attempt at producing sound, the switch LED came on, but the blade LED did not.
Then I realized, I never tested it after adding the R.I.C.E port.
So i pulled the RICE port, and now it is working again. I checked and rechecked the wiring and it looks to be correct.

RICE port.jpg

So, what could it be? Should I just try soldering it on again, I'm I wiring it wrong. (Do I not need the ground? - I think I may have read that some where, come to think of it).
Help me saberers, you're my only hope.



PLUS - The "wait a sec" moment.
I have the PEX, less the resistor. thus there is nothing between the 2 '+' on the PEX. Shouldn't this be a break in the circuit causing the FoC not to work?
Well, that's not the case. Some how, my Red and Blue (or the RGGB), which are wired for my FoC are still getting power. Could it be they are getting powered from the FoC's 3.3v?
If this is the case, and it is not a problem for the board or LED, I think I will leave it this way. It's causing the flash to have a cool lightning blue color!!!!

IMAG0384.jpg


Well, let me know what's what.


Keep sabering my friends.

[Silver Serpent]

I don't have any experience with R.I.C.E., so I can't help you there.

Did you wire the battery and FoC LED positives to the PEX? If you're not using a resistor (or even if you are) you don't *need* to wire them to the PEX. Only the negatives and the control wire must be connected to the PEX in order for it to work. You can wire the battery pos and FoC LEDs directly to each other.

[TrypWyr]

Regarding the RICE port: You will still need a ground to complete the circuit, but there is an issue if you are using the all-metal port style 1; it can cause a short if it contacts the saber body (can't remember the specifics, only that I had the same issue). If you are using that port mounted, don't ground to the PC but rather to the battery neg. That's directly from Erv, but for the life of me I can't remember where the thread was... if I find it I will link to it.

Good luck!

[Forgetful Jedi Knight]

Regarding the RICE port: You will still need a ground to complete the circuit, but there is an issue if you are using the all-metal port style 1; it can cause a short if it contacts the saber body (can't remember the specifics, only that I had the same issue). If you are using that port mounted, don't ground to the PC but rather to the battery neg. That's directly from Erv, but for the life of me I can't remember where the thread was... if I find it I will link to it.

Good luck!

TrypWyr is right, you have to ground the RICE port to the battery negative. That's probably causing your constant on LED issue as well.

[The Yin]

Thank you guys,

TrypWyr, that's most likely the problem. The port is in connect with the pommel and would surly ground to it. Is the style 2 port smaller? I might just get that one if it is; having some more room wouldn't be a problem, and the grounding issue would be resolved.

SS,
I have the battery pos(+) and the FoC LED wired to the PEX. But there is nothing between them. I soldered them to the PEX and plan on putting the resister on when I get it. So, right now there is no connection between the battery Pos(+) and the LEDs. But they are wired to the Battery Neg(-) and the PEX is wired to the PC.
That's why I'm confused. It must be getting just enough power from the 3.3v, other then that, there's nothing going to the PEX.

[Forgetful Jedi Knight]

Thank you guys,

TrypWyr, that's most likely the problem. The port is in connect with the pommel and would surly ground to it. Is the style 2 port smaller? I might just get that one if it is; having some more room wouldn't be a problem, and the grounding issue would be resolved.

SS,
I have the battery pos(+) and the FoC LED wired to the PEX. But there is nothing between them. I soldered them to the PEX and plan on putting the resister on when I get it. So, right now there is no connection between the battery Pos(+) and the LEDs. But they are wired to the Battery Neg(-) and the PEX is wired to the PC.
That's why I'm confused. It must be getting just enough power from the 3.3v, other then that, there's nothing going to the PEX.

That doesn't sound right. We would need to see a clear picture(s) of how you have the PEX connected to your PC the control wire should go from the FoC pad to the middle pad on the PEX. Also, the mis-grounded RICE port could have been causing your issue as well.

[Silver Serpent]

Indeed. If you're getting power to your FoC dice the way you have described it, then there's a short somewhere. Probably the RICE port, as indicated by TrypWyr and FJK.

[The Yin]

Here's how I've got it wired:
PEX -no resistor.jpg

This is blowing my mind. I cant see how this can be working. Unless there is a short on my LED itself (which is very possible), there shouldn't be a complete circuit for the FoC LEd dice. Also, I pulled the RICE port for now.


Another side note: The Petit Crouton is a beast!!!!
I've man handle it a bit when working with it, but earlier this evening was the biggest scare. I wanted to do a quick test before I had to leave the house again, and as I was plugging everything in (switches, Leds, battery), I accidentally plugged in my 7.4v battery pack to the plug for my accent LED. when I did, I heard the start up sound, but the Kill Plug was in!?!? I pulled the plug and hit the switch and I heard some garbled sound and no light. When I saw what I had done, I unplug the battery and set things right. Now it would power on, but my LED didn't light up. I pulled out the SD card, reformatted it, copied the backup to it, plugged the card back in, and the LED still didn't work.
At this point I had to leave anyway. But I was thinking I fried the LED current regulator.

When I got back I tested the accent LED plugs. Since sound and motion and clash/block where working, I wanted to test and see if the accent LED (where I plugged in the battery pack) would work.
IT DID! Both accent LEDs worked fine, so there was hope.
I inspected the board and, to my relief, found that the Main LED wires where shorted. At some point when putting the PC into the chassis holder, I had pushed the wires together.

Anyway, just wanted to share that with you guys. I wont have to spend another 130 for a replacement, and I know, even more so, who much of a beating the PC can take.


Oh yeah, and that FoC issue is still boggling me.

I'm going to bed,
Happy SaberinzZZzZZzzzzz

[Kevin Starwaster]

There is a definite known issue with Style 1 RICE grounding, and I forget what the exact fix is. It involved wiring the RICE ground to somewhere specific but I forget where.

You should also be able to use Teflon tape to insulate the the port (use it on the port threads) but I haven't tested that myself. Should work though.

[Forgetful Jedi Knight]

Here's how I've got it wired:
PEX -no resistor.jpg

This is blowing my mind. I cant see how this can be working. Unless there is a short on my LED itself (which is very possible), there shouldn't be a complete circuit for the FoC LEd dice. Also, I pulled the RICE port for now.


Another side note: The Petit Crouton is a beast!!!!
I've man handle it a bit when working with it, but earlier this evening was the biggest scare. I wanted to do a quick test before I had to leave the house again, and as I was plugging everything in (switches, Leds, battery), I accidentally plugged in my 7.4v battery pack to the plug for my accent LED. when I did, I heard the start up sound, but the Kill Plug was in!?!? I pulled the plug and hit the switch and I heard some garbled sound and no light. When I saw what I had done, I unplug the battery and set things right. Now it would power on, but my LED didn't light up. I pulled out the SD card, reformatted it, copied the backup to it, plugged the card back in, and the LED still didn't work.
At this point I had to leave anyway. But I was thinking I fried the LED current regulator.

When I got back I tested the accent LED plugs. Since sound and motion and clash/block where working, I wanted to test and see if the accent LED (where I plugged in the battery pack) would work.
IT DID! Both accent LEDs worked fine, so there was hope.
I inspected the board and, to my relief, found that the Main LED wires where shorted. At some point when putting the PC into the chassis holder, I had pushed the wires together.

Anyway, just wanted to share that with you guys. I wont have to spend another 130 for a replacement, and I know, even more so, who much of a beating the PC can take.


Oh yeah, and that FoC issue is still boggling me.

I'm going to bed,
Happy SaberinzZZzZZzzzzz

OK, your jumping around is a bit hard to follow. What are your current issues? The fact that FoC works?

Also, what main LED do you have wired to where? Also a complete schematic and pictures of EVERYTHING (LED, board(s)) would be helpful for us to help you out.