Wiring Nano Biscotti Board Spaces, Tolerances, and Build of Saber

[sammcloud2000]

Ok here it goes. I will try to keep things detailed and to the point. (You will have to click on pictures to enlarge them sorry)

My first step to tackle was the speaker, chassis, and spacing of the board and battery.
1. Speaker 2W- was an easy fit with sanding two spots of the speaker holder V4 in two places, where the soldering leads are. Dremel took care of that nicely.
2012-12-17_10-04-35_804.jpg
2.The spacing for me was an issue because I have never used this set up with the chassis but it worked beautifully.
2012-12-17_09-57-41_279.jpg2012-12-17_09-58-16_506.jpg

Now for the wiring part I have a wiring schematic which is ok (not an artist )http://forums.thecustomsabershop.com...977#post218977. It was a very good template for this project. My big thing is soldering I was so happy to see this board had holes to solder the wires to. That made it a lot easier to attach the 6 wire connector.

I cut the wire harness to the desired length and then stripped the ends. Twisted them and they fit perfectly in the soldering holes of the board.
2012-12-17_10-04-01_969.jpg

[sammcloud2000]

The helping hands posted above were awesome. Held the harness and the board exactly where I needed them for the board pictured below.
2012-12-17_10-40-04_843.jpg

I had no use for the 6th connection so i cut them off and used those for the speaker wire. The board slipped easily through the two holder disks as well.
2012-12-17_10-45-23_11.jpg

Now the next step was wiring the speaker to the board. This is where I had the most concern. It turned out quite nicely. I snaked them down the left side behind the board to the left of the card holder.
2012-12-17_10-55-43_477.jpg
You may notice i used 2 metal end disks on top of each other. The reason for that is it is the closest fit in between the pommel and body. A little gap yes but that is easily hidden with an O-ring or a number 7 activation box which I will show at the end.
2012-12-17_11-12-27_467.jpg

So the insides of the saber are pretty much done. Just had to break out the dremel and diamond cutting blade to get rid of the excess 4-40 threaded rod after fastening the whole thing with bolts. Also used a recharge port chassis disk for a sort of wiring guide up into the saber.
2012-12-17_11-16-30_591.jpg

[sammcloud2000]

Next was also very meticulous. Getting the wiring connected to the recharge port and the switch. Getting the connections together and heat shrinking was slow but so worth it. Red goes to the board, battery and led. Black goes to the battery, and last green goes to the negative of the board. My crayola diagram will show that when you click on the link towards the beginning of all of this.

The momentary switch was awesome and simple. I Have had a bad history with switches and wanted to keep this one, in my case, idiot proof. Screwed the leads right onto the switch.
Attachment 8061

My last step was to lay down the saber and make sure I could pull out the chassis and everything easily and it does. The led attachment I did two steps. set up the resistor between two female JST connections then connected to the saber and LED. This makes it so I can switch out the fried LED or a fried resistor. Or make other set ups with other leds to switch out with other sabers.
Attachment 8062

Last Is the final product. New SABER!!!
Attachment 8063
Activation box easily hides the gap between the body and pommel by the two metal end disks.
If you have any questions please feel free to contact me and I will try my best to answer them.

Hope this helps and take care!!

[MandoJoe]

Lookin' awesome so far.

[sammcloud2000]

Thanks a lot. I always have the moment before I turn it on of WHAT IF? That sucks but she runs like a dream gonna put a video up soon. Man Nano Board is definitely the way to go for nice soldering, sound, and an awesome price. Will mess with the fonts some other time considering i have a Mac and not a PC.

A couple pics of it lit up and glowing.
2012-12-17_15-35-48_895.jpg2012-12-17_15-36-08_827.jpg

[DarthAlice]

great project,Very nice rail set-up! I just finished up a nano install, plenty loud enough, I had to tweak the swing sensitivity to a lot lower setting to trigger swings the way I like (my board is pretty close to the center )

[sammcloud2000]

Thanks, yeah I am getting that with the swing setting but i gotta tackle that another time. I got 2600 MA of juice to run through first OH YEAH!!

Video up and running!

[venom]

As we all know, we should have 3.4-5.5 V with 2A MAX for nano biscotte, that means we should use at most 1 Li-Ion battery. However, in my case, I am using a white P4 led, which requires 4V and 1000mA. 1 Li-Ion only gives 3.7V and 900mAH, this means my led will be dimmer (W = I^2R) I am wondering if I can use 2 Li-Ion batteries but wil a resistor or constant current driver to feed the Nano biscotte? Thank you!!!

[Silver Serpent]

900mAh is a measure of storage, not current. Your LED will last approximately 9/10 of an hour with a battery that size (on paper). In practice, it'll be less than that.

A fully charged li-ion battery is 4.2v, though it runs around 3.7v for most of the charge range. It will be a bit dimmer, but not enough to worry about.

You can't use a resistor to limit voltage. Resistors limit current. You *could* use a 5v voltage regulator to restrict the battery pack output. In fact, it's done on the econo boards all the time. Honestly though, I'd use the Rebel White LED instead of the Seoul P4, as it only requires 3.1v @ 1000mA. You won't have to worry about trying to dissipate the extra heat from the voltage regulator.

[venom]

So that is to say if i choose to use Nano Biscotte, I will have to use 1 Li-Ion cell ONLY or else, I will waste lots of Energy as heat.Yet, in that case will the battery last not as long as using 2 cells? Also, I have heard that the Rebel white is not as bright as the P4... I am planning to use color discs as I am not sure about my color yet. The discs will probably make the led even dimmer if i use Rebel.