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Thread: DarthGM's First MHS Build Thread

  1. #21

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    Quote Originally Posted by DarthGM View Post
    So adjust the setting on the NB for the blade, and still sodder in a resistor for the yellow AV switch?
    Exactly. The 3.3V pad for accent lights is the regulated internal voltage that the NB's computer runs on -- that never changes.

  2. #22

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    keep it long! some of the best swordsman in the world used long handles or "Tsuka" Samurai Katana handles are anywhere between 12"-16".

  3. #23

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    Folks, I'm a little confused on something.

    If I have a recharge port, do I need a Kill Key? What's a kill-key for anyway?
    Phil Maiewski, Alderaan Base Executive Officer
    Maynard, MA
    Costumes:Clone Commander Fil in the Rebel Legion
    CC/CT/TB-4043 in the 501st Legion
    Check out Fragments from the Rim: a Star Wars Gaming and Costuming blog

  4. #24

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    Yes you need a kill key, without one you have nothing to drop the power to board (it breaks connection between board and batt. in the recharge port).
    "A foolish man fights a fight he'll lose, and lose foolishly".

  5. #25

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    Ugh. There goes my idea of tucking the recharge port in the wiring inside hilt, and only pulling it out when I want to recharge the blade. Guess I'll get the pommel insert with a hole for the recharge port and hope it doesn't mess with the sound projection too much.


    =\
    Phil Maiewski, Alderaan Base Executive Officer
    Maynard, MA
    Costumes:Clone Commander Fil in the Rebel Legion
    CC/CT/TB-4043 in the 501st Legion
    Check out Fragments from the Rim: a Star Wars Gaming and Costuming blog

  6. #26

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    If you have the Nano Biscotte and no LEDs are on while the saber is in standby, then you don't actually need the kill key in the saber while it's not being used. You will still want to have a kill key handy for when you need to pull the SD card to swap fonts or change settings, but the kill key doesn't need to remain in the saber.

    If you have an accent LED that is illuminated while the saber is off, then the battery will drain constantly, and you'll want a kill key when you're not using the saber.
    We all have to start somewhere. The journey is all the more impressive by our humble beginnings.

    http://led.linear1.org/1led.wiz for the lazy man's resistor calculator!
    http://forums.thecustomsabershop.com...e-to-Ohm-s-Law for getting resistor values the right way!

  7. #27

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    Quote Originally Posted by DarthGM View Post
    Guess I'll get the pommel insert with a hole for the recharge port and hope it doesn't mess with the sound projection too much.
    It'll be fine. I put both a recharge port and an illuminated AV switch in front of the speaker, and even all that didn't impact the sound. The pommel is one of the best places to put that port because you can effectively flush-mount it by putting the nut on the inside of the body and not worry about it, say, breaking if someone drops the saber. Also, it's damn nigh invisible that way.

  8. #28

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    Well, parts ordered!

    I got a Kill-Key anyway because hey; what's $5 more bucks on top of all this. I also added that c-clip thing that holds the pommel insert in place. I think I need one of those...

    I'll be wiring the recharge port into the pommel, in front of the speaker. Got the right pommel insert for a recharge port.

    Once I get the order in, it's down to test fitting all the parts and then trying my hand at putting it all together. Biggest saber project I've done this far.

    Pics to follow!
    Phil Maiewski, Alderaan Base Executive Officer
    Maynard, MA
    Costumes:Clone Commander Fil in the Rebel Legion
    CC/CT/TB-4043 in the 501st Legion
    Check out Fragments from the Rim: a Star Wars Gaming and Costuming blog

  9. #29

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    I got my parts!

    *looks at them all*

    ...huh...okay, so based on your recommendations here, I've hit a snag...

    I don't know where the recharge port fits into all this, nor where the resistor goes for the AV switch.

    MWS diagram.jpg

    Help?
    Phil Maiewski, Alderaan Base Executive Officer
    Maynard, MA
    Costumes:Clone Commander Fil in the Rebel Legion
    CC/CT/TB-4043 in the 501st Legion
    Check out Fragments from the Rim: a Star Wars Gaming and Costuming blog

  10. #30

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    Recharge port goes between your battery and the board. http://forums.thecustomsabershop.com...1391#post51391 has the directions.

    Resistor can go on either the red wire OR the black wire between the AV switch LED and the board. Keep in mind that the switch LED has to be wired up separately. It's not part of the prewired harness.
    We all have to start somewhere. The journey is all the more impressive by our humble beginnings.

    http://led.linear1.org/1led.wiz for the lazy man's resistor calculator!
    http://forums.thecustomsabershop.com...e-to-Ohm-s-Law for getting resistor values the right way!

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