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Thread: DarthGM's First MHS Build Thread

  1. #11

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    That does look better, and you will have generous internal space. Though you might consider leaving the 4" grooved extension uncoated and maybe making the pommel green.

  2. #12

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    Progress! And parts acquired! I've been picking up parts over the past few months, as money allows. I'm almost ready to get the next round of parts, but I want to double check and see what I'm missing.

    Here's what I've got thus far...

    •1 of: 4" Double Female Grooved without holes
    •1 of: Hilt style 4 with standard style switch hole
    •1 of: 1/2" Aluminum 3/16" OD spacer (Black)
    •10 of: Stainless Steel 4-40 Hex nut
    •1 of: Chassis Disc style 1 with holes
    •1 of: MHS speaker mount V4
    •2 of: Stainless 4-40 all thread
    •1 of: Acrylic Chassis Disc for NB and 18500/18650 pack (Blue)
    •1 of: Premium Speaker
    •1 of: Li-Ion 18650 3.7V 2600mAh PCB Protected Rechargeable Battery Module
    •1 of: Nano Biscotte Sound Module V1
    •1 of: Rebel Star LED & MHS Heatsink Module
    •5 of: JST connectors

    I'm using MWS parts.

    Here's what I have left to order...

    MPS Pommel style 10
    Double ended male threaded connector style 1
    Machined button for Covertec clip
    Activation box style 4
    NB MWS Header and Wiring Harness
    Screw on LED blade holder style 22
    8-32 x 3/8" socket head (3)
    8-32 x 1/8" Set screw
    16mm Anti Vandal Short Momentary Yellow Ring Switch
    2.1mm Power Jack
    2.1mm plug adapter for smart charger
    3.7V-14.8V Li-Ion Smart charger


    First question; should I pick up a buckpuck, since I'm using a NB sound card? I think I could splice in resistors where needed, but if I can save some soddering I think I'd like to go that route.

    Second question; can anyone see anything I'm missing?
    Phil Maiewski, Alderaan Base Executive Officer
    Maynard, MA
    Costumes:Clone Commander Fil in the Rebel Legion
    CC/CT/TB-4043 in the 501st Legion
    Check out Fragments from the Rim: a Star Wars Gaming and Costuming blog

  3. #13

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    You can use a buckpuck, though you're not going to have less soldering if you go that route. You'll still need a resistor for the Yellow LED in your switch. The buckpuck will give you better battery life than a simple resistor, but it takes up more room. Either way is fine, just pick one.

    I don't see a pommel insert or a c-clip. Everything else looks good.
    We all have to start somewhere. The journey is all the more impressive by our humble beginnings.

    http://led.linear1.org/1led.wiz for the lazy man's resistor calculator!
    http://forums.thecustomsabershop.com...e-to-Ohm-s-Law for getting resistor values the right way!

  4. #14

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    Quote Originally Posted by Silver Serpent View Post
    You can use a buckpuck, though you're not going to have less soldering if you go that route. You'll still need a resistor for the Yellow LED in your switch. The buckpuck will give you better battery life than a simple resistor, but it takes up more room. Either way is fine, just pick one.

    I don't see a pommel insert or a c-clip. Everything else looks good.
    I don't think space will be too much of an issue; I think I've got some real-estate to spare between the activator switch and the blade holder. And I do like your comment about "extended battery life".

    Which buckpuck do I need? 1000 mA or 700 mA?

    Either case; resistor needed for the yellow LED; got it.
    Phil Maiewski, Alderaan Base Executive Officer
    Maynard, MA
    Costumes:Clone Commander Fil in the Rebel Legion
    CC/CT/TB-4043 in the 501st Legion
    Check out Fragments from the Rim: a Star Wars Gaming and Costuming blog

  5. #15

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    Which buckpuck you choose depends on the color of your blade. I see you intend to use a Rebel LED.

    Rebel Amber, Red, Red/Orange, and Deep Red will need the 700mA buckpuck. All the other colors will use the 1000mA buckpuck.
    We all have to start somewhere. The journey is all the more impressive by our humble beginnings.

    http://led.linear1.org/1led.wiz for the lazy man's resistor calculator!
    http://forums.thecustomsabershop.com...e-to-Ohm-s-Law for getting resistor values the right way!

  6. #16

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    Quote Originally Posted by DarthGM View Post
    First question; should I pick up a buckpuck, since I'm using a NB sound card?
    No. You're using a 3.7V battery. Buckpucks (at least the one's Tim sells, which are typical) are 5V min input -- they're for when you have higher battery voltages. You just need a resistor (if you're using red/yellow) or a slight tweak of the "drive" setting, if you prefer (for cyan/green/blue/white).

    Again, your battery voltage is just slightly above the forward voltage of the LED, so a resistor works just fine. If you were running off a 4 alkaline pack (6V) or a 7.4V back, then a buckpuck would be way more efficient (and safer!) than just using a resistor to drop the voltage into the LED.

  7. #17

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    Blade Color is blue.

    What is this "slight tweak of the "drive" setting" you mention? Something in the NB?
    Phil Maiewski, Alderaan Base Executive Officer
    Maynard, MA
    Costumes:Clone Commander Fil in the Rebel Legion
    CC/CT/TB-4043 in the 501st Legion
    Check out Fragments from the Rim: a Star Wars Gaming and Costuming blog

  8. #18

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    Quote Originally Posted by DarthGM View Post
    Blade Color is blue.

    What is this "slight tweak of the "drive" setting" you mention? Something in the NB?
    Rebel Star Blue? Vf = 3.4. Vbatt = 3.7.

    So, turn to page 17 of the NB manual: drive = 1023 * (3.4/3.7) = 940.

    So in your config file, set "drive 940" and the voltage the NB delivers to the LED is now 3.4 instead of 3.7.

  9. #19

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    Ahh, Xev is right. I forgot about the 5v minimum for buckpucks.
    We all have to start somewhere. The journey is all the more impressive by our humble beginnings.

    http://led.linear1.org/1led.wiz for the lazy man's resistor calculator!
    http://forums.thecustomsabershop.com...e-to-Ohm-s-Law for getting resistor values the right way!

  10. #20

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    Ah, gotcha! Thanks, Xev!

    So adjust the setting on the NB for the blade, and still sodder in a resistor for the yellow AV switch?


    Quote Originally Posted by Silver Serpent View Post
    Ahh, Xev is right. I forgot about the 5v minimum for buckpucks.
    You have failed me for the last time!

    *extends hand*

    *nothing happens*

    ...okay, you get a pass today...
    Phil Maiewski, Alderaan Base Executive Officer
    Maynard, MA
    Costumes:Clone Commander Fil in the Rebel Legion
    CC/CT/TB-4043 in the 501st Legion
    Check out Fragments from the Rim: a Star Wars Gaming and Costuming blog

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