DarthGM's First MHS Build Thread

[DarthGM]

Greetings, sabersmiths!

After lurking here seemingly forever, I've finally decided to take the plunge into building my own saber with MHS and MWS parts. I'm going to have to use my novice soldering skills to get my sound-card wired with JST connectors.

Here's what I got...

1st Saber.jpg

• MPS Pommel style 10
• MPS (Pommel) Insert style 1
• Hilt style 4 with standard style switch hole (Style 2 Ivy Green powder coating)
• MHS ribbed extension v-grooved (Style 2 Ivy Green powder coating)
• Screw on LED blade holder style 22
• 1 1/2" Aluminum 3/16" OD spacer (Black)
• 10 Stainless Steel 4-40 Hex nut
• 1 Chassis Disc style 1 with holes
• 1 MHS speaker mount V4
• 2 Stainless 4-40 all thread
• 1 Acrylic Chassis Disc for NB and 18500/18650 pack (Blue)
• 1 Premium Speaker
• 1 Li-Ion 18650 3.7V 2600mAh PCB Protected Rechargeable Battery Module
• 1 Rebel Star LED & MHS Heatsink Module
• 1 Nano Biscotte Sound Module V1
• 1 Rebel Star LED & MHS Heatsink Module
• 5 JST connectors
• 16mm Anti Vandal Momentary Orange Ring Switch
• Activation box style 9
• 2.1mm Power Jack
• 8-32 Covertec Button Thumbscrew (Clear)

Main problem I see is the size. This sucker is 16" long. However, a good part of that is the blade-holder, which is 4". It's got a grip area of 12", which isn't too bad. Beefy for a one handed wield but good spacing for two hands. I might move the Covtec clip to be on the same "ring" as the activation box, so it doesn't hang so low off the belt and to give my left hand a clear space to grip the saber.

This hilt should be roomy enough for the electronics I want to put in her too without needing a black belt in cram-fu, yes?

Now I just have to figure out a wiring diagram and propert resistors...

Anyone see anything that's a glaring problem to them, but a novice like me might miss?

[MandoJoe]

I see you have two accent LED's (Your Orange Ring Switch and your Green LED indicator) and the NB isn't designed to drive accent LED's on it's own (that I know of). You'll need the proper resistors for those (which can be found in the store).

That and the length are the only things I'd address. I know my saber, which has a pommel, main body, choke, and blade holder, is 12 inches. With my dominant hand on the choke (which your blade holder gives you), I've still got the whole rest of the main body left over for my off hand. If it were me, I'd consider replacing your main body with an extension piece of a shorter length. But that's just me.

[DarthGM]

I see you have two accent LED's (Your Orange Ring Switch and your Green LED indicator) and the NB isn't designed to drive accent LED's on it's own (that I know of). You'll need the proper resistors for those (which can be found in the store).

That and the length are the only things I'd address. I know my saber, which has a pommel, main body, choke, and blade holder, is 12 inches. With my dominant hand on the choke (which your blade holder gives you), I've still got the whole rest of the main body left over for my off hand. If it were me, I'd consider replacing your main body with an extension piece of a shorter length. But that's just me.

Ah, hah! I see! So the Lighted AV switch counts as both the switch and the Accent LED. I'll get rid of the accent and change the box to one for just the AV switch and the Recharge Port. Thanks, Joe!

Hmmm...a long AV will work in a Type 9 activation box and an MHS hilt, yes?

I'd think about getting a shorter "main body", but I didn't like any of the other extensions. The rings in the Hilt 4 style isn't available in shorter, 3" Extensions, and I'd still want the aestetics of the blank section between the V-ridges extension and the rings on the main body. Going right from the v-ridges to the rings would look odd.

To me anyway.

[Xevious]

You'll also need at least a couple 3/4" long spacers for the NB discs and probably a speaker holder.

I'd think about getting a shorter "main body", but I didn't like any of the other extensions. The rings in the Hilt 4 style isn't available in shorter, 3" Extensions, and I'd still want the aestetics of the blank section between the V-ridges extension and the rings on the main body. Going right from the v-ridges to the rings would look odd.

Have you considered omitting the v-ridge section? You have 3 different style elements going-on in that hilt, and you're rightly worried that two do not look good next to each other. Maybe it's just too "busy."

[MandoJoe]

Ah, hah! I see! So the Lighted AV switch counts as both the switch and the Accent LED. I'll get rid of the accent and change the box to one for just the AV switch and the Recharge Port. Thanks, Joe!

Hmmm...a long AV will work in a Type 9 activation box and an MHS hilt, yes?

Yes. It'll screw in, but It's not going to leave you with much room in the hilt for wiring and such. I've got the box 10 on my saber, and a short AV switch, and it doesn't leave a whole heck of a lot of room for wires without sharp bending. If you're set on a long AV switch, I'd go with one of the taller boxes.

[DarthGM]

You'll also need at least a couple 3/4" long spacers for the NB discs and probably a speaker holder.

Have you considered omitting the v-ridge section? You have 3 different style elements going-on in that hilt, and you're rightly worried that two do not look good next to each other. Maybe it's just too "busy."

Ah, they're 3/4", okay. I'll get some spacers.

I thought I had a speaker holder...

•1 MHS speaker mount V4

And I've thought about removing the V-ridge section. I don't know, I'm kinda fond of it. Maybe I need to choose a different main body...

Yes. It'll screw in, but It's not going to leave you with much room in the hilt for wiring and such. I've got the box 10 on my saber, and a short AV switch, and it doesn't leave a whole heck of a lot of room for wires without sharp bending. If you're set on a long AV switch, I'd go with one of the taller boxes.

More like I'm set on "Orange" and they're out of stock on the Orange ringed short AV switches.

I suppose I could just wait until it's in stock again...

[Xevious]

And I've thought about removing the V-ridge section. I don't know, I'm kinda fond of it. Maybe I need to choose a different main body...

Just remember that the inner diameter of the ribbed sections are too small for the chassis discs, so you'll need to pack your speaker+NB+battery into your main body or regular extension. Ribbed sections are more like chokes in that regard.

I'm going to try cramming that all into a 4" section (remembering that threading can bring that down to about 3" usable inside) soon, but haven't done it yet.

[MandoJoe]

More like I'm set on "Orange" and they're out of stock on the Orange ringed short AV switches.

I suppose I could just wait until it's in stock again...

Or, if you're absolutely set on building it now, you could order it from elsewhere. I'm loathe to suggest anything but TCSS (since I know ordering from here is the best option, in my opinion), but there are other places that sell those types of switches.

[DarthGM]

Or, if you're absolutely set on building it now, you could order it from elsewhere. I'm loathe to suggest anything but TCSS (since I know ordering from here is the best option, in my opinion), but there are other places that sell those types of switches.

I have to wait for the 15th for the powder-coating I want anyway. Maybe Orange AV switches will magically appear between now and then.

[DarthGM]

Poking around with the Saber Builder, I came up with this...

1.1 Saber.jpg

It's got potential...I kinda dig it. It's not as busy as the previous design, and it's an inch shorter at 15.6".