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Thread: DarthGM's First MHS Build Thread

  1. #41

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    ...okay, well that works now.

    Thank you!

    Now, on to the Switch-so-it's-on-only-when-lit-part...what wire do I splice in and where? Am I wiring the red wire that was in the board into the red wire leading to the main LED?

    Why do I need a different Resistor? According to the LED calculator, it says I need a 100 1/8 for the Yellow LED with a 3.7V power supply?
    Phil Maiewski, Alderaan Base Executive Officer
    Maynard, MA
    Costumes:Clone Commander Fil in the Rebel Legion
    CC/CT/TB-4043 in the 501st Legion
    Check out Fragments from the Rim: a Star Wars Gaming and Costuming blog

  2. #42

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    Yes, splice the red wire that was on the board into the red wire leading to the main LED.

    You need to at least recalculate your resistor. The accent pad on the NB gives 3.3v, while running it from the battery will give it 3.7v. The yellow AV switch http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/16...itch-P617.aspx runs 2.1v @ 20mA. The resistor you need @ 3.3v is 68 ohm, while the resistor you need @ 3.7v is 82 ohm. If you're already using a 100 ohm resistor, then it'll work fine.
    We all have to start somewhere. The journey is all the more impressive by our humble beginnings.

    http://led.linear1.org/1led.wiz for the lazy man's resistor calculator!
    http://forums.thecustomsabershop.com...e-to-Ohm-s-Law for getting resistor values the right way!

  3. #43

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    I got nuthin'.

    100_2047.jpg

    I can't get the fine wire solder to connect the pins to the board. It just beads up into tiny bearings and if I'm lucky they form a connection between the pin and the ring on the board.

    When I can get the rig to light, the AV switch is on all the time.

    Oh, and there's no sound coming out the speaker.

    I....I just don't even know.

    EDIT: I just realized that when I pulled the board from the MWS attachment, then put it back in place for the photo, I put the board in upside down. When it was wire up earlier, it was in the correct orientation. =\
    Last edited by DarthGM; 02-05-2013 at 08:08 PM. Reason: Extra details about the photo.
    Phil Maiewski, Alderaan Base Executive Officer
    Maynard, MA
    Costumes:Clone Commander Fil in the Rebel Legion
    CC/CT/TB-4043 in the 501st Legion
    Check out Fragments from the Rim: a Star Wars Gaming and Costuming blog

  4. #44

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    Let your iron heat up more. Then heat the pins, NOT the solder. The solder will flow onto the parts just fine if they've been properly heated.
    We all have to start somewhere. The journey is all the more impressive by our humble beginnings.

    http://led.linear1.org/1led.wiz for the lazy man's resistor calculator!
    http://forums.thecustomsabershop.com...e-to-Ohm-s-Law for getting resistor values the right way!

  5. #45

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    Quote Originally Posted by Silver Serpent View Post
    Let your iron heat up more. Then heat the pins, NOT the solder. The solder will flow onto the parts just fine if they've been properly heated.
    Aright. I'll try that.

    Thanks SS.
    Phil Maiewski, Alderaan Base Executive Officer
    Maynard, MA
    Costumes:Clone Commander Fil in the Rebel Legion
    CC/CT/TB-4043 in the 501st Legion
    Check out Fragments from the Rim: a Star Wars Gaming and Costuming blog

  6. #46

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    I'd really like to know what if you managed to accomplish this or not. I seem to be about on par with you for knowledge of all this wiring gunk. It's also an easy thread to follow for wiring, well, up until it stops here.

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