Another nub wiring question (vader board and buck puck)

[brakndawnt]

Ok, just did wiring for the first time. Board works, sound works, leds work. In short, i have a 6 wire 700mA buck puck that i thought i needed, but didn't use. You'll see from the diagram I used a 9v for testing. I plan to replace that with three 3.7v li_ion batteries. Also, in testing, the switch (momentary) will not turn off the setup, it just stays on. Is this because the board originally had a toggle switch, or is the switch just faulty?

Anywho, could someone please maybe help me wire in the BP into my schematic? Also, does anyone know why the switch isn't working? Should i wire it differently or get a new switch?

Thanks in advance for your help, I have no idea what I'm doing. Without these boards, i wouldn't have what i do already.

IMG_20121116_071345.jpg

[Silver Serpent]

LED+ from the board goes to VIN+ (red) on the buckpuck. LED- from the board goes to VIN- (black) on the buckpuck. On the buckpuck, connect LED+ (white) to your LED+ pad, and the LED- (blue) to your LED- pad.

If your board originally had a toggle switch, then you will need a latching switch, not a momentary.

I'm pretty sure 9v is too much to give that board. 3 li-ions will probably smoke it. What was the original power supply? 3 or 4 alkalines?

[brakndawnt]

The original was 3 AAs. The LED is rated for 331 lumens at 700mA. I'm no lumen expert, but when the LEDs were on, it seemed like they weren't outputting near that much. I assumed upping to better batteries would do the trick. Is it a limitation of the board then and not the power supply?

[Silver Serpent]

9v batteries are terrible for lightsabers. They can't push out the current that you need to light a high-powered LED. Try it with 3 fresh AA alkalines and see if that fixes your brightness issue.

[brakndawnt]

Thanks for your help. I'll try AAs tonight and update how it works. And thanks for the help with wiring. Can't wait to get this thing up and running.