placing speaker by blade emitter

[Child0fTheMind]

Anyone else hate that the sound comes out of the pommel instead of sounding like its coming from the blade? I do, so im working on fitting the speaker unit to sit just below the LED, projecting its sound in the direction of the blade. Anyone have some tips on how I can accomplish this? The only real issue is the wires for the LED not being able to go around the speaker to connect to the internals.

The easiest workaround I can think of is to drill a hole below where the speaker sits and just below the LED and have the wires go along the outside, covered by a shroud...

[amwolf]

Lots of sabers in the gallery use "reverse sound" setups, with the speaker facing the blade yet staying inside the MHS parts. If you're using one of the Shop's speaker mounts, they have to be modified to allow the LED (and whatever else if forward of the speaker) wires to pass - you can cut grooves or just chop out a section as needed. Just don't take too much or the holder won't do its job, or you'll have to try hot glue or something to help hold it in. Remember to drill some holes to allow the sound to escape, but if you're using a shroud you can hide those holes...

[Lord Dottore Matto]

Anyone else hate that the sound comes out of the pommel instead of sounding like its coming from the blade? I do, so im working on fitting the speaker unit to sit just below the LED, projecting its sound in the direction of the blade. Anyone have some tips on how I can accomplish this? The only real issue is the wires for the LED not being able to go around the speaker to connect to the internals.

The easiest workaround I can think of is to drill a hole below where the speaker sits and just below the LED and have the wires go along the outside, covered by a shroud...

The process/technique/effect is called Reverse Sound (tm). It was invented/developed by a prominent member of our community if I recall....some time around 2007-2008.

The way you suggest sounds like it will work well.

[Caine Drathul]

You are thinking about this too much. You do not need to do any crazy modifications to make reverse sound work. One rather easy way to do it is just cut a piece of PVC to stop the speaker from moving, and pass the wires by it, then hot glue said speaker in place. You can put a thin layer of hot glue around the speaker to prevent shorts. Boom. DUN.

And if you use this method, make sure to give proper credit to the member who developed this technique when you post it. His name is right above this, in the previous post.

[patolcott]

LOL that is pretty funny

[amwolf]

My apologies, LDM, I should have given proper credit. I'll go sit quietly in the corner now.

[Crystal Chambers]

I don't care for pommel oriented sound either. All my hilts are "reverse sound". I really wish LDM came up with a better term since the common standard with master replica/hasbro has always been the reversed of what it should be.

I've run as many as ten wires past a speaker by simple filing channels out of the speaker holder and fixing them in place with a dab of hot glue. Alternatively you can also achieve a lot of forward oriented sound by simply allowing room for sound to travel up from the pommel to sound vents near your blade holder.

[Lord Dottore Matto]

I don't care for pommel oriented sound either. All my hilts are "reverse sound". I really wish LDM came up with a better term since the common standard with master replica/hasbro has always been the reversed of what it should be.

I've run as many as ten wires past a speaker by simple filing channels out of the speaker holder and fixing them in place with a dab of hot glue. Alternatively you can also achieve a lot of forward oriented sound by simply allowing room for sound to travel up from the pommel to sound vents near your blade holder.

This is a very nice suggestion, Caine's is also perfectly valid. I have done both.

My apologies, LDM, I should have given proper credit. I'll go sit quietly in the corner now.

LOL, no need for that, you gave him good information

[Jay-gon Jinn]

Alternatively you can also achieve a lot of forward oriented sound by simply allowing room for sound to travel up from the pommel to sound vents near your blade holder.

Which was also pioneered by a prominent member of our community. He just didn't give it a fancy name.

[Johannes Huber]

Hi!,

There's one question where I'm not clear here and was hoping someone can clear up. The internal wiring is quite logical and I did something similar with a recharge port while being unaware of the technique but I'm a little less clear on "hiding" the holes using a shroud. I went searching through the threads using "reverse sound" as the search term and found a number of sabers with holes drilled in a choke or other piece of a hilt and open to the outside, which makes perfect sense, but what I'm not so clear on is the suggestion of holes in the saber, "hidden" by the shroud. Does this mean a hole through both shroud and saber which would not seem to hide the hole, or is there a hole in the MHS (or other) inner piece and this is covered by a shroud without an opening. The second possibilty doesn't make much sense to me since I would think that would prevent the sound from escaping the hilt, but it would definitely hide the hole. My apologies for what may seem a obvious question but, as I said, while there are a number of very impressive sabers listed on the board (and it was, as always, lots of fun looking at them...) with "reverse sound", I could not find an example that seemed to show how the shroud/hilt/reverse sound was achieved. My apologies in advance if I missed a thread on either how it is done or a saber that showed the application in a form that I could pick out. Thanks for any help!

Johannes