First custom saber attempt - MHS Mara Jade replica

[james3]

I use a set screw to hold my blades in the holder. The thumb screw is just to big and bulky for my tastes and I also hold the saber real close to the top so it tended to get in my way.

[Jedi-Loreen]

Nice tap and die set, James.

I learned how to use all kinds of tools when I used to be an ATM technician for Bank of America.

Many of which have served me well when I started to get into saber making.

[james3]

Yep, same here. One of my brother's jumped on a saber that I built from CCTV parts and gun parts. Learning to use a large variety of tools and technology I think is a great idea for everyone that can take advantage of it.

[joe104]

i like the look if you get it done post up some pictures

[Spencer_P]

However, there are still a few things I haven't quite figured out yet, so I thought I would post here and see if anyone had any helpful advice for me.

1. The blade holder. It's a simplified version of style 8, so I think I need to ask Tim about a custom order, without the additional machining to narrow the diameter.

2. The "switch". I haven't had a chance to peruse the hardware store yet, so I'm not sure where to find the big bracket, the ribbed ring that circles the hilt, or the small "buttons" on top - some replicas use LEDs but I have yet to find two replicas that are the same, so I do have a bit of play in this area. (I am planning on using the normal MHS hole for the actual, functioning power switch, ala the Parks sabers.)

3. The rails on the lower end of the hilt that are riveted on. They seem simple enough though, so I'm hoping I can walk into a hardware store and find them already cut.

4. Drilling holes. What do I need to know about drilling holes in the aluminum (the MHS hilts are aluminum, right?) for the rivets? What tools do I need for this? (I've never used a Dremel before, and have no idea of its wonders...)

5. Blind-rivets, also known as pop-rivets. Does anyone know if I'll still have room in the hilt for the electronics if I pepper the hilt with blind-rivets? I've never used them before, so I'm not sure how far they will protrude into the blind side of the hilt.

Many thanks in advance. I'm so excited - I totally cannot wait to order the parts and get started! I just want to make sure I've covered all of my bases before I shell out all the $$ and then find out I can't actually assemble it.

-Jaded

I actually did a hardware LED saber modeled after Jade's lightsaber, so maybe I can help.

2. I used two pieces of aluminum U-shaped stuff. The smaller piece happens to fit well inside the larger piece. I attached it directly to the hilt, skipping the ribbed ring thing entirely. I used a buttonhead machine screw and a socket head cap screw.
Incidently, I would recommend getting a power switch that doesn't cause the blade to flicker when you tap it, since switch on this saber is located right where your hands are. This switch would probably work well, although I havn't tried it personally: http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/sa...?idproduct=188



3. Those grips were a major pain for me to make. If you can get them precut from that place Jedi Ranger mentioned, it'll probably save you some time. You'll still have to drill the holes though.

4. Be careful when you drill. If you put a hole in the wrong place, it's hard to move it. Take your time and measure well. You may want to get some extra grip pieces in case you mess up a few. For my hilt, I drilled the holes in all the grips first, and then used each grip as a template to help me drill the two specific holes that would fit that grip in the main body of the saber. Once I got the first grip riveted in, I was able to use it as a guide to help me get all the other grips lined up and drilled right. Jedi Ranger may have a better way to get all the grips lined up.
I used 1/2" wide by 1/8" thick aluminum for my grips. Ten pieces of this stuff fit almost perfectly around the circumference of a 1.5" diameter sinktube.

5. I used rivets and was able to fit my stuff in (battery pack, switch, and LED with heatsink). The rivets make it rather tight inside though, and you may have trouble gettting your battery pack in and out.
Actually, from the pictures I've seen of various Mara hilts, I think that buttonhead screws are what should be used, although I don't know exactly what the original Mara hilt looked like. The only thing about buttonheads is that they cost more than rivets.
Here's a photo of the inside of my hilt:



And here's a couple of general photos:


EDIT: Hey, I'm an apprentice at last! Yee ha!

[Jedi-Loreen]

Wow, nice job!

Any pics of it lit up, with a blade?

[Spencer_P]

Thanks! Sure, here's one of the blade:

[Jedi-Loreen]

Ooooh, purty!

[JediMcD]

Nice job with that saber. I like the metal grips. How did you create the circular indentions around the middle of the hilt

[Lord Maul]

could yo upost a pic of the whole hilt?