Putting an AV Switch in an Ultrasabers "no sound" Hilt; possible?

[DarthGM]

So I'm not sure where to ask this, but I'll take a stab at the dark here.

I've aquired an Ultrasabers hilt, with their standard latching switches that they use for hilts with "no sound" options. It's boring as all hell, and wanted to know if it could be replaced with one of the illuminated AV switches.

US doesn't have that option through their site, you can only get them with their "blades with sound" option. But I see other smiths that build blades with no sound that use AV illuminated switches.

Anyone know if it's possible to do this? Or what switch I'd need? Or what battery set up I'd need? It's on of their "Aeon v2" models and currently uses AA batteries to power.

Thanks for your time!

[Silver Serpent]

It's certainly possible. You'll likely need to drill out the original switch hole and re-tap it for a 16mm AV switch. http://forums.thecustomsabershop.com...d-measurements has measurements for most switches and such sold here.

You'll want a latching switch and a resistor. The exact resistor value is dependant on your battery source and the color of the switch LED.

However, there is another option...

You could always build yourself a brand new saber from scratch. Adding bling to a boring saber just results in a boring saber with bling. http://forums.thecustomsabershop.com...mhsbuilder.php has a ton of possibilities if you feel like trying to build one yourself. Soundless stunt sabers are really easy to wire, and you can even add sound later if you feel up to the task.

[DarthGM]

It's certainly possible. You'll likely need to drill out the original switch hole and re-tap it for a 16mm AV switch. http://forums.thecustomsabershop.com...d-measurements has measurements for most switches and such sold here.

Mmmm...knowledge. Thank you!

You'll want a latching switch and a resistor. The exact resistor value is dependant on your battery source and the color of the switch LED.

Battery Source is 2 AA batteries, I think. Not 100% certain, it's at home and I can't recall the power pack exactly. AV Switch will be Red. Any thoughts on what I'm looking for?

(DarthGM <--- TOTAL N00B! Look at his N00bness! It is mighty and fraught with danger!)

However, there is another option...

You could always build yourself a brand new saber from scratch. Adding bling to a boring saber just results in a boring saber with bling. http://forums.thecustomsabershop.com...mhsbuilder.php has a ton of possibilities if you feel like trying to build one yourself. Soundless stunt sabers are really easy to wire, and you can even add sound later if you feel up to the task.

I could if I had the cash to spend on a whole new saber. And even if I do that, I'll still have this hilt that is simple and boring.

This is a low-cost route to make an existing saber more interesting, and should be good to practice on for when I'm ready and able to make my own saber from start to finish.

At any rate, I appreciate the reply! Thanks for the guidance!

[Silver Serpent]

http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/16...itch-P703.aspx is a good choice, as it's a short latching AV switch with the red you're looking for. There are other latching red AV switches in the store, but they are longer and may be more difficult to fit in the hilt.

http://led.linear1.org/1led.wiz is your friend for calculating resistors.

2 AA alkaline batteries are 3v, the switch LED has a forward voltage of 2.1v and runs at 20mA. You will want to run the switch LED in parallel with your main LED, so they will both turn on at the same time. http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Parallel_wiring if you don't know what I'm talking about.

[DarthGM]

http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/16...itch-P703.aspx is a good choice, as it's a short latching AV switch with the red you're looking for. There are other latching red AV switches in the store, but they are longer and may be more difficult to fit in the hilt.

http://led.linear1.org/1led.wiz is your friend for calculating resistors.

2 AA alkaline batteries are 3v, the switch LED has a forward voltage of 2.1v and runs at 20mA. You will want to run the switch LED in parallel with your main LED, so they will both turn on at the same time. http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Parallel_wiring if you don't know what I'm talking about.

hmmm...says I need a 47 ohms, 1/8w resistor or greater. What number needs to be greater? The 47 ohms or the 1/8?
http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/Resistors-C19.aspx

Does this work?
http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/82...istor-P23.aspx

[Silver Serpent]

Wattage is a minimum. You can always use a higher wattage resistor without affecting the circuit. Don't go overboard, as 10w resistors are huge.

For resistance (ohms) you want a value as close as possible to the calculated value. If you go lower, the LED will be brighter but have a shorter lifespan. Too much lower and the lifespan is measured in seconds. If you use a higher value, the LED will be dimmer. Too high and the LED will refuse to light up.

Unfortunately, I don't see an ideal resistor for your setup in the store. I would double-check the battery setup before placing an order. The 82ohm resistor wouldn't damage anything, but it may be too dim for your liking. You may have to run to Radio Shack or some similar place for a pack of resistors. If you do, I recommend getting an assorted pack of various values, so you can play around with it.

[DarthGM]

Next problem; "drilling out the hole" to fit the AV switch.

Best I can figure out, I'm looking for a M16x1 tap. I'm also seeing "15mm tap".

CRIPES taps are expensive...cheapest I'm seeing are $35 for ONE TAP.

GAH...at this point for the price of the conversion I COULD buy parts and build from scratch.

Am I missing something here?

[Silver Serpent]

Yes, M16x1 tap is the correct one. It's not one of the more common sizes, so it tends to be a bit more expensive. I've seen them as low as $20ish.

Other tap sizes are much cheaper, but then you have to find an illuminated switch to fit.

[Jay-gon Jinn]

That may be the correct tap, but it is not needed....you really do not thread the hilt for the av switch to screw in, all you need to do is drill a 5/8" hole and use the included nut that comes with the switch to secure it. Screwing in a switch that has wires soldered to it is not an easy task, and usually winds up twisting the wires off the switch.

[Silver Serpent]

That's a much more elegant solution (and cheaper too). I've always used activation boxes with my AV switches, so mine are always screwed in place prior to soldering.