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Thread: Lightsaber Help on some questions, LONG PARTS LIST

  1. #11

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    ok i revised it

    Question: Will the av led now work? Does it need a second resistor on the blue positive lead?
    Question: Will the second led (5w led) only work when the saber is activated? This is what i want it to do.

    So how does it look?

    PC diagram FINAL 2.jpg
    Last edited by FireBlaze97; 09-23-2012 at 04:30 PM.

  2. #12

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    Quote Originally Posted by FireBlaze97 View Post
    ok i revised it

    Question: Will the av led now work? Does it need a second resistor on the blue positive lead?
    Question: Will the second led (5w led) only work when the saber is activated? This is what i want it to do.

    So how does it look?

    PC diagram FINAL 2.jpg
    For the AV switch, the resistor goes on the pink, not the brown line.
    For the LED, the BLACK line goes to GND, NOT #2
    If you want the LED to work when you pull the kill key, that positive should go to the 3.3V pad, and the AV positive should go to pad #1. You will also have to adjust the leds.txt file to make sure that that LED stays on all the time.
    Last edited by Forgetful Jedi Knight; 09-23-2012 at 05:32 PM.
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    "Yeah, yeah, I've heard it all before... you want blindingly bright, super loud, running 1138 blinkies off of the cheapest sound card you can find AND you want all of it to run on a battery the size of a dime, and run for a very, VERY long time. That one cracks me up every time..."
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  3. #13

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    Quote Originally Posted by forgetful jedi knight View Post
    For the AV switch, the resistor goes on the pink, not the brown line.
    For the LED, the BLACK line goes to GND, NOT #2
    If you want the LED to work when you pull the kill key, that positive should go to the 3.3V pad, and the AV positive should go to pad #1. You will also have to adjust the leds.txt file to make sure that that LED stays on all the time.
    Ok something im not getting, I want the av led to turn on when the saber kill key is pulled and i want the 2nd led to power only when the saber is ignited. I dont want that (5w) led to do anything else but ignite when i push the (AV) button.
    Last edited by FireBlaze97; 09-23-2012 at 06:46 PM.

  4. #14

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    Ah, The way you wrote it in your earlier posts, it sounded like you wanted it the other way.

    "Again the internal led i want to light when the saber's kill ket is activated. (unlike the av switch)"

    Ok, you can ignore the last line then.
    Last edited by Forgetful Jedi Knight; 09-23-2012 at 06:54 PM.
    TCSS MODERATOR
    All n00bs READ these first (PLEASE)!!!:
    1. Forum Guidelines
    2. FJK’s “Down and Dirty” guide to Ohm’s Law

    "Yeah, yeah, I've heard it all before... you want blindingly bright, super loud, running 1138 blinkies off of the cheapest sound card you can find AND you want all of it to run on a battery the size of a dime, and run for a very, VERY long time. That one cracks me up every time..."
    My email: fjk_tcss@yahoo.com

  5. #15

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    Yea i didnt relize i said that but yea so the wiring diagram is correct with those few corrections, i still need to find a resistor for the amber led, this is the led im getting http://www.weisd.com/test/WEISD_TBL_...=LINB4302F3-5V
    and this is the edited diagram
    PC diagram FINAL3.jpg

    Now with FOC you need a different type of led right (i think this is why im not doing for)

    How would i hookup a led for a low batt indicator?
    Last edited by FireBlaze97; 09-23-2012 at 07:05 PM.

  6. #16

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    Quote Originally Posted by FireBlaze97 View Post
    Yea i didnt relize i said that but yea so the wiring diagram is correct with those few corrections, i still need to find a resistor for the amber led, this is the led im getting http://www.weisd.com/test/WEISD_TBL_...=LINB4302F3-5V
    and this is the edited diagram
    PC diagram FINAL3.jpg

    Now with FOC you need a different type of led right (i think this is why im not doing for)

    How would i hookup a led for a low batt indicator?
    I double checked and that's not something that can be done with a PC 2.0. Sorry.

    Yes, you would need a multi-die LED (probably with different colors) to do FoC.

    The wiring diagram looks good now. You just have to reverse the Aux and Main activation wires (yellow and orange).

    Also, that LED won't work with LED accent pads, since the pads only put out 3.3V and that takes 5V
    Last edited by Forgetful Jedi Knight; 09-23-2012 at 08:04 PM.
    TCSS MODERATOR
    All n00bs READ these first (PLEASE)!!!:
    1. Forum Guidelines
    2. FJK’s “Down and Dirty” guide to Ohm’s Law

    "Yeah, yeah, I've heard it all before... you want blindingly bright, super loud, running 1138 blinkies off of the cheapest sound card you can find AND you want all of it to run on a battery the size of a dime, and run for a very, VERY long time. That one cracks me up every time..."
    My email: fjk_tcss@yahoo.com

  7. #17

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    Quote Originally Posted by FireBlaze97 View Post
    Yea i didnt relize i said that but yea so the wiring diagram is correct with those few corrections, i still need to find a resistor for the amber led, this is the led im getting http://www.weisd.com/test/WEISD_TBL_...=LINB4302F3-5V
    and this is the edited diagram
    PC diagram FINAL3.jpg

    Now with FOC you need a different type of led right (i think this is why im not doing for)

    How would i hookup a led for a low batt indicator?
    your blaster/lock up switch positive is on the wrong pad...if you wire it up like that, you'll press that button to activate the saber. The main switch is the first pad from the left in that picture, the aux + is the middle pad, then the shared ground is on the right.

    and FJK is correct, the PC 2.0 has no provisions for a low battery indicator, nor a PLI setting. Those features are usually found on higher-end sound boards like the Crystal Focus. Are you planning on using one 3.7v 18500 to power this set up? If so, you may be disappointed in the volume level...the PC 2.0 is designed to work with a 7.4v battery solution.

    Got a question? Start Here. Have you tried the Thread Index yet? Most questions can be answered there.

  8. #18

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    He's going to use a 7.4V pack.
    TCSS MODERATOR
    All n00bs READ these first (PLEASE)!!!:
    1. Forum Guidelines
    2. FJK’s “Down and Dirty” guide to Ohm’s Law

    "Yeah, yeah, I've heard it all before... you want blindingly bright, super loud, running 1138 blinkies off of the cheapest sound card you can find AND you want all of it to run on a battery the size of a dime, and run for a very, VERY long time. That one cracks me up every time..."
    My email: fjk_tcss@yahoo.com

  9. #19

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    Quote Originally Posted by forgetful jedi knight View Post
    He's going to use a 7.4V pack.
    Yup i will correct the diagram, now i cant find a 3.3v amber led, any suggestions to where i can look?
    Last edited by FireBlaze97; 09-23-2012 at 08:54 PM.

  10. #20

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    Quote Originally Posted by FireBlaze97 View Post
    Yup i will correct the diagram, now i cant find a 3.3v amber led, any suggestions to where i can look?
    You mean this?

    http://ca.mouser.com/ProductDetail/C...r2hlSnZSx65h4C

    Voltage typically varies by the color of the LED. Reds and ambers are lower (around 2.1 - 2.3) where Blues and Greens are in the 3.2 - 3.4 range. That should do nicely for you, or you could visit your local Radio Shack If you live in the United States.
    TCSS MODERATOR
    All n00bs READ these first (PLEASE)!!!:
    1. Forum Guidelines
    2. FJK’s “Down and Dirty” guide to Ohm’s Law

    "Yeah, yeah, I've heard it all before... you want blindingly bright, super loud, running 1138 blinkies off of the cheapest sound card you can find AND you want all of it to run on a battery the size of a dime, and run for a very, VERY long time. That one cracks me up every time..."
    My email: fjk_tcss@yahoo.com

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