many (many) of the bigger smiths use that exact same gun... although cheap in price.. I wouldnt call it a 'cheap gun' (per se`)
I'll throw in a few more tips as well...
1). your BASE is the most important..
meaning the condition your part is in will dictate your results (more or less).. this is not as MUCH true for black or dark/solid colors.. but lighter colors, chromes and trans colors will all reveal those nasty little defects!
2.) do not OVER SPRAY.. or be too close.. this will give you that 'orange peel' look
3.) invest in some PC dissolver from Eastwood.. or a couple cans of aircraft stripper.. (to remove PC that has been FUBAR'd).. dropping, bumping, bad misting, bare spots..etc..etc... it happens to everyone
4.) nice resource (for me) are: lots of high temp tape (different thickness).. lots of aluminum foil.. is conductive 'and' helps cover large area for masking.
5.) sand, polish, BABY any part that is getting a trans color.. you may even want to attempt hot flocking or double coating trans parts.. as I found some times it 'peels/bleed' away form sharper edges..leaving a lighter color.
6.) Buy multiple empty jars/bottles for your gun.. this make not only store by switching colors much easier.
7.) If your guns permit differnt voltage levels.. (I dont think the craftsmans do).. if your part has many intricate details and grooves..etc..etc.. turn DOWN the voltage. having it up to high can create or add to what is called the faraday (cage) effect (sp?).. meaning there is so much voltage/electrostatic charge going on.. that it is pulled away from those detailed places.. (cant adhere as much as its pulled to over, bigger surfaces..etc)
sometimes different tips, lower voltage (and other things) can help eliminate that so its not a problem.
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