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Thread: First MHS Saber Build, Need Verification of my Parts List

  1. #1

    Default First MHS Saber Build, Need Verification of my Parts List

    I plan on making my first MHS saber soon. This saber is just going to be a stunt saber for now, but then eventually I plan on adding sound. For now this saber is going to be pretty basic, with an Illuminated AV Switch and Recharge Port. Can someone go through my parts list and make sure I have everything to make this work and be a complete build? I would really appreciate it! And let me know if you recommend anything else or to add something to my list. Thanks!

    BTW, I already have the LED I want to use. Rebel Star Bin 1 Cyan. And the reason I have so many JST connectors is because I plan on having everything connected with the JST wires, so that when I buy my MWS Pre-Wired PC Sound Board, I can just basically drop it in and be done.

    Hilt:
    4” Double Female Grooved Without Holes
    MHS Blank Extension Style 1
    MHS Choke Style 1 Short
    Screw On LED Blade Holder Style 9
    MPS Pommel Style 4
    MPS Insert Style 4
    MPS Clip
    Activation Box Style 9
    8-32 x 1/8” Set Screw (for blade retention)

    Blade:
    LED “TCSS Style” Show Blade 1” OD (32 Inches)

    Services:
    Drill & Tap Hole (8-32) (for Blade set screw)
    Box 9, 10, and 17 Mounting Holes Service

    LED:
    MHS “New Style” Heat Sink V2
    Collimator Lens 8.7 Deg Viewing Angle
    Luxeon Rebel Lens Holder
    Star Thermal Tape Pad

    Electronics:
    MWS BuckPuck (1000mA)
    16mm Anti-Vandal Latching Blue Ring Switch
    7.4v Li-Ion 800mAh 14500 Battery Pack
    2.1mm Power Jack
    JST Connectors (7)
    220ohm 1/4w Resistor (for switch LED)

    Misc:
    Kill Plug Style 5
    1” Hilt Safety Plug (Trans White)
    3.7v-14.8v Li-Ion Smart Charger
    Tamiya to JST Charger Adapter
    Last edited by PeDDeR27; 11-13-2012 at 09:34 PM.

  2. #2

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    the only thing i can think of is that if you plan to upgrade to a PC you wont have a hole for the aux switch.

  3. #3

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    Looks like you've done your homework. I don't see anything missing.

    I agree with clahey though. If you're planning on adding a PC later on, you can always use a different activation box (Style 19, Style 11, etc.) and put a switch in the extra hole. You just won't wire up the second switch until you get the PC.
    We all have to start somewhere. The journey is all the more impressive by our humble beginnings.

    http://led.linear1.org/1led.wiz for the lazy man's resistor calculator!
    http://forums.thecustomsabershop.com...e-to-Ohm-s-Law for getting resistor values the right way!

  4. #4

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    Yea, I have been doing my homework, haha.

    When I get the PC Soundboard, I also plan on just purchasing another MHS Blank Extension Style 1, an Activation Box Style 11 (along with the Hole Service), and a 16mm Anti-Vandal Momentary Blue Dot Switch.
    Last edited by PeDDeR27; 11-13-2012 at 06:38 PM.

  5. #5

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    You may want to be prepared to solder regular wires in place of the JST connecters in case space becomes an issue. If so, go for the higher gauge skinny wires and heatshrink. I still start off with more JSTs then I can fit and end up removing some of them.

  6. #6

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    Yea, I have a feeling I will be doing that, haha.

  7. #7

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    JSTs are small, you wouldn't think they'd take up so much space...but they do. Especially in large numbers. I've run into that issue myself.
    We all have to start somewhere. The journey is all the more impressive by our humble beginnings.

    http://led.linear1.org/1led.wiz for the lazy man's resistor calculator!
    http://forums.thecustomsabershop.com...e-to-Ohm-s-Law for getting resistor values the right way!

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