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Thread: Hilt Design and Basic Idea Work

  1. #11

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    The Petit Crouton (Why do I sound like a Frenchman saying that?) sounds like my best bet, for right now. I think I'll go with that and Lithium Ion batteries. That means I need a hole drilled into my pommel.

    Can I get accents in colors other than red and green? If not, I think I'll just skip them.

    Damn, how much brightness is sacrificed with the color disks? A White P4 and color disks? I think that'll be my best option. If I use multiple disks (I've seen some people do this) will I be able to get some of the brightness back? Also, yes, I intend to hit people with this - is there any risk of the pieces of the hilt being damaged or the disks from dislocating? I don't quite know the quality of the aluminum. You guys don't brag about it.

    With the French soundboard (pardon me, Petit Crouton... my masculinity is leaving so fast...) what kind switch will I need? Momentary or Latching? I figure it'll be easier to just choose from the selection now.

    I don't know how your blades stand up to the ones I'm used to, but you seem pretty happy with them. I use UltraEdge Heavy Grade blades from UltraSaber and I few extra lying around. My friend has a broken wrist and I have a bum knee to prove their quality. If this isn't deliciously painful, I'm not sure they'll hold up to my aggressiveness.

  2. #12

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    Yea, the Petit Crouton is an awesome soundboard... and yes, it is made in france by a frenchman

    Now, that you picked your soundcard, you need to know that that specific card requires two switches to operate, one to turn it on and off and the other to access the cards features like blade lockup, blaster interception, and force powers. You HAVE to have 2 switches... no if ands or buts about it. That means it might be best to use a different Activation box. This one would do nice and still keep the saber looking sharp...

    http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/Ac...le-2-P355.aspx

    This box comes with the holes for both switches and a recharge port... so no need to put it in the pummel or on the hilt body itself.

    As for the LED, if your going to use colordisks to achieve a color... yellow would be the best, but anytime you use colordisks it blocks some of the light. the darker the color, the more light is blocked. So for example...

    If you had a 30inch blade and a white P$ with a yellow color disk, the light might not reach the tip of the blade and some of the blade would look very dim. If you just used the plain white LED with no disk... it would reach the full blade. A shorter blade might negate the downsides of using colordisks... or if your not happy with how the color effects your blade after you make the saber, you can always install a different colored LED like Red, Blue, Green, or plain White/Silver.

  3. #13

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    I ordered the color disks a few years back, along with a 40" white polycarbonate blade. Using just an cheap LED flashlight and a single color disk, I colored the blade all the way to the end, and it was nice even color. Now, this is, of course, without any optics other than the flashlight lens (which wasn't actually focusing anything), and the brightness wasn't anywhere near what my current build (Rebel Green) is, but you shouldn't have any trouble getting the blade to be fully lit. How bright it is...that might be a different problem to work out. As for the disks coming loose and damaging things, it's very very doubtful. If you sandwich it properly between the base of your blade and your blade holder, you shouldn't have a problem. Even if they do come loose, it's just a very small, very thin piece of plastic.

    Also, there's always the option of going with a LEDEngin multi-die LED for your yellow blade, but that's getting super complicated.
    "Bacon and cheese>squeezed lemon." - FenderBender
    "But, ya know...rules are made to be broken." - Yoshi-Taka
    LDM's Recipe For Noobs. Totally Worth The Read.

  4. #14

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    So nihm's can be used for Petit Crouton. That answers my question. Thanks. What would be a good way to make the two batts in a pack? Like whats the kind of wrapping TCSS used on the li-ion packs?
    "Your move!" -Obi-wan kenobi-

  5. #15

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    For assembling your own packs, see these threads: http://forums.thecustomsabershop.com...ry-Pack-Making and http://forums.thecustomsabershop.com...-Battery-Packs

    You don't use a PCB with NiMH, but the rest of the information is applicable. PVC heatshrink is what you use to hold the battery packs together. Online battery supply stores often carry it.
    We all have to start somewhere. The journey is all the more impressive by our humble beginnings.

    http://led.linear1.org/1led.wiz for the lazy man's resistor calculator!
    http://forums.thecustomsabershop.com...e-to-Ohm-s-Law for getting resistor values the right way!

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